Tiles Issues

[demmert]

Forum- 

 

Clay Body-  

 

I am using a earthenware clay.  33% Redart  33% Hawthorne Fireclay 33% Grog

I just had those materials and mixed it up.  I think it is a bit expensive to consider for full time production.

Thoughts 

 

Vitrify- 

I am firing the tiles to Cone 1 and haven't run any absorption tests.  But its not vitrified for sure probably around cone 5-6, would be my guess.  Does floor, wall, and bath tiles need to be completely vitrified for these applications.

 

Cupping-

Some tiles are cupping after fire.  I was getting flat tiles at cone 05 then added a white slip for color and texture and raised the firing to cone 1 and they cupped.

 

Thanks for any thoughts.

I am interested in making a lot of tiles for our new home that I will be building.

 

 

[Marcia Selsor]

In what position are you firing them. Most hand made tile production I have seen, dries and fires on edge. They stand them up in almost an overlapping herringbone pattern.

Marcia

[demmert]

I am creating, storing, and firing them flat.  I use weight as they are drying to keep them flat.  

They are also dead flat when going into the kiln.

 

Thanks for the reply

 

dave

[Marko]

I assume you mean inside tile. Outside tile is different. I have made many tiles using commercial clays. I have made low fire and high fire, or rather ^6 for my outdoor tile signs. For the inside it depends on the look you want to achieve. Low fire tiles can offer brighter and a more painterly look, but they shouldn't be used in yet areas. Whereas, high fire glazes can be somewhat harder to create a more painterly look, due to color burn out. But with some trial and error you can achieve something exciting and unique. I use to work with a interior designer, what a nightmare, pays well, but very demanding. I don't recommend that unless you can deal with a lot of stress.

Anyway, I think you should go with commercial clay for more consistency. Talking with your supplier is a big help. I have even called Laguna for help. They are so very helpful. But any clay maker will be also glad to help you achieve what your looking to accomplish. 

[glazenerd]

Dave:

 

I understand how you arrived at your clay body: using up existing stock is always a good thing. However, this body has a very weak mechanical structure= more like lack thereof. To have 33% grog, at minimum you would have to have 33% high plasticity ball clay or very high levels of macaloid.or V-gum T. The lack of structure in the clay is playing a large role in the tile curling/warping. Thick glaze application also plays into this problem. Try using this clay recipe designed around what you already have.  You vitrification levels will go way up as well. The COE is higher, which should make it easier to fit a glaze to it.

 

Red Art 33

Hawthorne 30

Grog 10

Silica 10

Feldspar 17           This is for cone 1 use only-- will probably tolerate up to cone 3-- but not much above that.

 

Nerd

[demmert]

Thanks everone!  GN I think that makes sense.  Ill experiment adding more Spar.

 

dave