PottaFella Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 To save energy, wear on kiln and for effect, I'd like to experiment with raw glazing, perhaps using a fairly matt (titanium?) raw glaze on exterior and I guess something shinier on inside for hygiene – thinking of teapots and cups etc. Probably firing at around cone 7/8 (I'm currently firing stoneware at cone 71/2) as this gives me a compromise between maturing the available clay bodies here in the UK and saving my kiln elements/energy. I am trying to get down to cone 6 so that is possible too. I'm guessing many cone 6 recipes may well work at cone 7/8 too. Wondering if anyone experienced with this type of glazing could possibly give some pointers regarding starting points for recipes I could test on my clay? Especially interested in whether a raw glaze of this sort can be used on the inside of a jug, saving the need for a liner? Like to think this subject could be of interest to others who'd like a greener way of firing. Many thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sputty Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 You might be interested in Fran Tristram's Single Firing: The Pros and Cons (Ceramics Handbooks). New and s/h copies can be found at reasonable prices http://tinyurl.com/jyucfyp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PottaFella Posted December 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 Just ordered Fran Tristram's book (and a couple of other pottery books I couldn't resist ) and look forward to reading it through soon - thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_L Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 Hi Oly, You'll find that book really useful. I'm single firing with commercial glazes at ^8-9 but want to formulate my own glazes eventually so very interested to know how you get along. Many (but not all) of the problems associated with single-fire are glaze application issues and drying shrinkage issues so unaffected by eventual firing temperature, though of course trying to adjust glaze chemistry for different temperature ranges will interact with the application and drying shrinkage properties. At least by mixing your own glazes you are ultimately in control. Perhaps!! The problems with bodies available in the UK for ^6 is an irritation indeed, as discussed in another topic. Have fun! Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 well, it is a good thing i never heard that this was a difficult thing to do. have had no problems with single firing. the secret is spraying the glaze. it goes on and is dry immediately because it is thick. no thin running stuff that drips. yes, it means learning a new skill and yes, sometimes getting spray into the top of bowls is not as easy as it might seem. but it is worth it, turnover is quick and the time i save is used for doing other things. life is short, get on with it. check how industry does it. they are the ultimate production potters and do not have time to wring their hands with useless worry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_L Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 Yep SF does seem to have a reputation for being difficult but I've not had any problems in my home studio with brushing (limited room for spray booth). Definitely an interesting thing to try but might not suit everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PottaFella Posted December 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 well, it is a good thing i never heard that this was a difficult thing to do. have had no problems with single firing. the secret is spraying the glaze. it goes on and is dry immediately because it is thick. no thin running stuff that drips. yes, it means learning a new skill and yes, sometimes getting spray into the top of bowls is not as easy as it might seem. but it is worth it, turnover is quick and the time i save is used for doing other things. life is short, get on with it. check how industry does it. they are the ultimate production potters and do not have time to wring their hands with useless worry. v interesting, have to say I was expecting to be dipping – don't know why! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rakukuku Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 I did a fair amount of single fired stuff to cone 9 when I was a student about a million years ago. My instructor told me to look for glazes with a higher clay content so they would stay on. Sprayed the glaze on slowly on the leather hard piece and the glaze would shrink with the drying post. This worked pretty well. Can't remember how i did the insides. It can be done. GL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Bridge Pottery Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 I was having a look at John Brit High Fire book today and it has a little section in there about single fire if you have the book. It did say that high clay content is needed for leather hard glazing but most glazes could work on bone dry pots as they have done the shrinking. Never tried it myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_L Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 Oly, dipping does work if you want to do that. You do have to work out the right timing for applying inside and outside glaze layers depending on the properties of your glaze and body to avoid forming blisters in the unfired greenware - see Fran Tristram's book. That said I'd like to try spraying some day as OldLady suggested. (need more space, more time, more equipment...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 the secret is spraying the glaze. it goes on and is dry immediately because it is thick. no thin running stuff that drips. yes, it means learning a new skill and yes If I may ask, what type of gun are you using to spray? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilly Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 "Glazes Cone 6 1240C" by Michael Bailey also has a chapter on "raw glazes". And, as the book is written by a Brit the materials are all those commonly (and cheaply) available here. Worth a look if you can get hold of one - I have one at the mo from the library, wanted to see it before buying it, as they are rare and not cheap - £12.99 cover price, cheapest on Amazon £34...... Does seem better value than those aimed at the US market though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 a simple siphon. the brand name is Eze sprayer but the design is a classic. pint size eze bottles are the only ones that fit the sprayer but they are made badly. they leak and make a mess. the siphon itself can be moved to a different lid so a different bottle can be used to hold the glaze. the reason i like the eze is that your fingers have a large trigger to pull. the Critter siphon is the same style but the trigger is small and curved for only one finger. that would be hard to use for a long time. they are in the normal ceramic supply stores. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 >"Glazes Cone 6 1240C" by Michael Bailey >they are rare and not cheap - £12.99 cover price, cheapest on Amazon £34...... You can save a little by using one of the bookshops indexed by bookfinder, at the moment the cheapest are £25.16 new, £22.26 s/h. http://tinyurl.com/j6pbh3m Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 a simple siphon. the brand name is Eze sprayer but the design is a classic. pint size eze bottles are the only ones that fit the sprayer but they are made badly. they leak and make a mess. the siphon itself can be moved to a different lid so a different bottle can be used to hold the glaze. the reason i like the eze is that your fingers have a large trigger to pull. the Critter siphon is the same style but the trigger is small and curved for only one finger. that would be hard to use for a long time. they are in the normal ceramic supply stores. Thanks, I already have a Critter and I agree with you about the trigger. I haven't tried to spray a glaze yet but from my experience with finishes it needs to be thin. How thin can you make a glaze without ruining it and how many coats should I give it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhPotter Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 Do you have an air compressor? I'm spraying at about 50psi. Some go lower, some go higher. The Critter is $42 - https://www.amazon.com/Critter-Spray-Products-22032-Siphon/dp/B00006FRPJ- the cool thing about the critter is it uses pint Mason jars. Take a Mason jar lid, drill the holes needed, the Mason jar lids work better than the lid supplied. Buy some plastic Mason pint jars and you can have multiple glazes loaded in jars ready to use without cleaning the 1 glass jar supplied each time for new glaze. Thank You Min for this idea. This is the spray booth I made from these plans - https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.417445012878.195322.344268547878&type=3- I put an old AC filter over the PC fan so the fan blades do not get gummed up with glaze. The freedom spraying gives is a huge success for me. No more dunkin' donuts. My Evolution Gallery is all sprayed pieces. OldLady sprays outside not using a booth. It is too windy for me to do that. I open the door to the pottery building, put the booth with the fan facing the open door and spray away. RonSa I do not mix the glazes any different than if I were still dipping. Look for that "chunky velvet" look- Thank You OldLady for the description. You can see the cracking - this area is a bit too thick but it worked out in the firing. Good Luck to any who try spraying - you will not regret it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilly Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 a simple siphon. the brand name is Eze sprayer but the design is a classic. pint size eze bottles are the only ones that fit the sprayer but they are made badly. they leak and make a mess. the siphon itself can be moved to a different lid so a different bottle can be used to hold the glaze. the reason i like the eze is that your fingers have a large trigger to pull. the Critter siphon is the same style but the trigger is small and curved for only one finger. that would be hard to use for a long time. they are in the normal ceramic supply stores. Wow OldLady, I didn't realise you used a hand operated sprayer, always assumed you used something that was "powered", I'm even more in awe now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 chilly, it is powered by an air compressor. these old asthmatic lungs cannot blow out a candle without working hard at it. i just mean the design is that simple siphon, not some 5000-piece-jigsaw-puzzle-made-of-metal sprayer. thanks for thinking about me at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 john, i am making one of these as soon as i get home!!!!!! THANK YOU! i was imagining one from an old shower stall cut down. this is great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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