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Resist Over Glaze?


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#1 RonSa

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 03:49 PM

Is it ok to brush on resist over dried glaze to prevent another glaze combining with the first?


Ron


#2 Sputty

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 04:22 PM

Yes.



#3 RonSa

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 04:47 PM

Thanks


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#4 Marcia Selsor

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 05:56 PM

Ask Hamada. He did it for years.
https://www.1stdibs....581596233535710

Also see Daphne Hatcher's work
http://pinemills.com...hnehatcher.html

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#5 bciskepottery

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 08:09 PM

Ask Hamada. He did it for years.


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#6 neilestrick

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 08:59 PM

On some glazes that are low in clay, when the glaze completely dries the wax will peel up since the glaze is too powdery to prevent it. I have a couple that do it. When it happens, it peels up the glaze with it and ruin your nice glaze job. To prevent that from happening, after you're all done glazing the pot and before the glaze has totally dried, lightly go over the wax with a torch to melt it into the glaze. Works like a charm. Or put the pot into the kiln and start the firing right away.


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#7 Min

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 09:49 PM

On some glazes that are low in clay, when the glaze completely dries the wax will peel up since the glaze is too powdery to prevent it. I have a couple that do it. When it happens, it peels up the glaze with it and ruin your nice glaze job. To prevent that from happening, after you're all done glazing the pot and before the glaze has totally dried, lightly go over the wax with a torch to melt it into the glaze. Works like a charm. Or put the pot into the kiln and start the firing right away.


The Mobilizer A oil based wax resist, that takes forever to dry, works super well on dusty glazes. Good to know the torch trick, thanks for sharing that.

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#8 Mark (Marko) Madrazo

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 10:31 PM

Yup, I couldn't have said it better. No really. Really. But I did learn something. Great place, Potter's Council. Best wishes.



#9 Marcia Selsor

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Posted 23 February 2017 - 11:19 AM

Hamada discovered the liquid wax resist developed by Hank Melon (sp) in the 50s when Yanagi, Hamada and Bernard Leach were visiting the Bray.
The process he used as well as Dave Shaner, Leach and many disciples is this
Apply the coat for the design.
Brush on wax. Let it dry. Wash edges. Apply the second glaze. Wipe off the triplets on the wax resist.
Gives a nice clean edge.http://i.ebayimg.com...ktQu/s-l300.jpg

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#10 Min

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Posted 23 February 2017 - 05:46 PM

from NCECA a few years ago http://blog.nceca.ne...he-process-room


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#11 Marcia Selsor

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Posted 23 February 2017 - 07:44 PM

NCECA offers so much. It is exhausting and a rush of inspiration at the same time.Thanks for posting from the Process room.

Marcia
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#12 oldlady

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Posted 23 February 2017 - 09:25 PM

no video, just a black rectangle.


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#13 RonSa

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Posted 24 February 2017 - 08:49 AM

no video, just a black rectangle.

 

You either may have to enable javascript or you have something blocking the video on your end. An app like NoScript installed on your browser wiil do that.

 

Try this link


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#14 Pugaboo

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Posted 24 February 2017 - 09:05 AM

This is SO great I have been having just this problem. I decorate the clear glaze the image, wax, then glaze the rest of the piece. Leave to dry and EEEKKKKKK!

All my lovely work is ruined because the clear glaze peels up leaving awfulness behind.

I've also had it happen with my white glaze.

I'm off to order the Mobilizer-A.

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#15 flowerdry

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Posted 24 February 2017 - 09:31 AM

Don't personally have much experience with this, but our studio manager uses the wax over glaze technique a lot and swears by Aftosa brand.


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#16 preeta

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Posted 24 February 2017 - 09:59 AM

oooh Ronsa. welcome to the world of wax resist. endless possibilities. my favourite is carving the wax resist on the glaze and then washing the exposed area out and then applying another glaze. i dont do precise lines so i dont mind the wax peeling (in fact i prefer it). what i like about that is i get two layers of single glaze. not one on top of the other :) with iron rich glazes the edges of the carved out wax resist usually breaks into a different colour looking lovely.


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#17 RonSa

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Posted 24 February 2017 - 10:07 AM

my favourite is carving the wax resist on the glaze and then washing the exposed area out and then applying another glaze.

 

Ohh, the possibilities! Thanks


Ron


#18 Min

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Posted 24 February 2017 - 12:20 PM

Don't personally have much experience with this, but our studio manager uses the wax over glaze technique a lot and swears by Aftosa brand.

 

Yeah, I think that would be a petroleum based one too. On their info sheet it says it takes 3 or 4 hours to dry which would make sense.


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#19 preeta

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Posted 24 February 2017 - 06:48 PM

 

my favourite is carving the wax resist on the glaze and then washing the exposed area out and then applying another glaze.

 

Ohh, the possibilities! Thanks

 

oh dont thank me. thank hamada. its his technique that i learnt when Marcia posted about it on a thread here. i havent seen the videos here but i have used wax to do multiple glazings without it being too time consuming. 

 

the thing about hamada's technique - for me was - that it made you think differently - and blew my mind to endless possibilities. it is brilliant in its simplicity.


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#20 RonSa

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Posted 03 March 2017 - 04:47 PM

On some glazes that are low in clay, when the glaze completely dries the wax will peel up since the glaze is too powdery to prevent it. I have a couple that do it. When it happens, it peels up the glaze with it and ruin your nice glaze job. To prevent that from happening, after you're all done glazing the pot and before the glaze has totally dried, lightly go over the wax with a torch to melt it into the glaze. Works like a charm. Or put the pot into the kiln and start the firing right away.

 

Is it possible to wax over bisque then use a torch to remove it so one could glaze over the bare bisque?

 

Kind of like the liquid frisket used with airbrushes?


Ron





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