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Help For Newbie Red Glaze


lillakiln

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Is this a commercial glaze?

may be a low fired glaze. Reds get lost when taken to higher temperatures sometimes. It depends on the glaze recipe and the firing temp recommended for that glaze.

May even be as simple as stirring the pot of glaze really thoroughly and then between brushfuls as well.

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Is this a commercial glaze?

may be a low fired glaze. Reds get lost when taken to higher temperatures sometimes. It depends on the glaze recipe and the firing temp recommended for that glaze.

May even be as simple as stirring the pot of glaze really thoroughly and then between brushfuls as well.

Thanks Babs, will keep trying. I really appreciate the advice. It is a commercial glaze/slip  Cesco AD1012 Chilli Red.  I tried it by itself and then under a clear glaze....so much to learn....on wards and upwards!!

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Reds are hard to get at Cone 6 since you are doing beads why don't you work with a earthenware and use low fire glaze which have great reds.  Denice

Great, thanks Denice............I have ordered a few more glazes including another red and will give it a go. Much appreciated.  Lilla.

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I have a red and an orange commercial glazes that say "do not fire with other glazes that contain copper".  Which is really useful.  NOT.

 

Very few commercial glazes state what they contain.  These two glazes we've fired: thick, thin, alone, in a bisque firing, with other glazes, and they rarely ever show any colour at all, more like a tinted clear glaze.  Given up on them, now use Potterycrafts ??Really Red?? - I think that's what it's called, which works great:

 

Bottom Poppy is from the Tower, top poppies I made, one is red glaze the other is red underglaze and clear on top.   ^04 bisque, ^06 glaze firing.

 

gallery_59202_704_124017.jpg

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Reds are hard to get at Cone 6 since you are doing beads why don't you work with a earthenware and use low fire glaze which have great reds.  Denice

 

I agree. Stoneware reds seem to be tricky, in my (limited) experience. In UK we don't do this 'cone' temp thing. We just do it in degrees Celcius. I can still vaguely remember degrees Fahrenheit from weather forecasts as a child (I'm nearly 55), I'm very much a beginner at ceramics! Luckily we have a brilliant class every week and a superb tutor in a well-equipped large pottery. Please don't laugh too much if I ask stupid questions!

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Reds are hard to get at Cone 6 since you are doing beads why don't you work with a earthenware and use low fire glaze which have great reds.  Denice

 

I agree. Stoneware reds seem to be tricky, in my (limited) experience. In UK we don't do this 'cone' temp thing. We just do it in degrees Celcius. I can still vaguely remember degrees Fahrenheit from weather forecasts as a child (I'm nearly 55), I'm very much a beginner at ceramics! Luckily we have a brilliant class every week and a superb tutor in a well-equipped large pottery. Please don't laugh too much if I ask stupid questions!

 

 

New Zealand commonly used the temperatures as well. Cones are a more honest way of giving results.

 

Here is your handy reference guide to write down:

∆06-04 (earthenware, about 1000°C), sometime earthenware is considered up to ∆1-4 (about 1100°C)

∆6, mid-fire, 1220°C

∆10, stoneware, 1300°C

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In UK we don't do this 'cone' temp thing. We just do it in degrees Celcius.

 

 

Sorry to disappoint you, but we do use cones in the UK.

 

Well what's the point? We are taught in the pottery to use degrees Celcius. Which fits in with the rest of the scientific world...makes sense to me.

PS - those poppies are absolutely brilliant. I'm going to give them a try.

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In UK we don't do this 'cone' temp thing. We just do it in degrees Celcius.

 

 

Sorry to disappoint you, but we do use cones in the UK.

 

Well what's the point? We are taught in the pottery to use degrees Celcius. Which fits in with the rest of the scientific world...makes sense to me.

 

 

Thermocouples measure temperature only. Cones measure the heat work done in the kiln. Temperature plus time. 

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Min says it.

If you do a fast firing to a said temp the effect on your glazes can be quite different as to if you were to do a slow firing to the same temp. and if you soak at that temp then this will also effect your glaze outcome. Work done is really important for ceramics, much than the temp reached. ANd cones are another safe guard if say your thermocouple goes haywire.

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I always liken temperature vs cones to baking.

 

You wouldn't put a fruit cake in the oven, switch the oven on and switch it off when it reached the cooking temperature.  You wait for it to cook for a certain amount of time.  Same with ceramics.  The cones prove that the right amount of heat was applied to the pots for the right amount of time - heat-work as stated by Min and Babs.  (And thought by lots of others too.... :) )

 

No, you don't need to use them, but by using them you can be sure that you have repeated (as best as you can) what you did last time.

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I always liken temperature vs cones to baking.

 

You wouldn't put a fruit cake in the oven, switch the oven on and switch it off when it reached the cooking temperature.  You wait for it to cook for a certain amount of time.  Same with ceramics.  The cones prove that the right amount of heat was applied to the pots for the right amount of time - heat-work as stated by Min and Babs.  (And thought by lots of others too.... :) )

 

No, you don't need to use them, but by using them you can be sure that you have repeated (as best as you can) what you did last time.

fairly new to pottery as well, but is that statement about cones and heat work true??? I only question because cones ( to my understanding ) will start to melt at the right temp but not melt fully if the temp stays even regardless of the time its held at that temp.. So  my understanding of cones was to ensure the kiln was getting to temp but not over, hence the use of 3cones 1 below your target ,1 at target and 1 above target temp.. Again I could be totally wrong???

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I always liken temperature vs cones to baking.

 

You wouldn't put a fruit cake in the oven, switch the oven on and switch it off when it reached the cooking temperature. You wait for it to cook for a certain amount of time. Same with ceramics. The cones prove that the right amount of heat was applied to the pots for the right amount of time - heat-work as stated by Min and Babs. (And thought by lots of others too.... :) )

 

No, you don't need to use them, but by using them you can be sure that you have repeated (as best as you can) what you did last time.

 

fairly new to pottery as well, but is that statement about cones and heat work true??? I only question because cones ( to my understanding ) will start to melt at the right temp but not melt fully if the temp stays even regardless of the time its held at that temp.. So my understanding of cones was to ensure the kiln was getting to temp but not over, hence the use of 3cones 1 below your target ,1 at target and 1 above target temp.. Again I could be totally wrong???Cones don't measure temperature at all. They measure heat work. They're formulated to consistently melt once a certain set of conditions are met. If you look at the cone chart from Orton, you'll see that they give different equivalent temperatures for different firing rates. It's because the heat energy needs time to transfer to the ceramic materials and melt them fully. Just because the air in the kiln is a certain temperature doesn't mean the heat energy has had a chance to permeate evenly all the way through the clay and glazes. Time is important.

 

You use three cones to see where in the rough firing range your work has landed, and how that varies throughout the kiln.

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I always liken temperature vs cones to baking.

 

You wouldn't put a fruit cake in the oven, switch the oven on and switch it off when it reached the cooking temperature. You wait for it to cook for a certain amount of time. Same with ceramics. The cones prove that the right amount of heat was applied to the pots for the right amount of time - heat-work as stated by Min and Babs. (And thought by lots of others too.... :) )

 

No, you don't need to use them, but by using them you can be sure that you have repeated (as best as you can) what you did last time.

fairly new to pottery as well, but is that statement about cones and heat work true??? I only question because cones ( to my understanding ) will start to melt at the right temp but not melt fully if the temp stays even regardless of the time its held at that temp.. So my understanding of cones was to ensure the kiln was getting to temp but not over, hence the use of 3cones 1 below your target ,1 at target and 1 above target temp.. Again I could be totally wrong???
Cones don't measure temperature at all. They measure heat work. They're formulated to consistently melt once a certain set of conditions are met. If you look at the cone chart from Orton, you'll see that they give different equivalent temperatures for different firing rates. It's because the heat energy needs time to transfer to the ceramic materials and melt them fully. Just because the air in the kiln is a certain temperature doesn't mean the heat energy has had a chance to permeate evenly all the way through the clay and glazes. Time is important.

 

You use three cones to see where in the rough firing range your work has landed, and how that varies throughout the kiln.

 

Makes sense! Thank you for clarification and education. Although have been potting for a little while, I have yet to run or  setup my own kiln so I am still a little ignorant to all the nuances.

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In UK we don't do this 'cone' temp thing. We just do it in degrees Celcius.

 

 

Sorry to disappoint you, but we do use cones in the UK.

 

Well what's the point? We are taught in the pottery to use degrees Celcius. Which fits in with the rest of the scientific world...makes sense to me.

 

 

Thermocouples measure temperature only. Cones measure the heat work done in the kiln. Temperature plus time. 

 

So that's degrees Celcius plus a clock? Cones.... pah...

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