Sputty Posted June 5, 2017 Report Share Posted June 5, 2017 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted June 5, 2017 Report Share Posted June 5, 2017 In that recent thread about a ^03 porcelain body a tiny bit of blue stain was added to counter the yellow tinge of the claybody. Might be a place to start, would be interesting to see how it turned out. Peacock blue stain, Mason 6336 was used. https://digitalfire.com/4sight/material/stain_6336_1520.html https://digitalfire.com/4sight/recipes/zero3_porcelain_experimental_133.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Bridge Pottery Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 I would maybe try some Titanium Dioxide, I recall seeing some blues and variegation that could get somewhere nearer tin. Using tin is the best option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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Callie Beller Diesel Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 I would maybe try some Titanium Dioxide, I recall seeing some blues and variegation that could get somewhere nearer tin. Using tin is the best option. In my testing, titanium leans more towards yellow in a white glaze, unless you have too much boron in the base. Then it contributes to a floating blue effect, not an overall bluish tinge that you're talking about. The cooler, more blue-white glazes I found were either fully opacified with zircopax, or a 50/50 tin/zircopax split. I used 10% total opacifier, but I'm covering a very dark clay. I find I need the tin because it helps the glaze to still break on the edges of things. Using zircopax alone makes those delightful little dark edges peeking out vanish under a fat, cloying white. I've not found a way around tin elimination. But then I think that so many of the rest of our materials are so inexpensive, a splurge on some tin isn't such a bad thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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