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Newb Question


Kye

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I can't find an answer on google, so i'm hoping to find some insight here :)

 

I am new to pottery, taking lessons at a studio that uses only a cone 10 reduction kiln. 

Yes.. I understand that this is great for durability.. but honestly I was sad when I realized I wouldn't be making bright yellow, green,purple and pink colours ect. I wanted to make very cheery items. 

 

So.. I thought I'd ask.. for a few select pieces.. in order to benefit from the cone 10 advantages, if I took a bowl, and either left it unglazed or clear glazed, then fired it at 10 in this shop, then took it to another shop and paid them to let me do a bright colour cone 6 glaze, would that work? 

 

Can you fire something cone 10 and then re fire at cone 4-06 just for glazing purposes? ? 

 

Some may ask why not just take everything to the cone 6 place.. I don't have a car and it's very inconvenient to get to the place that does do the cone 6 firing. AKA 20 minute walk after a 30 minute bus ride. But I might do it for the piece I have in mind. 

 

Thanks. 

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At cone 10, your clay will become vitrified -- making it very difficult to apply glaze to and then fire again at cone 6.  Not impossible, but difficult and not always successful. 

 

Check out John Britt's book The Complete Guide to High Fire Glazes -- it has a number of recipes for cone 10 glazes that provide bright colors; perhaps you can talk your studio into mixing a couple.  Or, you could look for commercially prepared cone 10 glazes.  Or, for your first firing, try some underglazes on test tiles to see how the color performs and then use those that are successful with a clear glaze in subsequent firings.  You can get colors at cone 10 -- reduction or oxidation. 

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you are not in the USA so i do not think you can get the brand of underglazes we can.   i have tested a number of them and found only the pinks and purples are really fugitive at cone 10.

 

look at the bottom color chart to see which of the ones in the top one, fired at cone 6, did not make it to cone 10.  look at the alphabetical label to see a particular color result. 

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Kye: You have my full sympathy both for your color dilemna and your firing issues. I love bright, saturated color too. However, learning to work with the temperature at your studio will be very useful to you even if you change to a lower temperature when you get the chance. I had originally planned to fire at Cone 05 but once I started to see what you could do with Cone 5 as well as the improved durability it won me over. I haven't been able to find all the colors I want, and the red I use is a teensy bit more orange than I prefer but I've learned to cope. ;) I still transport everything across town to my dad's studio since mine is still not wired for my kiln ... don't know what I would do if I had to bus and walk my pieces!

http://www.bigceramicstore.com/glazes/high-fire-cone-10.html

Each of the companies represented with its' own link on that page has multiple Cone 10 glazes available in a variety of colors, including some very vibrant ones. If you're not in the US you would obviously need to look for something more local but hopefully you can find what you're looking for! 

 

I love the little birds you posted. 

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  • 4 weeks later...
 

Hi again everyone.
I just wanted to come back in here and say thanks! I'm going to attempt to post some photos of my work "so far". I managed to get one very teeny yarn bowl done and gifted, mainly because I just couldn't wait any longer to spill the beans to my friend about what I was up too. I've since learned more great tricks from great people and am throwing bigger and better with every visit. If the pics don't work now I'll try to fix it from home.

 

So the pictures are shown in reverse chronological order. The small bowl and birds are the only thing that have made it through the whole process. The bisque bowls I first saw last night, and the larger bowl I trimmed last night, sadly it seems to have warped a good deal. Next time I'll try to do the lettering upside down, perhaps that will be easier on the rim.

 

Next up.. more of the same and trying out slip trailing as a raised decoration, also waiting on an MKM roller to make some detail around the top edge. I just can't get enough studio time!

 

Edit: Horray for keyboards! Cellphones are not easy to post from..

OldLady - you are indeed a treasure. I can't thank you enough for sharing that pallet! I will find a way to get my hands on some of those glazes!

bciskepottery - Thanks for the recommendation. My local library had the book, of course the colour I loved the most, I think called Candy Apple Green around page 100 in a photo, was not posted in the book sadly.

GiselleNo5  - Thanks for the link and the compliment!

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you are not in the USA so i do not think you can get the brand of underglazes we can.   i have tested a number of them and found only the pinks and purples are really fugitive at cone 10.

 

look at the bottom color chart to see which of the ones in the top one, fired at cone 6, did not make it to cone 10.  look at the alphabetical label to see a particular color result. 

 

I notice in some of the top pallet colours you wrote an "X". Do you not recommend using those? Do they run? What does the x signify?

Thanks!

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look at the bottom color chart to see which of the ones in the top one, fired at cone 6, did not make it to cone 10.  look at the alphabetical label to see a particular color result. 

 

Thank you for this ~ What an excellent way to do glaze testing! I just inherited about two dozen home made glazes from a potter friend, so am about to go on a glaze-test frenzy. I love the way you've set these up for an easy at-a-glance reference. :)

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kye, somehow the answer i thought i posted to your question about the X did not appear.  sorry, sometimes i get so wrapped up in typing i do not hit the darn POST box and my answer goes to the great pile of useless data in the netherworld.

 

the X represents an empty bottle.  the test was made years ago and as i use them all up, i put an X over the ones that are gone.   these were tiny bottles of underglaze that i found on sale at a supplier.  one company bought out another and the old bottles with the old name were put on sale for 50 cents each.  i bought as much as i could carry home, several bottles of some colors, others only one was left so that color ran out.

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I can speak from recent experience: that Victoria green stain doesn't like reduction. It burns out. While many of the Mason stains will indeed survive come 10, only the most stable survive reduction. I second the notion of figuring out the aesthetic that cone ten offers if that is what is most easily available to you. Many beautiful things are possible.

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yep, underglazes work pretty well for bright colors in cone 10 reduction though the clear you  put over it will impact the colors. Same for some mason stains though some burn out.  

 

We have found that some spectrum glazes made for cone 6 still hold up at cone 10. There is one called tamale red that gives a bright red every time. We learned this from a ceramic supply store in san francisco and from one of our tile makers who tests everything meticulously.  Its nice to have friends who like to do test tiles - which i hate doing.   rakuku

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