MatthewV Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 Building the control system is being involved. Very involved. Oh, the ultimate way of control would be reading from a flow meter the air and gas rates. That information would feed to controlling the valve setting. Know that a 1/2 open valve does not equal 1/2 of the flow. Gas flow meters are not too expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 John Speaking to your pet peeve the Griffen Grip after decades of trimming without one (yes I can tap center very fast) I use my giffen as a production tool that allows me faster trim times. It speeds up my production by lessing my trim time. I can see it for a student in a different light as they want to bypass the learning curve of learning to trim with tap centering or other methods which like throwing takes time to learn well. in this case Its not a good choice. But in my case its just like a power wheel or my peter pugger or car kiln a tool to help me produce and be a bit easier on the old bones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JBaymore Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 I can see it for a student in a different light as they want to bypass the learning curve of learning to trim with tap centering or other methods which like throwing takes time to learn well. in this case Its not a good choice. Precisely my point. (You have the skills and knowledge to assess the use of the tool.) And this hits the reason that I see probably 90% of people looking at them.... to avoid important skill development. No question....... "The Grip" is a very well designed and engineered tool. There are other "short cut skills" similarities:......Think about how many questions come up about electric kiln firing stuff... because people buy a kiln with a computerized controller... and never learn ABOUT firing before that. They just hit "slow bisque" and wait for the magic to happen. Then where there are problems... they do not have a clue about why the problems are happening, or how to track down which problem it is, or how to solve it. So adding computerized controls too soon into a "learning potter's" development also allows a potential short-cut of learning. best, ......................john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 Yeh and then there is the problem of handing over the CONTROL to that gadget........or was that just me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrgpots Posted January 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 John, you are right that I need to develop my skills before considering automation. You are also right that my history on my conversion kiln colors my concerns. The only gas fired kiln around here is at the local university. Maybe I can ask to hang around during firing. I appreciate your throwing excercises as well as you telling how long a japanese potter has to throw nothing but cylinders. I admire all of dedicated potters' skills on the forum. Please don't give up on me. I think the next few months I willbe asking a lot of question. I am sure I will step on toes. Thanks for letting me bend you ear. Jed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srwexler Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 I'm teaching ceramics at a school with a Geil kiln with an automated controller. I'm in need of instructions on putting it into manual mode. I'm old school and don't like pushing a lot of buttons to get the gas to go up or down. The operating manual for the kiln is extremely perfunctory on how to accomplish this. Could someone instruct me step by step on how to put the controller into manual mode and just run the kiln? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 Best to call them as they have a few choices on controllers -the old one was DD the new ones can control damper-do not know yours but they will. GEIL KILNS7201 Clay AvenueHuntington Beach, CA 92648(800) 887-4345 (Toll Free)(714) 847-6135 (Phone)(714) 847-6145 (Fax) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Woodin Posted March 27, 2016 Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 David My fiends with old Giels use them with that older Giel DD control to oxidize as well to body temp where it holds until they can dial it Manuel into a reduction. They also dial it so its a fail safe shut off from that body point upward in case they fall asleep. I get all that but I thought the original poster here wanted all automated system. Sounds like you have your kiln set up like that Giel DD controller now as well. Hi Mark, If the original post was to fully automate a kiln including oxidation and reduction, than I read it wrong , because this becomes a very complicated thing to do. Also what kind of burners, venturi or forced air. As I posted earlier I only use automatic to get up to the body reduction, then I go to manual, which involves gas, air and damper adjustments. Industry usually doesn't want to go into reduction so automatic control is what they use. There should be an easy way to use any kiln in the manual mode if that is want the customer wants. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Woodin Posted March 27, 2016 Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 I'm teaching ceramics at a school with a Geil kiln with an automated controller. I'm in need of instructions on putting it into manual mode. I'm old school and don't like pushing a lot of buttons to get the gas to go up or down. The operating manual for the kiln is extremely perfunctory on how to accomplish this. Could someone instruct me step by step on how to put the controller into manual mode and just run the kiln? You should be able to control gas manually by placing the controller in manual mode which then reads the output to the gas valve. If you don't want to use the auto gas valve then there should also be a hand lever valve near the gas pressure gage. In that case with the hand valve shut off, put the controller on Manual, set to 100% output than you can slowly open the hand lever valve to get any gas pressure you want. If you have damper control than you will have to put that controller on manual, or disconnect the linkage and move the damper to where you want it. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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