glazenerd Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 My Orton 4.0 showed a "told" code this morning. First time I have seen it in ten years of using this type of controller. Nothing in the manual about, nothing in the error code reference chart. Going to call Arnold Howard tomorrow; but was hoping to fire today. Nerd Edit: I hate the auto-correct on this I-pad.... TLD code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 I am no help as I have never seen that code on my gas kilns. Tid or told not sure what that could be maybe tad or tit for tad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted August 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 Think I figured it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 well, now that you have left us hanging on the edge of the cliff............ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted August 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 Lady: It is my new forum persona: Nerd the Mystery Writer.. a cliffhanger, thriller, suspense. Actually I think one of the buttons is stuck and the "Hld" is a ramp "hold". Took it apart and blew it out, seems to be working now. My recommendation now is to spray your control board with raid: seems like bugs like to hide out in it, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted August 14, 2017 Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 I heard that about ants liking the hum of the controller. Glad you fixed it. - Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 14, 2017 Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 Took it apart and blew it out, seems to be working now. My recommendation now is to spray your control board with raid: seems like bugs like to hide out in it, It is possible that Raid may be corrosive to electronic circuit boards. I would test first before spraying anything on any type of electronic circuitry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted August 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 Ron: sprayed the outside (face) not the inside. Do not like using pesticides or herbicides at all, but this is getting old. Year or so back a big ole June bug crawled across the circuit board and died: with his legs touching different resistors: the read out was jumping from 72 to 5190... I was like what.. June bugs and lady bugs seem to have an affection for my controllers. Nerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 15, 2017 Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 I can see that can be a headache, but also consider what happens when the pesticides or herbicides start gassing out from the heat. It was pointed out by Marcia that bugs like the hum of the controller, would cutting the power make sense when not in use? Maybe aluminum insect screening that's used for windows would help? I always look for alternatives when it comes to pesticides. I actually use tulle in my garden as an insect screen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted August 15, 2017 Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 They sell compressed air in a can for computer key board cleaning-that should blow those June bugs away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted September 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2017 Back again: I like these really bizarre kiln problems. 1. New controller. 2. New type S thermo couple. 3. New relays. 4. New wiring harness, with connectors. Older APM elements- none broken, volt meter tests okay. PROBLEM: controller stops it's temp read out at exactly 558F. I let it go four hours two days ago: bent a cone 5. Anyone care to take a stab at this one? Nerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted September 27, 2017 Report Share Posted September 27, 2017 Is the controller properly set up to use with type S? Bad thermocouple wire or loose connection? Those would be my first two guesses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted September 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2017 Neil: i checked the pin setting on the new controller against the old one: pin seems to be in the right slot for type S. However, Paragon is suppose to be sending me a pic of the right pin setting to be sure. Double checked my thermocouple harness/ wiring again this morning, I cannot see anything visually wrong. However, a thought occurred to me after checking the kiln just now: the read out stopped at 558F yet again. The relay is clicking normally up to this temp, then it runs full bore afterwards. Relay sticking for some reason after this temp? Never heard of it before, but is it possible even though it is new? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted September 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2017 Neil: A bit of new information on Orton controllers. They have a new safety lock out feature: if you hit the key pad in a certain order: it disables the key pads until you unlock it. I noticed however that it would be easy enough for someone to accidentally lock out the keypad. As you recall a month or so ago, we had a thread about key pad not working when depressing the keys. Something you need to add to your memory bank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted September 27, 2017 Report Share Posted September 27, 2017 6 minutes ago, glazenerd said: Neil: i checked the pin setting on the new controller against the old one: pin seems to be in the right slot for type S. However, Paragon is suppose to be sending me a pic of the right pin setting to be sure. Double checked my thermocouple harness/ wiring again this morning, I cannot see anything visually wrong. However, a thought occurred to me after checking the kiln just now: the read out stopped at 558F yet again. The relay is clicking normally up to this temp, then it runs full bore afterwards. Relay sticking for some reason after this temp? Never heard of it before, but is it possible even though it is new? Yes, new relays can stick. It's pretty rare, but possible. Like when you get any new electric thing and it doesn't work out of the box. But even if the relay is sticking, the controller should show the increasing temperature on the readout. I don't think the relay is the issue. It's probably going full on because it's trying to get to a higher temperature that it's not recognizing it's doing. Odd that it didn't put out an error code after a while, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted September 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2017 Good point Neil: there should be an FTL code and shut down. Will call PAragon again today, tell them to get the pic of the pin slot setting up here pronto. nerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted October 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 Neil: update: I ran a quick "check" program a couple of days ago. I programmed a 500 F ramp to 500F, then off. I stayed out there the entire time: the relays stopped clicking around 277F, then ran wide open afterwards. They are sending two new relays to replace the two new relays. Although, it never did come up to temp, nor were the elements cherry red after running wide open for over 30 minutes. Still think it is more than a relay issue, but we shall see. The controller and type as thermocouple are also new. APM elements with 100-120 firings on them. Reference: 1.75 CF test kiln with 6800 watts. Tested each feed: 121.4 volts per leg- total 242.8 pin sitting for type S is correct. Nerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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