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Can Unglazed Pieces Touch In Cone 6 Firing?

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I create decorative pods that I paint with acrylic paints after they are high fired (cone 6) - so I fire them unglazed. Can they touch in the cone 6 firing (I'm using cone 6 porcelain - Tuckers Bright White) I'm pretty certain this is a stupid question, but am humbly asking, anyway!

post-76914-0-94959300-1489495880_thumb.jpg

post-76914-0-94959300-1489495880_thumb.jpg

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Chris Campbell    1,082

I agree with Neil ... you cannot stack them on each other or lean them against each other because they will stick to each other.

You could however load them with their sides just touching.... theoretically by the time they get melting hot they will have shrunk somewhat and not be touching at all.

That said, I would not do it. I would leave just a bit between them.

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D.M.Ernst    19

There are no stupid questions.

 

What is different about porcelain that makes it stick together when fired to ^6?  Can it touch during the bisque?  Would unglazed stoneware stick together if fired to ^6? 

 

I was very surprised to learn this.  Thank you again for your experience and expertise.

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neilestrick    1,379

There are no stupid questions.

 

What is different about porcelain that makes it stick together when fired to ^6?  Can it touch during the bisque?  Would unglazed stoneware stick together if fired to ^6? 

 

I was very surprised to learn this.  Thank you again for your experience and expertise.

 

Porcelain gets very close to its melting point, therefore pieces stick. Think molten glass. Stoneware not as much, but still sticky to some degree. In a bisque it's not a problem because the clay doesn't get anywhere near its melting point. You could stack raw pieces in a cone 6 firing, but you would need to do some alumina wax wherever they touch, and they're much more likely to warp if you stack them.

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JohnnyK    87

Love the pieces...particularly the metallic!  What kind of paint are you using. I have some acrylics that are designed for automotive use and cure under heat (like a heat gun).

JohnnyK

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Thanks JohnnyK - I just use ordinary artists acrylic paints from the art supply shops (and even the dollar store) - there's a wide variety of colors and finishes available. They take a couple hours to dry, and I put a protective coat of varathane or sometimes just modgepodge on when they are dry. It's all about the layering with this kind of work - a lot of painting on, wiping off, and layering some more until I get an effect I like. Only problem is you can never repeat it - it's different every time! The ones in the picture are about 3 years old - no fading or flaking yet!

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