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Custom Tile Setters


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I have a high alumina clay recipe I had planned on using for making custom tile setters. I had slab rolled several pieces for testing purposes and fired several small shelves with it. It has excellent thermal shock and structural integrity, however I have hit a major problem. I made two of the five molds I need that have an open web design to allow heat to flow to the back of the tile as well. The design was 10" x 10", with cross bars to support the center and allow heat/cool equally. It also had built in 1.5" legs so I could stack them without the use of kiln posts. The problem is the legs will not release from the mold without breaking. The recipe is roughly 1/3 alumina, 1/3 EPK. and 1/3 OM4 ball clay. I am open to other recipes including alumina or zirco would work too. Thoughts?

>> Firing mostly to cone 6, but also used for cone 10.  3/4" thick. Open back design mandatory...

Yes, I sprayed the mold with release...

Nerd

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Well Mark, you just reminded me of something that I often forget: sometimes the answers are the simplest. Got so stressed over formulation, overlooked the easy solution of mechanics. TY  Although if someone has a better formula.. that can be included as well. Already have 300lbs of alumina sitting here, so the formulation has to include it.

 

Nerd

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If these sitters work at your temps and do not warp or slump-that means the formula is good and the mold form needs adjusting.

A few decades ago I had a slip business on the side and the forms had large cut outs and tended to slump at cone 10. The easy fix was add 10% EPK which had enough alumina to stop the slumping.

My only other suggestion is reduce the alumina and add mullite which comes in lots of mesh sizes. It great for furniture bodies and adds more strength 

I would include some in any furniture body.

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Mark:

The design allows me to flip them over and stack- to keep the tendency to slump under control. Instead of doing a web open back; I have also considered doing 1/4 to 3/8 holes- like a large open mesh. Thoughts? Trying to figure out which will have the best mechanical strength.

Nerd

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  • 2 weeks later...

This topic got me thinking.  What would be the best way to make some racks for slab relief sculptures?  

 

As one of the first projects, in my clay class, I have the students roll out a 1/2" slab.  From there, they carve in and add on elements.  They are required to have both low and high relief, so some portions stick out quite a bit.  

 

I'm looking to make some racks so I can save space, when firing.  In some case, I can arrange two, maybe three on top of each other.  But if I could get more out of the vertical space, that would be awesome.  I have a commercially made tile setter, but the spaces aren't big enough to use.

 

What type of clay would work?  I do low fire in my classroom, but also have Raku clay.  Would a Raku body be able to tolerate numerous low firings?

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Benzine:

 

Draw out the inside dimensions of your kiln: leaving a minimum of 1.5 to 2" around the perimeter for heat to travel uniformly. Then layout the remaining space with either one uniform type of setter, or a series of different patterns. I am designing four different patterns of setters, that I purposely plan on mixing in one kiln. Doing a layout drawing will help you to optimize kiln space and give you the limits of design.

 

Nerd

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  • 2 months later...

Well Mark:

Finally got the first setter done: ended up slab rolling the plate and then adding the legs. Going to cut the thickness of the plate down to 1/2 to 5/8 thick, and keep the legs at 3/4" for weight. Will have to make the legs 2" long, and then trim them after firing to level. Now, I only need to repeat this process 60-80 more times of various shapes.

 

Onward----Nerd

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