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      Ceramic Arts Network is looking for two new forum moderators for the Clay and Glaze Chemistry and Equipment Use and Repair sections of the Ceramic Arts Network Community Forum. We are looking for somebody who is an active participant (i.e. somebody who participates on a daily basis, or near daily) on the forum. Moderators must be willing to monitor the forum on a daily basis to remove spam, make sure members are adhering to the Forum Terms of Use, and make sure posts are in the appropriate categories. In addition to moderating their primary sections, Moderators must work as a team with other moderators to monitor the areas of the forum that do not have dedicated moderators (Educational Approaches and Resources, Aesthetic Approaches and Philosophy, etc.). Moderators must have a solid understanding of the area of the forum they are going to moderate (i.e. the Clay and Glaze Chemistry moderator must be somebody who mixes, tests, and has a decent understanding of materials). Moderators must be diplomatic communicators, be receptive to others’ ideas, and be able to see things from multiple perspectives. This is a volunteer position that comes with an honorary annual ICAN Gold membership. If you are interested, please send an email outlining your experience and qualifications to jharnetty@ceramics.org.

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Found 10 results

  1. What is the point of black wax resist? What purpose or different application does it serve vs. clear wax resist? Thanks.
  2. Hi folks. I've been using a Silhouette Cameo cutter to create vinyl decals I put on my bisque before dipping in glaze to create a negative space design. (it's ain't easy creating a signature look and standing out in an art town) It's challenging (sometimes flat crazy making) because if you pull the decals too soon, glaze runs into the area you want to keep clean and too late, it flakes and chunks come off with the decal and I end up doing a lot of clean up or touch up. Add to that my unnatural love of gooey, reactive, unpredictable and persnickety glazes and it can be a real PITA, especially when doing runs of 200+ pieces. My cutter just broke and I won't be able to afford a new one any time soon. Once I was done stressing out and having a mini meltdown, I decided to try to create something new, different and cooler. I was thinking about carving stamps of my more popular designs and then using crayons as wax resist (I have no love for liquid wax resist and a very complicated history with it) Crayons are crazy cheap at the dollar store and easy to control. Bonus, I can leave some small bits unwaxed to add shadow/more texture... I've only made one stamp, I carved into some craft plaster of paris advertised as “carvableâ€, then pushed wet clay into the carving and bisque fired to create a stamp. So here are my questions…. Has anyone ever used crayons as wax resist? And did they work well for you? What is your favorite carving material for making stamps? I've added a couple of photos of what I've been doing to provide a visual… Thanks in advance
  3. From the album Fullacreations Pottery

    Smalll bowl 7 inches in diameter with copper over transparent glase with wax resist and cobalt over that.

    © craig fulladosa

  4. I am working with Laguna B mix stoneware, bisque firing at cone 04 and glaze firing at cone 5. I use Columbus Clay wax resist on the bottoms of each piece and often in resist design between layers of glaze. Sometimes I will get wax resist on an unintended area of bisque ware and want to remove it. I ususally just put that piece back in the kiln with my next bisque firing at cone 04 and the wax burns off. Any other suggestions to remove the unwanted wax? At what temperature does the wax burn off? If I had several pieces could I fire them at cone 022? or even lower? I ask because, (in a brainless moment) I waxed the bottoms of several pieces before signing them with underglaze as a usually do.
  5. 032

    From the album Mugs, mugs and more mugs!!

    Autumn Leaf Mugs, white ^6 stoneware, underglazes with a wax resist and blackline leaf design, dotted accents, footed, pulled handles.
  6. spoon rest

    From the album RV gallery

    © RV Ceramics

  7. Bowl

    From the album My pottery

  8. Hi all! I have a new type of project that I'm not too sure how to execute. I have a client that wants lettering on a mug and I have a few ideas on how to do it - but need some expert advice! I'm going for a knock-out kind of text, similar to what is show in my attached image. I couldn't link the image correctly, but here it is shared on my Google Drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9KmXACqrOVwUXJsMmN1NjVqRDg/view?usp=sharing 1. My first thought was to stamp letters into the semi-leather hard clay and carefully fill the grooves in with dark-colored slip. Bisque, then cover the text area with wax resist and finish glazing the rest of the mug. 2. Dipping the stamps in dark colored slip and stamping with color directly onto semi-leather hard clay. Bisque, then cover the text area with wax resist and finish glazing the rest of the mug. 3. My final thought was to skip dealing with the tedious slip application and just stamp the lettering into the mug, then bisque. Paint glaze onto the text area only, to fill in the grooves - then wipe off the excess. Apply a wax resist OVER the lettered section and then glaze the entire mug. I am really leaning toward the third method because it seems the most straigh-forward and easiest, but I've never applied wax resist OVER glaze and not sure how it will turn out. I wanted to see if anyone on here has ever used this method before with fine detail. Thank you so much fo your help! - Nina
  9. I have a hate-hate relationship with using wax resist on the bottom of my pots; It tends to get it everywhere (fingerprints in the oddest places) and often it runs down the sides of my pot. It's also expensive. I was reading that some folks have had success with Mop N Glo floor polish. I stopped by the grocery store on the way to work and noted that the one Mop N Glo product they had was a cleaner with lots of weird ingredients and didn't seem to have much in the way of wax it in. I looked over and saw a can of Johnson Paste Wax. The ingredients are carnuba wax, micro-crystalline wax and some paraffin with one solvent that shouldn't be in high enough quantity to cause a problem in the kiln. I want to try this for two reasons; I think I'll have more control/less drips wiping a paste on, and once the glaze is dry, I might be able to wipe most of it off limiting the burnout in my kiln. Has anyone tried this?
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