bhunt7 Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 I am a self-taught potter eager to start making my own c5 glazes. I've read a lot on internet and have a few books but the measurement thing still hasn't sunk in my nogan. I need basic math calls..ie..% to grams..are there exceptions to the 100% rule? I've seen some recipes that total to 125% what?! Is it always % × 10? For 100 gr test batches AND 1000 gram batches? I guess I need a fool-proof formula. Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callie Beller Diesel Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 In an ideal world, glaze recipes should be written in percent, with the BASE glaze totalling 100%, sometimes with additives for colour or opacity listed as the last couple of ingredients that will add up to a larger percent. The base glaze is supposed to be a clear(ish) shiny, balanced glaze that you can then adjust by adding other ingredients to for colour, opacity, special effects, etc, etc. So this can look something like: 10 ingredient one 20 ingredient two 30 ingredient three 40 ingredient four 100 total Add 3 colour 10 opacifier For a grand total of 113%. This is normal. Sometimes you get someone who is mathematically adventurous, and turns that whole 113% into a 100 gram recipe, and that can get confusing. A typical test glaze batch is 100g, because it makes enough glaze to give you an idea of what it looks like on several test tiles and/or a small pot and you don't have to do any math. 20% of one ingredient equals 20 grams of that ingredient. This amount fits nicely into a plastic drink cup. If you decide after testing that you like this glaze and want more of it, you can multiply the numbers by ten to get a 1000g batch (about half an ice cream pail) and try it on a few more things. Using the example above, this would look like 100g Ingredient one 200g ingredient two 300g ingredient three 400g ingredient four Total 1000g Add 30g colourant 100g opacifier. If that doesn't help, pm me the recipe that has you held up, and I can offer better advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJR Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 In an ideal world, glaze recipes should be written in percent, with the BASE glaze totalling 100%, sometimes with additives for colour or opacity listed as the last couple of ingredients that will add up to a larger percent. The base glaze is supposed to be a clear(ish) shiny, balanced glaze that you can then adjust by adding other ingredients to for colour, opacity, special effects, etc, etc. So this can look something like: 10 ingredient one 20 ingredient two 30 ingredient three 40 ingredient four 100 total Add 3 colour 10 opacifier For a grand total of 113%. This is normal. Sometimes you get someone who is mathematically adventurous, and turns that whole 113% into a 100 gram recipe, and that can get confusing. A typical test glaze batch is 100g, because it makes enough glaze to give you an idea of what it looks like on several test tiles and/or a small pot and you don't have to do any math. 20% of one ingredient equals 20 grams of that ingredient. This amount fits nicely into a plastic drink cup. If you decide after testing that you like this glaze and want more of it, you can multiply the numbers by ten to get a 1000g batch (about half an ice cream pail) and try it on a few more things. Using the example above, this would look like 100g Ingredient one 200g ingredient two 300g ingredient three 400g ingredient four Total 1000g Add 30g colourant 100g opacifier. If that doesn't help, pm me the recipe that has you held up, and I can offer better advice. Great job explaining this Diesel. You forgot to mention that in Canada we use Timmie's cups for glaze testing. Unfortunately, the bottoms come unglued if left overnight with liquid glaze in them. Tom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 I'm going to keep tabs on this topic. I still have not got into glaze mixing, but this will come in handy, once I do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Diesel Clays advice is spot on. Now ya just gotta jump in an get wet. I made mistakes and you might make mistakes. Don't sweat it, just have fun being an alchemist. And 100 gram batches will help you save money and stress. Test test test, it's the best. Sorry, I'm tired. Anyway have fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinks Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 I completely agree with TJR,Diesel, simplified it with so ease..You made it look so simple.Great sharing that any lay person would also be able to understand. Vinks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhunt7 Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Thanks Mark..I needed someone to tell me "just have fun". I think I'm thinking I'll cause an explosion inside or invisioning glaze running all over the shelves from my concoctions...but from all I've read about glaze experiences, that doesn't really happen. So I'll just jump in and trust my instincts. Thanks all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJR Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 One thing we didn't discuss is that you want to place your glaze test on a vertical surface. Your tests need to be able to stand in your kiln without falling over. Make a bunch of "L" shaped bisqued tiles. This way you can tell if your test runs. i have had many fabulous looking ash glaze tests that look great on a flat tile. when you put them on a mug they run two inches. TWO INCHES! Had to buy a couple new shelves. I would recommend reading John Britt's books on either high fire glazes or cone 6 glazing.He even shows how to extrude test tiles. Tom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Tom, It's funny you talk about extruding tiles. When I was taking Ceramics, in college, there was also a Clay/ Glaze Calc. class the same semester. I saw the students, making test tiles, by throwing cylinders, and cutting them in sections. That's how they were told to make them. The one day, someone, somehow, discovered the use of the extruder. They ran down to the Sculpture studio, that had band saws and such, and made a dye. They were all much less stressed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhunt7 Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Socratic Potter; I watched the video last week. Pretty cool. I don't have a large extruder... yet, so I'll learn how to do it on the wheel. Wish our community college offered ceramics classes. I want to learn so much but have to do it by books, forums like this one or YouTube. Thanks for your input. Deisel Clay and Mark; In looking at all the different chemicals and recipes out there, it's quite intimidating. Should I start out with 20,20,20,20,20 and add colorants? They "seem" simple enough. I did a bogus chemical order with Axner for only 5 recipes. It totaled $200 without shipping charges!!! yikes. So I won't be doing all them at once. Like I said, I want to jump in and "do it all" at once. Slow your roll, Bill. So, slow accumulation of chemicals would be smart, yes? Easy base recipes with only 5-6 chemicals. Is that how everyone starts out? Thank for response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 A good starting point is Mastering Cone 6 Glazes by John Hesselberth and Ron Roy. Google Mastering Cone 6 Glazes and you can find their website, including recipes. They developed a group of base glazes and then variations of each base using different colorants. Pick one of the base glazes, then try the different versions. Starting out, it is better to learn as much as you can from one glaze before branching off into 20 different directions. Most importantly, see how the glazes work with your clay body before you make large buckets of glazes that either do not look right or have glaze fit problems. You can also start with a good clear glaze that fits your clay body, then add different mason stains to develop a color palate off of that base glaze. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhunt7 Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 bciskepottery; Thanks for info. His book is a little out of my price range; $148 to over $200. But am looking at this site, which is pretty informative. Thanks for the tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Bridge Pottery Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 If you buy a feldspar, a frit, some silica and some kaolin you can start making glazes. Those I would say are the basic materials for cone 5 glaze. Look into what colourants you want and either buy commercial colours or use the raw oxides to colour your glass. http://digitalfire.com/4sight/glossary/glossary_colorant.html Digital fire is my favourite source. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhunt7 Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 High Bridge; Thanks, I'll do that. I love Digital Fire as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 bciskepottery; Thanks for info. His book is a little out of my price range; $148 to over $200. But am looking at this site, which is pretty informative. Thanks for the tip. That is the cost of the out-of-print book; they have released an ibook version (black/white photos, though) that is affordable. And the web site has color photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhunt7 Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Oh, ok. Thanks bpottery.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callie Beller Diesel Posted June 21, 2015 Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 In an ideal world, glaze recipes should be written in percent, with the BASE glaze totalling 100%, sometimes with additives for colour or opacity listed as the last couple of ingredients that will add up to a larger percent. The base glaze is supposed to be a clear(ish) shiny, balanced glaze that you can then adjust by adding other ingredients to for colour, opacity, special effects, etc, etc. So this can look something like: 10 ingredient one 20 ingredient two 30 ingredient three 40 ingredient four 100 total Add 3 colour 10 opacifier For a grand total of 113%. This is normal. Sometimes you get someone who is mathematically adventurous, and turns that whole 113% into a 100 gram recipe, and that can get confusing. A typical test glaze batch is 100g, because it makes enough glaze to give you an idea of what it looks like on several test tiles and/or a small pot and you don't have to do any math. 20% of one ingredient equals 20 grams of that ingredient. This amount fits nicely into a plastic drink cup. If you decide after testing that you like this glaze and want more of it, you can multiply the numbers by ten to get a 1000g batch (about half an ice cream pail) and try it on a few more things. Using the example above, this would look like 100g Ingredient one 200g ingredient two 300g ingredient three 400g ingredient four Total 1000g Add 30g colourant 100g opacifier. If that doesn't help, pm me the recipe that has you held up, and I can offer better advice. Great job explaining this Diesel. You forgot to mention that in Canada we use Timmie's cups for glaze testing. Unfortunately, the bottoms come unglued if left overnight with liquid glaze in them.Tom. Next Canuck to NCECA brings a sleeve of Tims cups Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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