neilestrick Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 So thinner elements = higher resistance = less amps = less kw = less heat? Or is it the opposite way? Will the swapping out the elements not upp the amperage draw? Not necessarily. It's not just about the thickness of the elements- the length of the element also determines the resistance. From what I know there's a range they try to get within for coils per inch. For whatever reason, the current models of the that size kiln have the same amperage according to their specs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted July 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 Are Skutt bricks pretty interchangeable, from model to model? I haven't had any luck finding any for my model online. I can find pretty much, everything else you mentioned Neil. And, as you said, they do indeed have videos, of how to fix/ change almost everything. Many here, would probably express some concern on the brick changing video. It says, that you can just flip the brick, if the bottom groove is worn, as long as the element grooves match up. But since the edges might not match up, it talks about sanding the bricks, but makes no mention of adequate ventilation, respirator, or just general caution about sanding kiln brick. Also, the element replacement video, mention kiln wire crimpers, for the connectors. I'm assuming any type of crimping device will work right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 All Skutt kilns with the same number of sides will have the same bricks. Any crimper will work. I use one like THIS, but not that expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted July 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 Excellent. You're a big help Neil! I wonder why the bottom bricks are the worst damaged? I can't think, that if it was from element changing, they'd be any worse than the rest. I would wager, that it was from when the kiln had been previously moved/ transported/ assembled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted July 29, 2015 Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 Does that kiln have a 4 prong or 3 prong plug? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted July 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 Three. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted July 29, 2015 Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 the damage could have been caused by someone using a forklift on it. ALMOST had that happen when i was building my house. nice young man knew more than i did, of course. he got a good lesson on who is the boss that day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted July 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 the damage could have been caused by someone using a forklift on it. ALMOST had that happen when i was building my house. nice young man knew more than i did, of course. he got a good lesson on who is the boss that day. DO NOT MESS WITH A POTTER'S KILN! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted July 29, 2015 Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 That skutt video on brick change out is almost a joke. I watched it last night-they did not mention anything about the elements -they show a kiln without elements and then when new brick is in they say plug kiln back in and test fire showing zero elements in bricks. Its like an 8 year old did the thing. As far as safety its only about electrical on the videos-what dust? sand away.You can view the 4 bricks that skutt uses as thee are only 4 styles in each kiln .That on thier site. Buy some better stainless screws to reasemble your kiln with from the hardware store-may cost you a few dollars but they will not rust out. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted July 29, 2015 Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 Always best to wait until the elements are out to replace the bricks. It's just a whole lot easier that way. It is possible to pull an element out a bit in order to remove the brick, but old elements are very brittle, and you run the risk of breaking it. Bottom rows always get broken out when the kiln is moved by someone who doesn't know what they're doing. I see it all the time. Hand trucks are deadly to kilns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted July 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 Mark, I thought that was funny as well. They talk about brick replacement, without any mention of the thing that heats the kiln, which is on top of the brick. Since you recommended "bigger" elements Neil, I can replace the bricks, before I put the new ones in. This kiln was donated to one of my cooperating instructors, from when I student taught. She contacted me a couple years into my teaching, and asked if I wanted it. She I think had it given it to her by a college. So it's changed hands a few times, and who knows how it was handled then. I've always been careful with it, which isn't hard, because in sections, it's not heavy at all. I think people don't realize how soft kiln brick is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted July 30, 2015 Report Share Posted July 30, 2015 One thing I should mention about these older Skutt kilns like yours is the plugs-not on the cord but the ones that fit between the sections. These older plug will wear out and are not repeat are not available from skutt anymore. They told me this in the 90's when their supplier switched compounds of the plugs. They switched to a new style at that time and no longer have any of the older ones. You may want to check that out before you dump a bunch of $ into it as the bigger elements are about $600-maybe the new style plugs of will work ask them about that. I have been using skutts since the early 70's and really want to get away from them. Now just think of the top person who ok'd that video on brick replacement-Maybe the thought was if we ignore the elements people will not ask what to do with them if you need a new brick?I'm still stunned they choose to give NO info on that in a how to. vid Its like a tire change video that ignores the lug nuts and bolts and rims.look the tire just comes off and you put the new one on-simple-remeber to turn engine off and stop car while doing this. Rant over. Someday Skutt free be me the cat in the hat said in his new book which kiln well it be and the whale said an L&L . mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted July 30, 2015 Report Share Posted July 30, 2015 Talk to Skutt on what needs to be done to get that kiln up to cone 10. New elements are $50 each- you shouldn't need anything fancier than that. If you still have the interbox plugs, you can hard wire them. Skutt will want to sell you a kit with new hinged boxes, but it's not really necessary if you now how to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted July 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2015 Neil, I've been meaning to take pictures of the kiln, with the red covers off, to expose the inner wiring. Yeah, I don't want to buy something, if I really don't need it. I'm good at saying "No" to places, trying to sell me extras or add ons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronfire Posted July 31, 2015 Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 I just rebuilt my scutt 231 and replaced all 6 elements and about 10 bricks. The kiln works well with even heat. The top and bottom elements are different than the centre ones to help even out the heat, I think yours is the same. I would not bother with the centre section with no elements, it will be a pain to change it in and out all the time as well as high risk for damaging the bricks. Your lower bricks where most likely damaged by moving when kiln walls where slid on the base. I broke several like this when I moved my kiln now I know better. If you feel the connector plugs between the rings are bad you an always direct wire them and bypass the plugs but this will mean not dissembling the sections without having to undo the wiring. My plugs on the 50 year old 231 work well, just polish the male plug up with a Dremel wire wheel and electrical cleaner for the female side. I do not pull my sections apart or fear of breaking bricks, the connector clamps for the rings where broken so I used plumber straps and permanently attached each ring together with 3 straps and screws. Hope this helps, good luck and have fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted August 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 So on this "Lazy Sunday", I had some time, and finally took pictures of the wiring. If you look in the gallery I linked to earlier, they will be there. From my untrained eye, the wires look good. They don't seem crunchy, even with bending, and no missing wire insulation. I should note, I removed the sitter tube, so I could fully pull the casing off. So does everything look OK? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Bridge Pottery Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 Looks like they will work to me. There are some wire marks on the case of the top photo, can't tell if it is just dust or slightly singed from hot wires. I have hot wire paranoia from my old kiln. Take a good look at all the connectors/connections. They will probably go first and cause issues. It's fun to wire a kiln and the wire wasn't that expensive if I remember right. You can either use it till it fails or start with a new setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted August 24, 2015 Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 Looks good to me as well. The place where it gets crispy and fails is those connectors right at the element connection and yours looks good. I just replaced and element in my 1227 and thats where it failed at the white porcelain connection.Just fixyour old plug situtaion and you are good to go. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted February 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Hey folks, just bumping my own topic, instead of making another. The Elementary Art teacher in the district, found a kiln identical to mine, in the basement of their building. The previous teacher in the building never used it. No one remmebers the last time it was fired. Thus far, he has been brining his ceramic projects to my room at the High School to fire them. Anyway, he tried firing it, and said the top elements don't glow. We can probably replace them eventually, but he has a load to fire next week. Will the kiln make it to 05 with only the bottom elements working? I told him I'd stop by later today to take a look. I'm not a kiln expert by any means, but was just going to give e elments a visual once over for sagging and worn spots. Thanks All! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 I would say yes it will just take longer. My 1227 made 08 it just took a lot longer when the top element was dead. Thats how I discovered the problem was longer fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 If it's a 3 ring kiln and 2 rings are out, it won't get hot enough. If it's a 2 ring kiln, there's a small chance the bottom section will get to temp, but it'll be cold on top. Could be a connection problem, not elements. That's a quicker fix, since you don't always need to order parts for that. Could also be a switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 After looking at the manufacturers electrical label: you have a 240V - 9600Watt kiln. You will require a 60 amp breaker, a Nema 6-50R outlet/plug and 6/3 wire. Not seen the electrical sub-panel but from experience I suspect it is 60 amps total. (most sub panels are) Do not try to cheat on the electrical, this kiln draws alot of wattage. The lamp cord electrical plug-in is not even close- not to mention it is only 120V. Nerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted February 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 So I stopped by the Elementary and inspected the kiln. There were some elements hanging out a bit, but not because of worn elements. The brick is, overall, in great shape. But some of the element grooves were broke, hence the elements sagging. Initially, I didn't think the top elements were going either. But eventually they did appear to be coming on. I think the other teacher just didn't see them glowing as well, because they aren't in the shade, like the bottom elements are. So I just told him to give the kiln a good vacuuming, and get some pins, to hold the elements back against the brick. I think it should last him a good while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 benzine, that center ring without elements in you own kiln will keep the kiln from reaching the rated cone 6 temp. ask neil, he has said it often. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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