Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'stains'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Ceramic Arts Daily Forums
    • Forum FAQ & Terms of Use
    • Studio Operations and Making Work
    • Clay and Glaze Chemistry
    • Equipment Use and Repair
    • Business, Marketing, and Accounting
    • Educational Approaches and Resources
    • Aesthetic Approaches and Philosophy
    • Int'l Ceramic Artists Network (ICAN) Operations and Benefits
    • Ceramic Events of Interest

Found 10 results

  1. Hi everybody, This is my first post here, nice to meet you all. I have a question about some result of fired colored porcelain. I am making some unglazed porcelain objects, with the goal of having a very matte finish. Now I have made a test with porcelain colored with a black stain, I have added 4 % to the slip. The stain is based on Co-Fe-Cr, it's standard stain I purchased at a ceramic supplier, the same goes for the slip. What I did: First did a bisque fire (electric kiln) until 950 degree Celsius (1742 degrees Fahrenheit) I removed the objects and finished them (sanding) to a more smooth finish In the kiln again, fired until 1230 degree Celsius (2246 degrees Fahrenheit) The result is a matte looking porcelain, but it has some unwanted glossy spots on the surface (see attached photos). I do not understand why this is happening. Maybe somebody has an idea what could be the cause of this? Thank you in advance. greetings, Patrick Hartog
  2. So what is your experiences with stains in your making/glazing process? Do they separate or pool when you use them in glaze? Do they create a course texture when used in a slip/engobe? What are some of the problems you have had in their use? Just curious?...well more than that.. but Nerd
  3. Commemorative bowl

    From the album 2016

    Made for a friend's 50th birthday. Various 'significant' words & phrases stamped inside and out with different letter styles, highlighted with oxide washes before bisque firing. Dipped in transparent glaze & fired to 1100oC in an electric kiln.
  4. From the album 2016

    Small bowl with pinched floral additions. Stains added to transparent glaze painted on flowers. Whole piece dipped in transparent glaze. Fired to 1100oC in electric kiln.
  5. Can I put a clear glaze on bisque then when it is thoroughly dried, apply a commercial liquid stain, over the glaze, then when dry fire the piece. I have heard about the Mason Stains, but haven't progressed far enough in my newbie knowledge to mix my own glazes and stains.
  6. Has anyone tried coloring gray stoneware with mason stains? I've used mason stains in cone 10 porcelain and it's been great, but I'm wondering if cone 10 stoneware is colorable too? I can of course test this out, but if someone else has done it that's of course a lot less time consuming! Of course the coloring won't be as bright as porcelain no matter what, but I'm more worried about the shrinkage rate changing possibly if I decided to use a colored stoneware with my regular stoneware.
  7. Hi all, this forum has been a treasure trove of information while I was learning and exploring techniques, I hope you can help me with a specific question. I like the look of unglazed clay when it has been fired at ^10. Red clays, black clays, off white clays… I like to play with the contrast of glazed and unglazed fired clay. One thing I would like to try, is to give color to the unglazed areas of my work, sort of like the pitcher pic I attached below. This is not exactly what I'm going for, though, but close. Here I assume the pattern on the unglazed clay is iron oxide applied along with the glaze and high-fired at the same time. Perhaps the tumblers I attached are like a better example of what I'm talking about, you can see she dipped the rim in white glaze and painted the rest with bright stripes, I'm puzzled as to how/what steps/what with. What I'd like to do is work in two steps. First I'd glaze the pot & fire it, and then I'd apply vivid colors to the unglazed parts, leaving the glazed part alone, and fire the ware again, at a lower temperature (lower^ is how I understand I will get the brightest colors). So my question is : What kind of color (overglaze/underglaze/stains..) would a) adhere to mature unglazed stoneware, and become permanent during firing ? This is not for the interior of dinnerware, but possibly destined to items that would get handled a lot. I guess another question would be : Am I approaching this wrong and should I consider another process? Thank you for any insight you may have on this, D. The photos are of work by Ako Castuera and Shino Takeda
  8. Hello Everyone! just a quick question... sorry if its obvious! can i stain flax paper clay, i'm using Scarva Flax paper clay E/S400 (1080*c fining cone 03) is it possible to stain this clay? and if so, could anyone recommend some stains? thanks! Toni
  9. Just starting to do pottery at home. Have inherited many bags (40+) of cone 4-6 glazes, stains and oxides and I am overwhelmed by all of it. I have done some pottery before but in a school where all the material was premixed. I know how to mix powdered glaze with water, no problem, but don't know how to mix the stains and oxides. Plus, I don't know where to start. Do I start trying out just one glaze or do I prepare small batches and do a series of test tiles?
  10. I'm using mason stain for the first time to create a black slip. Currently I'm at 5% with 6600 black Mason stain, and my casting body is barely gray after testing. I'm doubtful that another 5% will do the trick. A friend recently suggested that Ferro stains have a higher saturation, that they seem to be more concentrated, and that a person generally has to use less for the desired result. Does anyone know if there's any truth to this? And what stains do you prefer and why?
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.