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I have been thinking and wishing about turning my garage into a studio.

What would your dream studio look like?

Besides natural light what kind of light fixtures would it have for the best light?

Cant have too many electric outlets, where would you place them? Hate tripping over all those cords!

what kind of shelves would you put in it? Cabinets with doors to hide clutter or easy reach shelves?

What color would you paint it or would you leave it au natural ?

Tables glaze buckets.............too many options.........

Trying to keep cost down, but would like it to be functional and cozy.

Also, the kiln would still be located in the barn. Can't have everything!

 

Juli

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I have been thinking and wishing about turning my garage into a studio.

What would your dream studio look like?

 

 

Besides natural light what kind of light fixtures would it have for the best light?

 

 

Given that glazes don't look like what they fire too, I don't see the need for natural light. I'd just be happy with enough lighting to keep the place lit up.

 

Something I could aim at my work would be useful - a "spotlight" at the wheel, another at the glazing area. Cheapy clamp-lamps with CFL bulbs would be good enough for me.

 

Cant have too many electric outlets, where would you place them? Hate tripping over all those cords!

 

No brainer, hanging outlets! They're on reels so you can pull them down as needed, reel them back up to keep them out of the way. No trippage!

 

what kind of shelves would you put in it? Cabinets with doors to hide clutter or easy reach shelves?

 

Also no brainer, easy reach. Not too deep, I don't like having to shuffle to get at stuff. No point in making them too high as I am not, and I'd rather not have to be hauling a step ladder out to get at things I use regularly.

 

What color would you paint it or would you leave it au natural ?

 

I'd probably just paint it boring white, as that reflects the maximum amount of light and makes an area look brighter and larger.

 

Tables glaze buckets.............too many options.........

 

 

  1. Clay reclaim area - drying area, one pad for white clays and one for reds. Space for reclaim buckets.
  2. Sink set up to keep clay out of the drains. Wouldn't have to have running water as long as I could run water TO it, say via a hose, as needed. Something like this would suit me better than something like this simply because it would be hard for me, given my physical limitations, to haul those containers out to clean the trap in the latter setup. The supply line on that would be fine; but I'd rather have it plumbed into a drain.
  3. Wire wedging station (with permanently mounted wire), with portable hardibacker wedging boards, one for white clay and one for red. This way I could take 'em outside and hose 'em off once in awhile.
  4. Table I can walk around, no more than 2.5 feet deep, as a work area. Maybe even 2 of these, if I'm dreaming.
  5. Wheel throwing area - a stand nearby with movable ware boards that I could fill from the wheel, then just pick up and move the whole shelf to longer term storage/drying area. So all the shelves would be the same size so I could rotate the ware boards around. Given I'm short shrimpy and weak, probably no more than 3' long. Hmmm, now that I think of it, better yet, a cart type of thing so I could just wheel it over and unload it at the shelves.
  6. Storage area for bats where I could easily set them on edge and keep them separated, so they won't warp.
  7. Gotta have heat AND AC. I would insulate, walls and ceiling. A garage area could probably be heated adequately with one or two oil-filled radiators, assuming you're not living in Wyoming or something and we're not talking Bill Gates' garage. They're super cheap to operate. Would leave it unheated when not working, or at least turned way down. They should have the auto-heat thing that keeps the oil from freezing when turned off (but still plugged in).
  8. Hmmm, bookshelves for my clay books.
  9. Desk for working on designs and doing paperwork. Also for kicking back and taking a break.

 

Trying to keep cost down, but would like it to be functional and cozy.

Also, the kiln would still be located in the barn. Can't have everything!

 

Oh, no, we're dreaming here! I want my kiln in my work area! Or at least nearby. At least a covered patio out the back door from the garage.

 

I'm sure there are lots of other things I should consider, but given my current setup - a 3x5 area in an unheated pantry - this would be a big improvement for me.

 

 

EDIT: Now that I think of it, it would have to be reliable heated to at least 40F. I don't want my clays and glazes to freeze! I'm not sure I'd want to do that with electric heaters, so maybe a small wall heater that would be used to maintain the temp several degrees above freezing. I could continue to rely on oil filled radiators for warming it up to comfort level when working - they're just way more efficient. If I had the Benjamins I'd like in-floor radiant heat, but then you'd be talking laying a floor over the slab, including insulation, which is tough to do if you're retrofitting. The best way to do in-floor radiant heat is to build an insulated slab, and nobody insulates the slab in a garage.

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I built a studio 5 years ago, it's part of a large garage but is separated by a wall with a window and door. I wanted to be able to see into my husbands shop for safety reasons and I can open the window and visit with him. My electrical outlets are about 4 feet off the floor I have lots of florescent lighting and 3 windows in the main room one in the kiln room. I painted and wall papered the entire place, the vinyl wallpaper is in areas where I splash clay a lot, it cleans the best. You should paint it a color that makes you feel comfortable and want to stay in that area for a long period of time. I have 3 work tables, one that I can walk around, 3 plastic shelving unit with waffle and solid shelves 10 feet tall. I put stuff up high and low that I don't use much the area in between is for work in progress. Two metal shelving units store chemical for making glazes, I also have a kick wheel and large slab roller that can double as another work table and a L shape counter with a deep double sink with a clay settling system. I have most of the 5 gal buckets and bags of clay stored under tables the studio is insulated, but has insufficent heating and air. A fan in the summer and a little heater in the winter takes care of that, I'm using a plastic utility cabinet for a drying cabinet, the shelves are adjustable and it dries everything evenly and slowly. Your studio set up will have a lot to do with what type and size of work you do, I tend to work larger with slabs. I hope I was of some help there is a lot to consider and remember when you actually start putting you studio together. Denice

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I visited several sweat shops one of them had a very good wiring set up, all of the outlets were on the walls above the work benches and located all around the room. Another had outlets dropping down from the ceiling it was unsightly, and another had the outlets in the floor which is dangerous for a potter. If you are fortunate to have raw space to work with get some graph paper and lay out your studio. One important item we never have enough of is shelving; over do it with the shelves.

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Sojoumer, Denice, Lucille, Thanks for the great ideas and input! I tend to over think things and really want to get this right.

Im sure I will change my mind a dozen times before its over. Its the small details that I need to figure out. Fluorescent lighting or

regular lighting? I don't know. I am so used to just opening the garage door, and now I have to think about clay dust in an enclosed room.

Hose down the garage, now I will have to mop. Denice, double sinks sound wonderful, better than the outside faucet. Lucille, I do want to

have plenty of shelves, just don't know if I need permanent ones or removable ones. Sojoumer, a 3x5 unheated pantry is a visual to say the least!

Yes, heated concrete floors would be the ultimate!!

Wish there were 1000's of pictures on the web to get inspiration from, and to visualize how to change the garage so it doesn't look like a remodel.

Juli

 

 

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If you opt for putting in a sink, make sure you include a trap for the clay.

Here's a video for another way to handle it:

 

 

Since the humidity in your garage might vary greatly from winter to summer, also consider having at least one set of your shelves be a "damp area" ::

 

 

There's a whole series of Expert Village videos on studio setup tips.

 

BTW: I'm jealous!

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I have been thinking and wishing about turning my garage into a studio.

What would your dream studio look like?

Besides natural light what kind of light fixtures would it have for the best light?

Cant have too many electric outlets, where would you place them? Hate tripping over all those cords!

what kind of shelves would you put in it? Cabinets with doors to hide clutter or easy reach shelves?

What color would you paint it or would you leave it au natural ?

Tables glaze buckets.............too many options.........

Trying to keep cost down, but would like it to be functional and cozy.

Also, the kiln would still be located in the barn. Can't have everything!

 

Juli

 

 

As much as I like a lot of the ideas here, I would go a little further in some aspects. I would like to separate the clay area from the glazing area. Construction, throwing, clay reclaiming and storage in one area. Glazes, glaze materials, glazing area, greenware shelves and bisqueware shelves mid way between the kilns and glazing areas-probably on carts. I would also like to have areas matted where I would be standing working alot like in glazing. Good vacuum clean up for all areas, and hose-able floors. Windows? I would definitely like to have windows in the studio as I taught for 30 years in a room without windows or any natural light-you miss it. Other lighting would be florescent in the natural light range. mini spots in special areas like potters wheel and glazing areas. I would be careful with lighting the wheel too much, as I depend on shadows at times when I throw and shape a form.

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my studio is 22x22 for working with clay. kilns are in their own building. I have as much as possible on wheels including pug mill, carts, glaze buckets, clay storage containers which roll under large Formica topped work tables. my wheel sits in front o a window with a nice view.Two shelving systems are on wheels and two are not. my spraying set up is outside...I live in the tropics so spraying outdoors can be done year round.My kilns have their own meter to the kiln shed ..there is a huge oval kiln, an intermediate size electric , my 1.5 cu ft test kiln and two raku kilns.

my solder mixer is in the garage. I have three large plaster drying bats about 24x30 I use for recycling and making paper clay. I have a 30" wide slab roller with a cart the same height as the slab roller and a plaster wedging table next to my wheel. there is a low cart on the other side of my wheel for placing pots as I throw them. I also have a cool cabinet from an old dept store that has shelves and I put it on wheels. wheels make the space very versatile.My glaze chemicals are in drawers or in buckets on wheels. bags are outside under tarps. I also have a ball mill on the sun porch and another cabinet and cart out there for working in cooler weather.

marcia

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Guest HerbNorriss

My 'garagio' is about 20'x22', and now that it has insulation, my stereo, some other niceties, what do I wish for?

HEAT!

I have worked out here when it is -8F, and my propane heater can get it up to a balmy 42F! When the temp goes below 45F, those electric heaters can't cut it. They raise the temp only a degree or two if you're lucky.

Anyway, I would like to get the temp up to around 70F or so, so have been eyeing a wood stove type heater. I guess that's my wish list item.

Believe it or not, I can still get my two cars in here, with some judicious stacking of things.

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I totally agree about putting things on wheels. Also suggest putting shelves underneath your work tables to store things like slump molds. I have a small commercial sink trap (can't remember the name...bought at Bracker's) which I do not recommend because it doesn't work very well. If I had it to do over again I'd get a floor drain too. I painted my space a cheery yellow, but once the walls filled up with shelves and posters it really doesn't show. I store my glaze chemicals in kitty litter buckets. The kind with the attached lid that opens on one side. They stack so neatly. I got mine at recycling centers and from friends. Plan on plenty of space for storing glazes and glaze tests.

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Many great idea here. I have as many things on rollers as possible. No amount of shelving is enough, just added 2 more. I like wire racks for drying shelves, more even air all around.

 

Herb, I feel your pain, just added more insulation to my glaze room, The only thing I can think of for you would be to add some sort of flooring, mats or linoleum, it could be that the ground is so cold that you can't warm up the room. I have a Mr. Heater 1 head propane that will run me out, but I'm not so far north as you.

How do you keep clay from freezing? Do you keep it heated 24/7? I don't do that and it is my 1 wish for my studio, that I could afford to keep it tolerable all the time so I could go out there any time with out planning and turning on heat or cooling.

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Many great idea here. I have as many things on rollers as possible. No amount of shelving is enough, just added 2 more. I like wire racks for drying shelves, more even air all around.

 

Herb, I feel your pain, just added more insulation to my glaze room, The only thing I can think of for you would be to add some sort of flooring, mats or linoleum, it could be that the ground is so cold that you can't warm up the room. I have a Mr. Heater 1 head propane that will run me out, but I'm not so far north as you.

How do you keep clay from freezing? Do you keep it heated 24/7? I don't do that and it is my 1 wish for my studio, that I could afford to keep it tolerable all the time so I could go out there any time with out planning and turning on heat or cooling.

 

 

Why does everyone worry about freezing the clay? I have found that I like the clay after it has frozen and rethawed. Much of the water gets driven to the outside, and I can use stiffer clay if I want in this way. Also I like my slop to freeze up once it is really slaked down. I then take it out of the bag it was in and let it thaw where the excess water will drain off. then wedge it. Works well. Hurry it along by putting it in a pillow case and hang it to thaw.

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Guest HerbNorriss

Adding some floor covering might help, I don't know, but then, it might keep the garage from being as warm as it is during early winter, when it helps to radiate the heat still in the earth from the summer. I'll figure something out.

 

As a slight diversion from this topic, I find that I agree with Pres about frozen clay, it has a tremendous plasticity when you thaw it out and wedge it. The only problem with the clay freezing is, it is not available when you want to work! So I get around that by bringing my clay and glazes into the house from December to April. It's a pain, but ceramics demands some sacrifices, doesn't it?

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Why does everyone worry about freezing the clay? I have found that I like the clay after it has frozen and rethawed. Much of the water gets driven to the outside, and I can use stiffer clay if I want in this way. Also I like my slop to freeze up once it is really slaked down. I then take it out of the bag it was in and let it thaw where the excess water will drain off. then wedge it. Works well. Hurry it along by putting it in a pillow case and hang it to thaw.

 

 

Well because I've been repeatedly told that freezing clay "ruins it", in the sense that when it freezes it sort of "curdles" - you get separation of the clay body and the water, and you have to put it through a pug mill or treat it like reclaim after it's frozen.

 

I don't mind reclaiming my actual reclaim, but the idea of having to wire wedge a ton of clay because of repeated freeze/thaw cycles is daunting to say the least. (I do not have nor can I imagine ever having a pug mill).

 

Plus, what about stuff on the drying racks? Couldn't freezing of still wet greenware cause cracking and flaking? Couldn't it cause problems with separation of the underlying clay and slips or slip decoration that's been applied?

 

Or is all of that just a clay myth?

 

And even if that turns out to be a myth, wouldn't it STILL be a bad thing to have your slips, glazes, etc freeze and thaw repeatedly?

 

And then there's the problem of not being able to work frozen clay. And no, I do NOT want to have to haul 25lb blocks of frozen clay into the house and wait for it to thaw. Nor have to transport the clay I'm working on back and forth between a workshop, if I had one, and where ever I'm supposed to store it in the house. Now you're tracking dust through the house, as well as the added burden of physically dragging all that stuff back and forth. Because it isn't just the clay, its also the glazes and all the other stuff I would need unfrozen to get any work done.

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Mother Nature has been freezing/thawing our clay for millions of years . . . without any "damage" and, as Herb notes, actually improves it over time. The Chinese and others would bury porcelain and other clay bodies in ground pits for the next generation of potters. No, freezing clay will not ruin it.

 

When I was toting clay to/from classes, my instructors cautioned about leaving the clay in the car during winter where it could freeze and not be thawed for the next class. I think folks take that admonition and extend it to any freezing of clay. No, I don't like/recommend throwing or hand-building with frozen/nearly frozen clay. Just no fun.

 

 

Slips and glazes are another issue; those you do not want to freeze, nor your greenware. So, you'll want to keep your studio temperature above freezing . . . I generally shoot for around 40F during winter in my garage where I work and store clay, glazes, slips, etc; then turn the temperature up when working. My garage heater in an overhead-mounted 5000w Farenheat with fan; it also has a separate wall-mounted thermostat. Considered the wall heaters/floor-board heaters but questioned if they could produce enough heat for a garage work area that was poorly insulated.

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I totally agree about putting things on wheels. Also suggest putting shelves underneath your work tables to store things like slump molds. I have a small commercial sink trap (can't remember the name...bought at Bracker's) which I do not recommend because it doesn't work very well. If I had it to do over again I'd get a floor drain too. I painted my space a cheery yellow, but once the walls filled up with shelves and posters it really doesn't show. I store my glaze chemicals in kitty litter buckets. The kind with the attached lid that opens on one side. They stack so neatly. I got mine at recycling centers and from friends. Plan on plenty of space for storing glazes and glaze tests.

 

 

Just a note on putting stuff on wheels. I had the chance to get some cheap ( on sale with rebate) four foot scaffold that you use to remodle with. you can put shelving on all three layers for pots. they roll out of the way when not needed. they break down if you want to use them for shelves at a show and are easy to haul. they are great for remodleing too. they were less than 40.00 bucks on sale. less than building rolling shelves if you figure in any time at all. happy firing kabe

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Mother Nature has been freezing/thawing our clay for millions of years . . . without any "damage" and, as Herb notes, actually improves it over time. The Chinese and others would bury porcelain and other clay bodies in ground pits for the next generation of potters. No, freezing clay will not ruin it.

 

 

Not permanently "ruins" it, but messes it up so you'd have to wedge it, is all. I can't imagine anything short of actually firing it would "ruin" clay.

 

Well, or mixing stuff into it that would mess up it's firing qualities, but that's not what we're talking about here.

 

But that's fine, it's just what "real" potters keep telling me. Besides, it's sort of moot, given that it's still true that you need to keep your greenware etc from freezing.

 

If I had a separate workshop, 40F is what I would aim for as a kind of "holding" temp. Should be high enough to protect from sudden dips in the temp that would overtax the heater in the workshop, but not so high that it'll cost an arm and a leg to heat.

 

Assuming you're not in Nebraska or Alaska or something, that is.

 

I want a Geopod for my workshop, but it's unlikely to happen now as I am no longer capable of doing my own construction anymore. *sigh*

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I have a really nice studio, but the one thing I would wish for is a sink in the studio. I have a wash basin outside across the patio. It is somewhat inconvenient. When I moved to South Texas 6 years ago, I enclosed a brick carport separated from the house by the two car garage.

I built a 19 x 12 cinderblock shed for the kilns. That is far enough from the house for insurance purposes.

I suppose I have become a water miser due to this lack of plumbing. Maybe that is a good thing living through droughts. .

Marcia

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I'm in commercial lighting. There are many types of lighting fixtures. I would stick with fluorescent lights. The energy consumption and life is great. Go for the 4' T8 fixtures. Unless you want to get them at an electrical distributor I'm guessing you'll get them at the local home store. The only thing I would stress is the lamp quality. Fluorescent lighting sometimes gets a bad rap and it's related to cheap lamps. Go to an electrical distributor or lighting showroom, Get the Osram Sylvania T8 XP 835 series. Someone might try to sell you the 735 series but the color rendering (cri) isn't that great. 835 is better. He color temperature is up to you. The "35" in the number is 3500k, which works for most. If you like it cooler looking go for he 4100k.

 

Other than that....daylight is the best, but watch the glare. I open the garage door, but the glare off the pavement or windshields can mess with me when glazing.

 

Good luck.

Marc Mc

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Six years ago I took the plunge and had a local family team create studio space from an unfinished 2 car garage with vaulted ceilings and so forth which is attached to my home. Because some of the windows had "failed" and become foggy with moisture I had new windows put in and a lovely big one placed quite low down in front of my wheel, so that I can gaze out to the south to the secluded front yard. I had the garage company cut several courses of windows in the garage door to get that north light. I also had strip lighting mounted vertically on either side of the wheel with 4 adjustable spots I can tweak for optimum shadow, as John Baymore mentions. Lighting over the kilns area, and lighting over sink, drain board. Lighting over the clay prep area too. The first week I took possession of house in 2004 (just arrived from UK where I had to sell on everything that plugged in and start a new workshop studio) I made appointments with qualified electrician to upgrade the wiring to the studio and to the main panel and place another panel in studio, and place wall plugs for kilns; and the plumber put in a utility sink. I built a spray booth this summer, and last week installed a VPM-9 Peter Pugger to preserve my -- 70 next week -- wrists. Lots of things on wheels, finally have the shelving for raw materials sorted out. I should make an up-against-the house bunker for clay storage to free up some space. That's next. Ordered leg extensions for my Thomas Stuart as I think it's time to get off my backside! Studios take some care and reflection. I also heartily recommend rubber matts placed along the areas you mostly stand. Big box stores and Farmer's Supply places sell them. Easily shifted about when you wet mop. Always happy to talk "shop" literally and figuratively. Ware board trolley or some sort of system to the side of your wheel is a must. I mostly throw on batts of varying sizes if the work is large. If you have to share a space, that's a different kettle of fish as they say. Happy New Year.

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I hope one day every one gets whats on their dream list!

Mark, I will write the info down and take it to my elec. showroom. Glad to know its fluorescent lighting I need.

Dinah, Marcia,Kabe and everyone else, appreciate the information on the rubber mats, sinks, wheels, shadows, heaters, ware-boards, the list

goes on; just the kind of knowledge I need to make good decisions

Juli

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While we're discussing 'dream' studios, I would add an area with a photo cube set up to take good pictures for posting on websites and making postcards and an area for packing pottery for shipment to galleries or customers. rolleyes.gif

 

 

 

Ohhhh ya now that is a really good idea! Just what I need.....Trina

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heat in the winter depending on where you are!! I have a huge garage that is horrible to heat. My studio is in "My half" This winter my husband hung some very thick plastic and walled me off! That has worked great! I have 2 electric heaters and a kerosene heater and have acheived temps to 80! My sink is also outside around back which is cold in the winter but I amso happy to have a studio I am making due. It was too much hassel to put one inside where we are. I have a very large garage door on the back side of my area that opens into the back yard......It was a drive thru garage at one time that could hold three cars. So in the summer I open that up and get to look out at the marsh/water behind our house. I have a paint spray booth large glazing table on wheels. large working weding table and never enough shelves! Good Luck

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  • 4 weeks later...

The space for the photo cube is now on my list! Thanks for noting that one!!!!

 

Regarding heat, depending on where you live if you have running water you'd need heat to keep the pipes from freezing, right? I know we'd need that here! Plus don't you want to be comfortable when working in the studio? I'd want heat and AC!!!!

 

I think someone mentioned having things on wheels, I'd do that with anything possible. I don't have that now but wish I did every time I do a deap cleaning, would make things so much easier! Oh, but make sure they are the kind of wheels you can lock to keep from rolling when you don't need them to!

 

Whatever you do, leave extra space for that peice of equipment you don't know that you need/want yet or discover you forgot to include :-)

 

 

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