Min Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 The arched roof and the door of our front loading electric needs replacing. I can get some good quality unused K26 bricks cheap but am wondering what the downside of using those would be since the rest of the kiln is made from K23’s. I was thinking that cutting the element channels for the door bricks would be less crumbly? Also, we would have to cut the bevels in the arch bricks, can set the table saw up outside to do this plus the router table for the channels. So do we save a few hundred on the K26 or keep the bricks all the same? I get that the weight and mass of the K26 is more but anything else to consider? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 The K26 will probably be less crumbly. Although they can withstand the higher temps, they don't insulate quite as well, although probably not enough to make a big difference. I would go ahead and use them because you'll get less shrinkage of the hot face, which means the arch will last longer. As for cutting, any power saw can do it very easily, however it will destroy the blade and make a ton of dust. The dust can get into the motor of your saw and ruin it. If you've got an old chop saw I would use that rather than risk your table saw. They also cut very easily with a hand saw, and setting up a jig would be easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted June 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 Thanks Neil, much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrim8 Posted June 17, 2016 Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 I use a hand saw and outdoors because of the dust. Remember to measure very carefully unless you have lots of bricks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JBaymore Posted June 17, 2016 Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 If you don't have a wet cooled brick saw................. one of the best saws for cutting IFB is a 24" bow pruning saw. The snarly teeth rip right thru the bricks... and it is easy to grind new teeth into it when needed (metal grinder). Takes a little practice to get straight cuts.... but works great. best, .......................john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted June 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 John, is the main reason for using the wet saw on IFB's to keep the dust down? Blade wouldn't get very hot with these bricks would it? Never would have thought to use a tree pruning saw, good idea. No tool is safe from being used for ceramic purposes. Might give the band saw a try too, can angle the table to get the right miter on the bricks, I'm thinking there would be less dust from this than the table saw since the kerf of the blade is much thinner. I'm also thinking of setting up the leaf blower to send the dust away from the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JBaymore Posted June 17, 2016 Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 Min, Yeah... for IFB, which are soft and easily cut with most any saw, it is purely for dust control. Unless you happen to be using a diamond blade... then it is for cooling also. Heat from friction kills the diamond blades. A water cooled diamond saw is "overkill" for IFB relative to the hardness factor........ but it creates VERY clean cuts and really gets rid of the dust issue. Harbor Freight has a really nice one that can be had for under $300. When I hold kiln building workshops or teach my kiln construction classes at the college we always have a handful of pruning saws around... and everyone is amazed at how well they work. The deep snaggly teeth are the key there. It takes a LONG time for them to wear away... and they do not clog with brick dust easily. Send the dust away from YOU and the motor. Refractory dust is really bad news. It is actually typically worse than normal clay and glaze dust. When I build kilns in workshops and at the college .......... all of the IFB is dunked quickly in water as it is taken out of the cases. Hard brick pallets are hosed off before use. Fiber blanket is worked wet too (and sealed under castable in place). If I'm taking down an old kiln it is saturated with a hose before it gets ripped into. best, ....................john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted June 17, 2016 Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 I wouldn't use a band saw. No matter how good your vacuum, you're going to get material down inside it, where it could ruin the motor and bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted June 17, 2016 Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 My last arch I used k26 as they hold up longer at cone 10. They are a tad heaver and insulate less but are not as soft and last longer so in the long run they are better for me. Johns advice on cutting is great- If you do use another type of saw use a vac and fan and mask-I did use an old radial arm(sears) saw with carbide tooth 14 inch blade(from harbor freight) which is my brick saw as I already owned it. I built a jig to hold bricks and wet them 1st.I do not care if the motor dies down the road-its done two large arches in 15 years and is still working. I now have a wet diamond saw I would use that's an MK for all brick cutting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 I always used a simple hacksaw. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 My story with these cutting tools is for doing a whole arch on a kiln . A handsaw is great for a few bricks as John said and macros said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpeg.d021db3f0c3918c6b59702beccccce4d.jpeg)
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.