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Raising The Dead


Benzine

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Years ago, when I was still relatively new to the forum, I asked about getting my kiln up and running.  I got some good responses/ advice, but never too it much further than that.

 

Sooooo, here I am, a couple years older, and ready to go.  Some of it has to do, with me finally getting the "OK" from my insurance provider.  

 

This time, I'm including some pictures of what I'm working with.  I have the tag, a general exterior shot, the control panel, the plug and the interior.

 

So basically, I'd like to know, what I need to do, in order to get this up and running.  I do still need to run a line, to the location.  The breaker box, for my house is about twenty to thirty feet away.  I do have a small sub panel in the studio space, as the previous owner had a wood shop set up in there.  He has some "Small 220" outlets, that he had for his larger equipment.  I would have no issue possibly using a couple of those.  I have nothing I'd ever use them for otherwise.  Because that sub panel is a whole four feet away from the kiln.  Though, to properly run the line, it would be longer, to run the wire along the wall and such.  But still, better than twenty to thirty feet.

 

The plug end, is just ridiculous, and I'd like to replace it.  Though I could also hard wire it into the panel, which I know is many times recommended, to avoid plug corrosion and potential fire.

 

I noted in the picture of the control panel, that the top and middle ring connections, do not fit together all the way.  How can I remedy that?

 

The elements look in fairly good shape.  No breaks or sagging, as far as I can tell.  

 

The brick is in OK shape.  Some chunks missing, either from rough loading/ unloading, or possibly element replacement.  As I noted in the interior shot, the big chunks of brick sitting on the bottom, are not from the wall bricks.  They just came with the kiln.

 

The kiln bottom looks good.  It has some small cracks, but no different than most other, used, kilns I've seen.

 

I do believe this kiln, at one time, had an Envirovent connected.  Sadly that didn't come with it, but I received a folder with a lot of the kiln info, and it had vent info with it.  There are also some holes drilled in the kiln floor and lid.  And if that wasn't enough evidence, it has a sticker on the metal of the lid, that says "Envirovent"...

 

I think that's about it.  I should note, that I plan to fire to cone 6 in this.

 

Any help, suggestion will be appreciated.

 

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Since you are only four feet from the box, it would make sense to run a line from there and put in a breaker that would handle at lest 40 amps. You are right... the plug has got to go. If you are having it wired by an electrician, they will provide the correct plug for the wattage. If it was a hobby wood shop then the 220 outlets are probably only 20 amps max. You just couldn't plug in without a re-wire anyway.

 

As for the gaps between the rings, as long as the refractory flush and  is sealed (and it looks like it is) and you are getting full contact between the ring interconnections, a little air gap won't hurt. Might even help pull air into the box to cool it. Main thing is check the contacts to see that they seat fully.

 

The kiln is a little beat up but should do the job of cone 6. I've used worse.

 

Have you checked the resistance of the elements yet?

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Bob,

 

Running the power cord to the sub panel, would be idea, I just don't know if there is enough space to handle it.  That panel also has a couple things for our top floor (for some reason), including a window air, that runs off a small 220.

 

You're right, there is no way I can plug the kiln into the 220 outlets, that are there now.  They are much smaller, than my kiln plug, and like yous said, are no doubt a lower amperage.  

 

I will indeed be hiring an electrician to wire everything.  I consider electricity to be magic, and it confuses and terrifies me.  Funny enough, one of the local electricians has a couple kilns in their shop.  They used to run a slip casting business of all things.  They asked me one time if I wanted some molds.  I was like, "Haha...Nooooo."

 

No air would escape the space between the ring, but the electrical contact/ plug between the rings section is slightly exposed.  I'm told that is not ideal.

 

Yeah, it's not the best kiln, but I couldn't resist the price...

 

I have not checked the element resistance.  I do have a multimeter, but don't really know to do it.

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If elements need replaced, full set at Big Ceramics store is $196. Ceramic Fibre blanket to 2600F. is available as is the 2300F. This could be cut into strip and used between the sections to seal up if you feel you need to. Plug looks oxidized-replace. Looks like it may be a 6-50 50 amp plug. You may be even better off to get a full pluc and pig tail. You can get bricks cut at Euclid if interested in replacing brick on down the line. None of this is a big job, just $$.

 

good luck Ben,

Pres

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I actually have quite a bit of leftover fiber blanket, left over from my Raku kiln.  But I don't think there any gaps that would need it.

 

Replacing the plug, has always been the plan.  It will then be used as a home defense weapon.

 

Thanks Pres!

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You can get a new plug at the local big box store. An electrician will charge double. Same with a new breaker. Is there room in the breaker box for a new breaker? You haven't mentioned a vent. For future planning. Can you add a vent in the current location? Is there a place for the vent to exhaust and plug in? Good luck. I know how exciting it is. Wait till your first glaze firing.

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I was going to suggest the same thing. Remove any extra 220 plugs from service and disconnect the breakers then wire in a new breaker of the correct amperage to run your kiln. Ask an electrician how to do this all safely and it should be a fairly inexpensive thing to have him do. Just make sure he wires the new breaker with the correct wire gauge.

 

When I had mine wired there was an unused 30amp dryer plug in the basement so had that disconnected plus with the extra amp room in the box I had enough power to run my kiln. I wired into a sub panel as well and then had metal conduit run on the exterior of the wall with #8 wire in it. I did this so I can monitor the amount of heat building up, if there is any, and know I have an issue with the wire, whereas if I had it embedded in the wall there was no way to keep track of the wires heat stress condition.

 

Definitely replace your plug if it is oxidized and funky that can cause flame outs.

 

Don't know what to say about the exposed wire... Maybe take the sections off and refit to see if it can be fitted better together to get rid of the gap?

 

You are very brave taking on a remodel of a kiln, I would be much too chicken to do it.

 

T

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Just my nickel's worth of free advice here: If you plan on firing to ^6, remove your expansion ring first. I found out the hard way that these kilns [yours is nearly identical to mine, maybe a few years newer ] were never intended to fire to ^6 with the expansion ring in place. Doing so causes premature fatigue to the elements. So much so, that you'll get maybe 5 or 6 firings on a new set of elements and then poof! The dang thing will start taking 14 hours or more just to reach ^05.

 

It's fine to use the expansion ring when bisque firing, but not for anything over ^01. This information came straight from the kiln tech guy at my favorite supply house. Since this is the same guy that gets paid the big bucks for rehabbing kilns for a living, I trust his advice. He's probably forgotten more than I'll ever learn about them. ;)

 

Since my loads are never really all that big, I opted to just do away with my expansion ring. I still have it, in case I make something really big, someday. But for now, I keep it tucked behind the kiln.

 

Just pray you don't ever have to replace those 3-heat switches. Oooohheeee! BOY! Are them buggers EXPENSIVE!!! :o Had to replace just one on mine and I darn near broke the bank in doing it! ONE lousy switch! It was over $80!!! :blink: Compare that to about $145 for four new elements.....it boggles the mind!

 

Good luck with your rehab. You do know, now, that we fully expect to see pictures of what comes out of there! :lol:

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Ummm, need to jump in here with a quick correction of some misinformation... The electrical rating plate on the kiln shows 38.5 amps. The electric Code requires that appliances such as a kiln are to be fused at 125% of the rating. So that means a 50 amp circuit (breaker and wire gauge to match). Your electrician/former slipcasting ceramic artist will undoubtedly know this and put in the right stuff, but just wanted to put out there for all that, for kilns, the nominal electrical rating is just the starting point for additional calculations.

 

In addition to the other helpful hints already provided, you might consider asking the electrician to install a cutoff switch (similar to ones commonly used for servicing the outdoor component of an HVAC system) very near the kiln location   - no more than a few steps away, but not directly behind the kiln where you'd have to reach over/around the hot kiln to disconnect it. If there is an emergency and you need to shut it down immediately, you don't want to be running back into the house and trying to decide which breaker in the main panel to flip.

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I have had two of these 218 skutts. I'm not using any of them now. I would direct wire that to a 50 amp box on the wall. Forget about a plug. Its a 50 amp you need-have them use #6 wire -just as Dick White said you need the extra rating so a 40 amp is unsafe. Put a vent in as its in your basement. This kiln is only 2.5 inches thick so forget about cone 6 thats my take-if you are a cone 6 guy get another kiln with a 3 inch wall with zone control.

I only bisque in electric and very much part time at that. Not having a safety shut off timer is the downside on this model_ I put in a fire -right with relay to turn mine up without being there but thats just an add on.

The dead ring will work for bisque or low fire but cone 6 take it out.I'm not a fan of skutts anymore even though I have three of them. I think 3 inch walls should be mandatory theses days and having two shut off is best.

I would consider selling this one and upgrading but if you are a all hollows guy and wants to take back the dead go for it. Day of the dead is coming up so get to it soon.

Mark

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Chantay,  you reminded me that I forgot to include a picture of my vent.  As I mentioned, the previous owner used the space as a wood shop.  He cobbled together an air vent, to remove wood dust from the air.  I probably won't be able to use it, as is, as the frame is constructed out of fiberboard.  I'll get a pic posted, because it's hard to explain.  It does vent to the exterior, through an old coal shoot door.

 

As many of you mentioned, I will have to take the blank ring off, for at least the glaze firing, which is OK.  For some reason, I though it contained elements, but it does not.

 

Mark, great advice.  I do indeed plan on using it for Cone 6, but I understand why you suggest against it.  I'd like a different kiln, but I don't think that is in the cards.  Will it at least suffice for several years of Cone 6 firings?

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OK wrap that sucker in a fiber blanket-yes it will shorten the bacds life but who cares. It will get you there sooner to cone 6-I have seen it done so I know it works -then wrap that fiber in aluminum sheets or 12 inch aluminum flashing for durability-cheap and effective.

Mark

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The skin will not go back on if you do that.as its to fat-I suggested just wrap it over your skin and add another one from other materials. It will toast (ruin)your under skin over the years but who cares.

Mark

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Even with fiber wrap I wouldn't push that kiln to cone 6. It's only rated to 6, so you'll be maxing it out. What I would do is call Skutt to get some beefier elements in it that will bring it up to cone 10, like whatever they are currently using in the KM1018 models. It may require a new wiring harness, too, but those are cheap and easy to install. Then you'll be good to go for cone 6, and won't have to mess with blanket. 2.5 inch thick kilns can get to cone 6 just fine if they've got the right elements. Replace the broken bottom bricks at the same time and you'll have a good little kiln. The rest of the bricks seem to be in great condition, so you'll get many years of use out of it.

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Thanks Neil, that sounds like good solution.  How much would said elements cost, would you guess?  Would the elements require me to replace anything, other than the wiring harness?  

 

And there would be nothing wrong, with using the blank ring to bisque, and then taking it out to glaze fire right?

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Skutt elements are $50 each. Shouldn't need anything else, but talk to Skutt to be sure. Tell them what you're doing and they'll steer you straight.

 

Blank rings drop the peak firing temp down to about cone 1, so you'll have to remove it to go any hotter.

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Easy. Do one section at a time and make the new one look like the old one. No wiring diagram needed. It's all cut and crimp connections, so you'll need a good pair of wire cutters. Put a pin in each corner. Skutt probably has directions or a video on their web site.

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I found stretching elements the hardest part, replacing it into the kiln is easy. Skutt probably prestretch your elements anyway.

 

How are elements rated to a cone? I thought it was more down to the insulation as every element is that Kanthal A1 blend. I thought the thickness was down to the power needed so resistance needed, this balanced with having an element thick enough to withstand lots of firings.

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I found stretching elements the hardest part, replacing it into the kiln is easy. Skutt probably prestretch your elements anyway.

 

How are elements rated to a cone? I thought it was more down to the insulation as every element is that Kanthal A1 blend. I thought the thickness was down to the power needed so resistance needed, this balanced with having an element thick enough to withstand lots of firings.

 

Elements relate to the cone by how much heat they put out. His kiln is only rated to cone 6, but current models of that size are rated for cone 10. Yes, the wire is the same material, but different resistance will change the heat output.

 

The thickness of the walls may or may not be an issue. L&L makes a cone 12 kiln with 2.5" walls. If you want precise control, you need lots of power with as little insulation as possible.

 

Skutt elements do not need stretching. They come perfect, even bent at the corners.

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