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Thickness Of Shino Glazes


LinR

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I'm going to be doing a soda firing next week and a wood firing next month.  I have made up some glazes and flashing slips for these firings.  I know that the flashing slips should be very thin.  I am wondering if the Shino glazes should be applied thinner than normal glazes.

Thanks for your help

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shinos are a bit of an enigma, with many variations. thin, thick, crawl, no crawl, carbon trap, flash, color......much is dependent on clay,glaze recipe, level and timing of reduction/oxidation very thin, thin, normal, thick, very thick, very very thick., placement in kiln, inclusions in clay, cooling rate, handling........ all create different and interesting effects


but this unknown and often inconsistent nature is what i've come to love

like marcia says test test test
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also with glazes with soda ash, how the glaze dries on the pot before its fired makes a difference. length of time from glazing to firing, humidity, how the water evaporates out of the raw glaze on the pot.

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Everyone's salt, soda and wood kiln fires uniquely . . . same kiln design will get different results with different people firing.  Talk with the kiln owner/firer and ask where the shino sweet spots are.  Then load accordingly.  If you are using a claybody formulated especially for a wood firing, you might want to adjust.  I think the general shino rules apply -- thin gets you orange, thick gets you crawling, bad reduction gets you snot-colors, etc.  Try Chris Gustin's recipes for shinos. 

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Thanks for all your good advice and information.  The soda and wood firings happen once/year for my group.  I am trying to learn something from each one of them but a year between experiences isn't ideal.  It is great to be able to tap in to your expertise.  Lin

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