docweathers Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 Has anyone ever tried using diamond router ^6 bisqueware? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 Wear a mask Doc-should cut it like butter in a dust bowl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 Dremel also makes diamond/carbide bits; which allows for more freedom of movement. You can use it to detail in more precise ways. However, both a Dremel and a router are high speed tools ( 7000-10,000 RPM) which means dust as Marked pointed out: but it also means they will send small pieces flying at high speeds. So add safety glasses as well. Nerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 I have used the dremel diamond bit to sign work that someway did not get signed, have also used it to clean up edges of some incising that was still pretty rough. HOwever, I used dust mask and goggles with gloves on the entire time. The little pieces of bisque would fly everywhere, and startle me when I was running the tool-hot bisque. Don't do it often. best, Pres Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 What are you trying to accomplish with the router? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docweathers Posted February 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 I'm trying to get my lid fits more precisely. Obsessive compulsive disorder??? I understand the need for protection from the flying crap.. I was considering one of those medieval suits of armor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 All clay shaping should be done before bisque. If they're not fitting correctly after drying, then the moisture contents of the lid and pot aren't the same when you trim them. Wrap them up together for a couple of days before trimming so they can even out a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 Pretty easy to grind them on a 8 inch green silicon carbide wheel. I do it every month Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 My lids always fit well, guess I'm lucky. However, I never liked the rough feel of the clay rubbing together on a lid and rim both being unglazed. My solution is very simple. I spread a solution of soft scrub and comet or other type of abrasive cleaner on the rim of the pot the lid goes on, then turn the lid back and forth to polish the clay surfaces. Extra step that takes little effort, but is noticed. best, Pres Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-1-8-in-Spear-Shaped-Tungsten-Carbide-Cutter-for-Steel-Stainless-Steel-Iron-Ceramics-Plastics-and-Hard- OCD = Obsessive Clay Disorder,, not to worry, every one on the forum has it. Nerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 If the lid sticks a bit after firing silicon carbide mixed with toothpaste then smeared on the flange/rim works super well. I use a q-tip to apply it then put the lid on the pot and rotate it until it fits. Leaves the rim/flange smooth as glass too. Larry, do you make the lids with the same batch of clay as the bases and dry and bisque them together? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docweathers Posted February 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2017 My lids don't fit all that bad. Every now and then then one of them isn't what I was hoping for. You've given me some better ideas than using a router. And with them I won't even have to use my suit of armor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted February 4, 2017 Report Share Posted February 4, 2017 Doc I have a few tools right next to my car kiln-the 8 inch bench grinder with this wheel https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002FSAX2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Since you are a metals guy I need to mention that these are Green wheels and work best on ceramics as they run cooler. These are not the grey silicon carbide wheels you know for metal work they are GREEN The other tools are some corded Dremel tools also with the green silicon wheels.I use these a lot as well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004UDKE/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_48?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER I have two each with a different bit.I also have one with diamond bits. These tools take care of glaze runs lid trimming whatever come along-I also keep a corded 4 inch Mikita hanging near kiln with a masonry wheel for kiln shelve work. I keep my carbide router bits for wood use Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docweathers Posted February 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2017 Mark I have a couple of bench grinders. One with really rough stones for my welding and another with finer stones that I typically use for sharpening pottery tools.I could replace the stones on my pottery grinder with the ones that you suggest. How would they be for sharpening pottery tools? I have flex drive dremmel tool (garage sale find) that I have never used. Maybe I should hook it up and try the bit you are suggesting. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted February 4, 2017 Report Share Posted February 4, 2017 Doc I use the regular stones for sharpening metal-I have two bench grinders-one for steel sharpening-things like lawnmower blades and pottery tools also with a brass wire wheel for rough pot bottoms on my slab clay items (brass leaves no marks on white clay. The other wheel is two grits of the green stones- the coarsest one you can buy is best (60 or courser) for clay/glaze removal -then I finish withe the dremel tool I pictured . I have used these setup for many decades and its been refined to these tools now. Bench grinders are now so cheap from dewalt and harbor freight and other china made brands it makes sense to have a few-ther are not Baldors . My old one is a granger and is 40 years old and works well. The other is a china brand and they last about 10 years then crap out.I like the 8 inch ones as the the stone lasts long running cooler at the grind point. The 6 oinch are cheaper all the way around and you may want one of those the grinners are cheaper as well as the green stones. You can buy the green stone's from Axner as well in 6 inch-8 inch are harder to find-I always stock a few spares myself . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docweathers Posted February 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2017 What is Dewily?. I searched for it on the web. I find Turkish definitions for it but no vendor. My steel grinder, another garage sale find, is an antique Sears probably from the 50s. It still runs absolutely quiet. The bearings are so good that sometimes five minutes after I turn it off it is still spinning so fast that I have to go over and to make sure I actually turned it off. Years ago one of my electric garage openers wasn't strong enough for my cold winters and I had to replace it. I used the motor to build a water cooled diamond disk bottom grinder, something like what the lapidary people use. It works very well. Its low-speed makes it easier to keep wet and cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted February 5, 2017 Report Share Posted February 5, 2017 Doc its my auto infill spell program which overrode the Dewalt (Bench grinders are now so cheap from dewalt and harbor freight) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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