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Using Fresh Leaves For Making Molds


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If you are still looking for leaves I can send you some from the great white north!

 

Diablo Nine Bark:

diablo

diablo2

Wild Rasberry:

Ras

 

Weeping Mulberry?:

mulbuerry

 

 

These may be a little smaller than  you are used to. The rasberry is interesting if you use some of the stem as it has lots of little tiny thorns on it.

 

If you would like any of these please let me know I can harvest them before fall sets in here.

 

Kevin

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thank you, kevin.  have seen the others but what is diablo nine bark? and where is the great white north?

 

 they are all interesting possible areas to explore.  maybe someone else would like to do this kind of thing, i am working with a large number of molds already and really do not have the time to pursue a new family of molds.  there are 4 events i need to get ready for in the next few months and i am already behind.  there was a small fair last weekend and many of my new items are now gone.  time to make a lot more.  i found that i cannot sell what i don't have in stock.  how strange :wacko:

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thank you, kevin.  have seen the others but what is diablo nine bark? and where is the great white north?

 

 

Diablo Ninebark is a dark purple shrub that grows 10-12' high and about the same around. The "ninebark" comes from the fact that the mature branches shed or have exfoliating bark that looks completely different from the new growth that is shiny. It is a lovely shrub and does even have some white flowers in the spring. Easy to grow.

 

I live in Northern Michigan.

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nancylee: Haven't tried this myself, but the following suggests that one way is to make a

negative impression in plaster, then take a latex positive from that.

 

Using a big leaf.

 

 

Pre-treating leaves to flatten them.

http://sculpting.wonderhowto.com/how-to/make-leaf-imprint-tile-plaster-mold-247573/

 

Peter

 

Wot, no dust mask?!?!?

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My daughter has a horse chestnut tree in her front yard.  The leaf clusters have 5 to 7 leaves with strong veining and serrated edges.  the clusters vary in size from 4" to 9" inches across.   There are not many chestnuts left in the U.S.  The leaves will be turning in the next few weeks. If anyone would want some,, I can get them.

 

Jedpost-26461-0-83174200-1440200288_thumb.jpg

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nancylee: Haven't tried this myself, but the following suggests that one way is to make a

negative impression in plaster, then take a latex positive from that.

 

Using a big leaf.

 

 

Pre-treating leaves to flatten them.

http://sculpting.wonderhowto.com/how-to/make-leaf-imprint-tile-plaster-mold-247573/

 

Peter

Thank you, Peter!

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thank you, Jed, horse chestnut trees are growing nearby and i really like their leaves.    it is nice to see that there is an interest in working this way.  making a mold of a fresh  leaf allows me to use them all winter long.

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Nancy, I have made many rhubarb leaf moulds from latex which I get from my pottery supplier. The instructions say paint on many layers, letting them dry between each. I am a bit impatient so I pour it on and spread it around fairly evenly with my fingers. Gloves would be good. The thick centre vein is tricky so I keep pulling up the latex over it to get a thick layer. After the first layer has dried I check the thickness visually because I don't want to peel the leaf off too soon. If it isn't creamy and opaque I put more on. Sometimes I even add more the next day. It is best to do this outside because of the ammonia in it. I usually do it in a board so I don't get drips on anything important. I use the underside of the leaf to get the most veining and wrinkles which means the clay leaf will look like the the top side of the original leaf.

To use it, I make a 1/4" slab, place the mould on top and press in the texture with my pony roller. Because it is stretchy I can tug at it to keep it flat which you can't do with the real leaf.

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hello, ginny.  nice to meet a new member who wants to be helpful.  thank you.

 

the hibiscus leaves i use are heart shaped and have great veining.  is that the shape of yours?  are you able to post a picture of one?  where are you?

 

the inquisition is over now. :)

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Is anyone willing to share their mold making techniques? I've never done this and don't even know where to start!

 

Technique #1

Start with a plastic mixing bowl.  (With plastic you don't need a mould release.  Mould release is ONLY used to release your original model from the paster mould, NEVER when using the mould with clay.)  Mix the plaster - find instructions on CAD or YouTube.  Fill the bowl with plaster.  When the plaster is set, tip the plaster lump out, you now have a hump mould to make bowls.  With a hump mould you mustn't leave the clay on it too long or it will split as it shrinks and dries. They are great for weaving baskets or coils or..... where you want to etch/carve..... the outside more than have a fancy inside.

 

Watch this space for more techniques when I have a bit more time, (and dad has gone home !!)

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chilly is right, working with plaster is fairly easy once you do the first one.  my use of molds is different.

 

 i find interesting leaves with a great shape and veining.  if the raw leaf works, vein side down, as a flat tray, i might put a number of them on a slab of raku clay and make a mold.  designing the most pleasing layout is the fun part.  pressing the leaves into the raku clay is the work. after it is fired to cone 04, it is ready for use. 

 

to use the mold, i roll out a slab of clay and press it very firmly onto the fired flat raku clay mold.  this picks up the shape and veining and whatever i add to the original mold, like a dragonfly. (people seem to buy anything with a dragonfly on it.)   the mold might be fairly large and i can use any part of it for any shape or size tray or plate.  so all of them, seen when finished, look similar but they are not identical.  spraying the glaze makes them different also.

 

a couple of tips if you want to try this.  raku clay is more forgiving than my regular clay when it comes to making the original mold.  my usual work is thinner than a lot of potters choose to work but it is a very strong stoneware and how thick is a piece of bone china, anyway?  i do not aim to make a thick, heavy, STONEware platter, tray or whatever. the mold is thicker and needs to be, hence, raku clay.  

 

put some foam rubber under it when rolling a slab onto it.  use a pony roller and work the slab into the deep parts of the  mold.  you only get one chance to get it firmly shaped.  if it lifts up off the mold, you are done.  no second chances until you roll out a new slab.  sometimes a very dry mold will make the clay slab pull out too early, if so, a slight dampening of the mold will help keep the slab down.

 

once the slab is finished picking up the pattern, you can shape it into any form you like.  this is where a good collection of plastic forms comes in handy.  some forms are really ugly looking but if the shape is correct, use it.

 

without much of an investment in time or trouble, you might find you like working this way as much as i do.  :unsure:

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I make my hump and slump moulds from clay. I roll a 1/2" slab, spread cornstarch all over and put cornstarch side in or on, depending on which shape I want. If it is a high curve I will get ripples which I push and smooth. I usually try to have both the inside and outside of the mould work so after getting the first surface smooth and after it has stiffened a bit I take it out (or off) and smooth the other side. I might have to put clay into spots where there had been a ripple. I use ribs to really smooth. I bisque fire it and it is ready to go. When using it  you can put your clay right in or over. If you are using it as a hump, remember what Chilly said, don't leave it on too long. Because the mould is made from a 1/2" slab it is much lighter than a solid plaster mould.

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Re leaf moulds

The reason I like my latex ones is you do have a second chance. You can lift it up a bit to see how you are doing as you are using the pony roller. You can arrange a variety of smaller leaves on your slab and get a montage. However if you want the same pattern of leaves for a series this would be a bit more difficult.

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This time of year has me studying 'other people's gardens' to see who has the nicest leaves.  People look at me as if I am demented when I say I' covet their sunflower leaves and could I please just have several leaves?...I really am not interested in the seed heads'.  Today I made a leaf run and now am out to the garage to roll clay and make the impressions.  Careful work to see how many slabs I can get before the leaves rip.  Leaf bowls add a certain class to a serving table too.

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Boy what a pain adding photos! here is a leaf I found. this one is turning but most are green. Heavily veined, waxy and very sturdy.This one is small , maybe 5-6 inches across. I have since found a source that has maybe10 inches across.I don't really know how to impress them, did dust the slab w corn starch. and I don't know the name, so if anyone can enlighten that would be great. Tell me if you want some old lady, I would be more than happy to mail you some....

 

 

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