Laurène Ashley Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 Hello everyone! I need some inspiration on how to enhance leaf impressions in clay. I've used a black underglaze wash, and have played around with different oxides and clear glaze. Does anyone have some good combos they are willing to share with photos?? Would appreciate it! Thanks! Laurène Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 Just a plain old celadon glaze seems to work fine for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laurène Ashley Posted October 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 Beautiful green! Is this a commercial glaze? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 Beautiful green! Is this a commercial glaze? Yes, Celadon from Mid-South. Cone 6, oxidation. https://www.midsouthceramics.com/product/503celadon/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatthewV Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 On a horizontal imprint where the glaze will fill it in, usually just a good celadon glaze does the trick On a vertical surface, a little extra effort helps. This one uses an iron oxide wash generously applied and then mostly removed with a sponge. A celadon glaze was used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ayjay Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 Of course you don't have to make impressions. Glaze dish white - place leaf over (PVA or Elmers will help) - spray green - leave leaf in place and fire. Another way (not my best result, I forgot to photograph that one before it sold) is to spray a leaf with glaze and just place on a glazed plate/dish before firing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laurène Ashley Posted October 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 On a horizontal imprint where the glaze will fill it in, usually just a good celadon glaze does the trick On a vertical surface, a little extra effort helps. This one uses an iron oxide wash generously applied and then mostly removed with a sponge. A celadon glaze was used. Very nice Matthew! Thanks for sharing! Of course you don't have to make impressions. Glaze dish white - place leaf over (PVA or Elmers will help) - spray green - leave leaf in place and fire. DSCF2395-c-r-f.jpg Another way (not my best result, I forgot to photograph that one before it sold) is to spray a leaf with glaze and just place on a glazed plate/dish before firing. DSCF2406.JPG Beautiful ayjay! I like the subtle leaf impression! I will try that! Laurène Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 it helps to use the kind of leaf that has enough substance that the veins stand out. thicker than a maple leaf so the edge is distinct from the background is important if you plan to roll it into the surface of the clay. if you are just painting it on, spraying a color around the shape is enough to get the impression of a leaf and any kind will do. look at my gallery for samples. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laurène Ashley Posted October 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 I've been using fig leaves from the garden. Thick and very veiny. I just made about six fig leaf shaped plates with a tea cup, and don't know how to glaze them....trying out some different things, but looking for more inspiration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 did you cut exactly around the edge so the plate is the shape of the leaf or did you make the plate round or something else with the leaf inside the border of the plate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laurène Ashley Posted October 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 I cut around the leaf, they are really pretty, but haven't glazed them yet as I'm still trying to decide what to do and what color to glaze the tea cups. If you have instagram, I have pictures of them on there: Laurene_ashley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ayjay Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 Beautiful ayjay! I like the subtle leaf impression! I will try that! Laurène Thanks Laurene: one thing I should have mentioned, some leaves can be quite waxy and don't take glaze well. I just give any leaf I use a quick squirt of hairspray first now, let it dry and then carry on. That also seems to keep them usable for a few days which can be handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnolia Mud Research Posted October 6, 2016 Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 I have used all sorts of leaves to make impressions. If used directly from the plant, the leaves will be flexible so I just put then on to the clay and roll them in with a brayer to get a good impression of the veins and the leaf edges. It some times helps to cover the leaf with a cloth or something similar. For thrown surfaces, the pots are wrapped with cloth or plastic while being "rolled." When using dry leaves I soak them in water with a bit of liquid soap to soften them, and when soft, dry the leaves between paper towels before applying to the clay. Sometimes I will sprinkle red iron oxide (RIO) on the clay side of the leaf before applying, others I will coat the leaf with a thin layer of Mars Black acrylic artist paint to provide an iron source to the leaf. Both methods will fire the iron into the bisqued clay body. Other methods of adding a stain or colorant to the leaf can be devised from what I have described. If I am using the Mars Black acrylic, the leaf remains on the pot during the bisque firing where it burns out. With RIO stain, enough transfers to the clay that reuse of the leaf is possible if you are careful in removing it from the pot. I have also put pressed leaves onto a thrown pot and covered the pot with slip, and when the slip has 'set' pulled the leaf of leaving both an impression and a 'bare' area. While I have not tried it, you could coat the leaf with a slip instead of RIO or Mars Black and get both an area covered with slip and an impression. Glazing is usually with a transparent glaze such as clear, or a true celadon (high fired in gas kiln). The imprint leaves a fine and somewhat subtle texture in the clay, so covering it with an opaque and / or thick glaze will obscure the leaf, but maybe that is what you want. I often also use partial leaves to add abstract markings in the clay body when the pot is to be fired without glaze. LT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted October 7, 2016 Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 sorry, laurene, i know nothing about instagram. can you post them on the cad gallery or here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnolia Mud Research Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 I have done the 'darkening' several ways: 1. before bisque paint the areas you want dark with a stain. 2. paint the areas you want dark with stain before glazing and before adding resist. 3. coat the leaf with stain (I use red iron oxide powder or Mars Black acrylic art paint) before pressing the leaf into the clay. 4. washing the bisqued pot with stain and wiping it off before glazing. LT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rakukuku Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 I once attended a workshop on colored slips. The instructor painted a leaf with slip and immediately applied it to the pot which was probably leather hard. The slip stuck, leaf was removed, leaving a leaf appliqué. Looked nice but I never tried it out. Rakuku Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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