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Estrin Pottery Wheel


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I've recently picked up an Estrin wheel, its a bit rusty but complete & in good working order. I'm taking it apart to clean it up & repaint it however I'm having a hard time removing the aluminum wheel. I've removed the set screws underneath that lock it to the shaft and sprayed it with WD40 and let it work in for a few days. I've tried spinning it off with the thought that it may be threaded on & I have been gently prying it while hitting with a rubber mallet, nothings budging. any ideas?

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I have to refer back to the days when I was working on my old MGB.  WD40 is a water displacement solution.  You need to go to an automotive store and get a spray can of a penetrating solution for rusty, frozen bolts and nuts.  Spray, tap, tap, tap, let sit spray,  tap, tap, tap, let sit for several days.  If aluminum to steel it might take a while.  I would even try a little heat. 

 

Common penetrating agents:  PB Blaster
Liquid Wrench
Kano Kroil
ATF-Acetone (50/50 mixture)    (Automatic Transmission Fluid/Acetone )

 

Had to go to my MG Forum to remember the names

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Aluminum and steel are a bad combination; they can stick together with corrosion really well,

The first thing....Does it really need to come apart? If it doesn't you may do more damage than it's worth.

If the wheel head shaft mating surface gets screwed up your wheel head may get wobbly....and it sucks throwning from the hump all the time.

Spray some penetrating oil or use regular oil in the set screws. Then screw the set screws in, this will force some oil in around the shaft.

let the penatrating oil do its job. I have had aluminum and steel parts take a week. Thats a week of spraying them down twice a day.

Try multiple types of penetrating oil some work better for certain things. I have set things in kerosene bath.

I'm not sure about Estrin, but sometimes wheels are press fit or a tapered fit. Heat may have to be used to expand the metal to get it apart.

If it is threaded you should see some indication somewhere. Try looking in the set screw holes to see if the shaft is threaded.

good luck

we would ike to hear how it goes

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if, as you say, it is in "good working order" think hard about why you want to take the wheelhead off.  you might destroy it in "fixing" it.  just to make it pretty is not a valid reason.  just to understand how it works is not a valid reason. think hard.  there is a reason people say, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it.".

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Thanks all for the good reply's, I tried many of these suggestions prior to posting my question so I have resigned myself to the fact that the wheel is staying where it is.

I appreciate the fact that this is a piece of equipment that will constantly be getting dirty but its easier to wipe off something smoothly painted as apposed to encrusted with rust. I picked this up with my kids & on the long drive home they suggested it be painted yellow & purple so that's what we have.

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If you are comfortable with a propane torch (think WalMart camping section bottle of propane and a torch head that screws right onto it from Lowes/Home Depot/ maybe even Walmart), heat up the aluminum around the shaft, as it expands at a faster rate than steel.  This should give you enough wiggle -even if corroded - to break it free and get it off.  Be safe, wear gloves, and all that other stuff. 

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