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PeerieMoose

Do I Fix My Damaged Sculpture Before Or After Firing?

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PeerieMoose    2

3 weeks ago, I started the drying process for this sculpture:

 

post-86678-0-94485500-1503097158_thumb.jpg

 

It was all going well, no cracks, nothing falling off...until today.

I was changing the paper under it and when I put it down, I snapped the fingers off the hand under it's head..  :(

 

Would it be better to fix it before firing it.... or should I fire it and then fix it?

 

Either way, how would I go about doing that?

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Babs    386

Search spooze in the forums, works a treat, clayy. Vinegar. And clay 1/3rd of each.tissue paper can be added as a strengthener.

Peggy's spooze search will get it to you.

Good luck.

Peope have used this for handles fixiing, great stuff

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Marcia Selsor    1,301

I wood fix it before firing. Spooze works great. If you need to do it again, it shouldn't be as bad. But re bisque if you need to repair after the bisque before firing higher with a glaze.

Marcia

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Marcia Selsor    1,301

drying time is all relevant to your environment.If your piece is already bone dry, it should not take long depending on how much needs to be filled.

 

Marcia

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PeerieMoose    2

drying time is all relevant to your environment.If your piece is already bone dry, it should not take long depending on how much needs to be filled.

 

Marcia

Okay, Thank you 

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Benzine    610

Great sculpture!

 

Spooze works great.  I always have a big batch mixed up, ready for my students.  I go through quite a bit in my classes...  I have also combined the use of that, with Magic Water, as a little extra insurance, as the latter has ingredients that form glass.

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Benzine    610

I also forgot to mention, that I also have started to enjoy using, a super-saturated slip, made by deflocculating a slip and adding more and more dried clay into it.  I guess that would be considered at joining slip.

The good thing about it is that it grabs hold and sets fast!  In a classroom, that's a bonus as I've fixed things going right in the kiln, with both that, and the Spooze.

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PeerieMoose    2

I also forgot to mention, that I also have started to enjoy using, a super-saturated slip, made by deflocculating a slip and adding more and more dried clay into it.  I guess that would be considered at joining slip.

The good thing about it is that it grabs hold and sets fast!  In a classroom, that's a bonus as I've fixed things going right in the kiln, with both that, and the Spooze.

Thank you!  I've looked into the slip.. I'm going to see what materials the college has before I go and buy it myself.

 

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When repairing work with slip, I make the slip from the same clay body.  Some time this requires drying some of the clay to bone dry to use to make the slip.  To hurry this up I pound out slabs around 1 mm thick and dry with a heat lamp, then crush the slabs in a dry blender. 
 
lt

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PeerieMoose    2

Thank you all for your help!  Unfortunately, I can't have done the spooze right... as it cracked again when I fired it.  

I have glued it now and thankfully the glue doesn't look too noticeable!! 

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