Chukchi Posted November 21, 2016 Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 I applied an iron oxide wash (straight, nothing but water added) to a bisque piece and fired to 018. The result was a really nice orange/ red. I then covered that with a translucent green glaze and fired to cone 6. Fail! The orange/red turned black. At what temp can I fire this oxide without losing it? Thanks much!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted November 21, 2016 Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 What are you trying to accomplish? That red/orange color but with a clear glossy glaze over it? You' be better off using underglazes and blending them to get the color you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted November 21, 2016 Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 Bit like painting. Put green into red/orange as you have done voila blackish. As temp rises your iron will go deeper like terrcotta, use a clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chukchi Posted November 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 What I'd like to accomplish is a watercolor effect, like leaves turning during the fall. If I were to use a clear glaze, what temp/ cone could I go to before I loose the oxide? Thanks y'all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted November 21, 2016 Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 Hard to say, and depends on the clear. Just putting a clear on it at any temp is going to change the color vs the raw oxide. For a watercolor effect, watered down underglazes work very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted November 21, 2016 Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 Underglazes mostly are, what you see are what you get, mostly, and so Neil's advice is great. Oxides, it depends more. Do some test pieces with various strengths etc, recording what you've done, and see what comes closest to what you're after. I'd be going for the temp/cone you usually fire to. Special firings can be problematic , you'll have a piece or two left over, and I swear, you'll fire it in the wrong firing sooner or later...... speaking from experience here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted November 21, 2016 Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 You might be better off to use am overglaze on top of the glaze after it is applied to the pot. Using iron without a flux at 018 cloud be really messy to handle. If you dilute your oxides into a wash and float the on the glaze, you can achieve a type of water color brushwork. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chukchi Posted November 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 Using the iron oxide at 018 was pretty nice. I think it was the glaze going over it plus the higher temp that made it disappear. What Marcia says intrigues me, but not sure I understand, "...dilute your oxides into a task and float the on the glaze..." Could you speak to this quote a little more? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 sorry auto correct. dilute them into a wash.use a soft watercolor brush and paint with the washes. You can add a little flus or some glaze so they completely melt. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chukchi Posted November 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2016 I hope everyone had a nice and relaxing Thanksgiving! I have been reading about underglaze washes and it all sounds good. I'm still a little iffy on what goes on first. Would the layering be: 1) Cone 6 glaze and let dry/ then apply various watery underglazes OR 2) Apply various watery underglazes/ then apply the cone 6 glaze (would it be wise to fire the underglaze and then apply the cone 6 and fire again?) Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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