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I have been asked to make a sink, which will sit atop the bench. It is to be an outdoor hands wash thingie, draining into a hose under the bench.

Being a one of for me, and having explained to my friend the shrinkage etc  and my reluctance to pursue a perfect fi to perfection any standard sink fittings, it will still need a phlange and downpipe attached to protrude through and under the bench. So I will make a large bowl, footed, with a hole in the middle around which the clay downpipe will attach. Being a glazed bowl, and thus not able to be fired rim down is there a glue that anyone recommends to attach the clay pipe part after the firing or would you attach it at leather hard stage and hope for balance in the glaze firing?

Or any other suggestions?

Thanks.

lazy I know but time is precious.

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You might try making a flange for a metal or plastic attachment. If it needs repaired a standard fitting will be easier to replace. Once you have tested and know your shrink rate, it's a pretty accurate way to size a flange. Plumbing fittings for a sink leave you a lot of extra playing room. If your hole is 1/8" oversized, you will probably be ok.

 

A good quality silicon would work. There have been some other adhesive reccomendations in the past forum posts for outdoor sculptures that might even work better.

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You may try looking through this strand that includes a video and a few pictures of finished sinks. All in all the advice Mug gives you is good. I really would not work on a separate pipe, but use standard fitting with the seals that they entail.

 

 

http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/6630-anybody-ever-make-a-sink/

 

best of luck,

Pres

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Neil makes sinks.

I have made a dozen or so.

buy your hardware and make the hole so it strinks to that harware.

Make your bowl thick and have a wide foot. The hole is the key part.

I would stay clear of any clay downpipe-use metal-you can get chrome or brass

The metal flange on the inside will need to be recessed so figure that a swell.

when finished this goes togather use plumbers putty.

if you make any pipes with clay you can use silicone to seal them but I would avoid that.

I hade posted photos a few years back-I may have tarshed them as I needed space for new photos.

Mark

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Another option would be after bisque firing to drill out the holes needed using a diamond hole drill.  I had done this with Glass and cannot see any reason it would not work with ceramic.  Remember to drill slowly and have water flowing around the drilling to prevent excessive heat build up.  Once the holes are drilled than do you glazing and glaze firing.  Standard sink parts will then fit like a glove unless you put too much glaze in the holes.  But even if you do you can re drill the holes.

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The inside flange will need to be recessed otherwise water will not drain all the way.

This inside flange is usually different depending on brand.-Head to a store and take a tape measure and calipers.

It will all become clear when you have the parts in hand.

The hole can be larger than you need a bit which will make it easier to calculate.

I would make the holes when leather hard.Cut the inner flange then as well.This will be the hardest part.

Mark

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It will all become clear when you have the parts in hand.

 

OOOOOh I can't wait for the aha moment. You're writing to a person who labels all things thingies or thingie ma bobs, driven one person im my close proximity to white hair at a young age.

BUT I will venture forth with all advice in hand, if not head , yet!

Could be my next thingie, sink making!

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I now realise that although it seems, on some days, that some part of me has been immersed in a sink from day one, I have not ever really looked at one.

SO first call is to look at sinks from both sides, or all sides.

pres,

did you mean to place a link, or for me to search?

You are all telling me in one nice way or another that I do have to figure shrinkage, so I'll go figure.

Just as well I am, some times, a not for profit person..... that's what friends are for, right??

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Babs this subject was covered well a few years ago-you may want to search for it-thats what Pres was saying.

If you want I can go shoot some photos again of my installed sink or my box of new sink parts for making one.I can do this after the 4th of July.

I assume you do not want an overflow?Thats the thingy that lets the water out when you step on you thingy and forhet to turn off the water.

I'm having fun with this thingy talk as in my world there are no thingys

Mark

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I have seen your  overflow thingie when i did a search with sinks as the keyword, and read the old post. so where did that fit in ? Obviously below the level of the sink, attached to the downpipe with the small sidelug joined by plastic tubing to teh overflow gusset thing you have added to the back of the sink. A beech of thing to clean...... Why did you manufacture that? Not retailed??  Not necessary in my pot as it is going to be outside and I hope in this drought stricken neck of the woods no one leaves a tap running.

Some of the videos mentioned were posted on you tube were not available to me, yeh <_<  the bit where you rebate the bottom of sink to fit the other thingie into, there you go rebate or recess??

If you were to photograph the inside of the sink with the recessed centre and the sink form underneath with the flange into which/ overwhich the plumbing downpipe  is attached that would be brilliant. Is this like an exaggerated inner ring of a footed platter? Therefore has to be the same depth of the foot of the bowl of the sink?

SOrry thinking at the keyboard here. Must stop.

Babs

Not sure on this small island off aus whether they sell the sink thingie, haven't looked for one but thought most sinks come with that bit already there.in it...

Gotta go look with my eyes turned on.

Tax time here I need every distracion.

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are there hardware stores in Australia?  they probably have  different name but a place where you go to get nails, screws, window screening, all the things everybody needs to fix the physical parts of their homes.  there will be someone in that kind of store who can explain all this.  

 

a book on plumbing will have diagrams and photos of how things are connected.

 

you do not clean an overflow.  that is probably something you will not need to worry about.  it is simply a safety feature to keep your bench and floor from having water reach it if somehow a tap is left on and the sink plugged. rising water will eventually get to an opening that will carry the water around the plug and into the drainpipe.  the overflow hole is usually right in the front of the user so it can hardly be seen without bending way over the sink and looking close to the rim.  only once in all these years have i had a need for an overflow and that was on a bathtub.  two kids in a tub can have a lot of fun.  their mom, not so much.

 

i have friends who make sinks and they do not put overflows into the design.

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