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Found 93 results

  1. mansie131

    Iron Oxide Slip

    Hi, i'm having trouble with iron oxide slip applied at the greenware stage. i've noticed that a thin layer gives varied colours and a thick layer gives either black or nothing- does it burn off? (i use a transparent glaze over this) additionally, a lot of the colour washes out on cleaning after bisque. what's going wrong and how can i stablize the slip to give me a solid black? i use stoneware fired to cone 09 bisque and cone 6 glaze. thanks!
  2. Kristy

    colored slips

    Hey All! I'm new here and very new to throwing clay (6 months in) but have come to LOVE using colored slip on greenware and doing sgraffito. Now, please excuse my novice questions but I've been looking online for recipes for different colored slips. My pottery mentor told me to avoid buying stains as they are way too overpriced and to make my own colored slips with different chemicals. I found a black slip recipe easily but can't find a purple one or pink or yellow or green...even blue. Are there such recipes? I do love vibrant colors so this may be something that doesn't exist. Please share what you know about coloring slips without stains. Thanks! Kristy
  3. Hello, I am new here and also just taken over a small pottery studio with limited experience. I have done pottery as a hobby and now in at the deep end, which is fun but also daunting and expensive! I have looked online for the best and cheapest way to make underglazes for kids to use on greenware for one-off groups. (also considering just keeping it un-glazed and send off bisqued to paint at home?!) I made some stained glaze powder/ ball clay concoctions but were very weak in colour and too thick. Can someone please advise on the cheapest way to make underglazes? I have seen other potters have jars of it in kids classes in the past... Does mixing it with ball clay always dull down the colour and what ratio is best? Using just water is too runny. Advice greatly appreciated. Thanks
  4. Meganthwaites

    How do I make black slip?

    I have some white stoneware slip that I bought from my clay supplier, I just want to know if I can add black iron oxide to it to get a black fired clay, and if I can do that then how much oxide do I need to add to get it really black?
  5. I have a bucket of old porcelain casting slip that I made a couple of years ago, and I'm wondering if I can reconstitute it. It's pretty chunky, it was originally deflocculated with Darvan 811. Can I get it back to a proper consistency for casting? Should I add more Darvan? Also, does Darvan expire?
  6. Hi everyone, I am experimenting with sponges, submerged in slurry/ slip. I have seen a view examples that I am trying to replicate. I have done a view test using natural sponges. I do not want to use any artificial sponge due to unhealthy fumes that might occur wile firing. However, the results so far did not really satisfy me. The remaining structure of the sponge looked interesting but it was very brittle and fell apart easily. I fired it at cone 05. I am wondering if anyone has some experience on that subject and a tip what I could do differently? And do you have any recommendation for natural spongy materials that I could use, alternatively to a sponge? Thank you so much for any advice , best wishes, Seb
  7. Hello everyone, I am wondering if anybody can give me an advice on deflocculation? I am trying to adjust the viscosity of one gallon slip "Cone 06 Casting Slip - White" from a ca 50 seconds runtime, to ca 30 seconds. I have used dispersal "Darvan 7" in small increments and I am not adding water! For some reason, the slip does not seem to change significantly. Could there be an issue that I am not aware of? About how much would I roughly need to add to a gallon to get the running time down about 20 seconds under normal circumstances? Any advice would be so much appreciated! Thanks everyone, Seb
  8. sheppard.lin

    Flashing Slips

    Hello all, I'm participating in my first wood firing, and I have been doing some reading about using flashing slips. Some say they are applied thinly over bisque wear, others seem to apply before the bisque. Anyone have some experience with these methods? Photos would be greatly appreciated as well! I'm also interested in trying to spray some slips. Thanks!
  9. Apologies for the stupid question - I'm very very new to this Can I use slip at the greenware stage instead of glaze for drinking cups/mugs, or will they leak? The reason I'm asking is that I want my mugs to have a very thin matte finish. Maybe there is a better way to achieve that? Thank you and I'm sorry if the question is too stupid. Nili
  10. Hi everyone I am the tech at a small studio and introduced a Zakin clear (cone6) to them as a new clear glaze. They had been using Ron Meyers recipe and wanted something they could dip. It seem to be working just fine until a studio member put it over a slip colored with Raven Black mason stain. It changed from black to a rusty chocolate brown. Has anyone else run into this issue? Any advice or ideas would be great. Thanks! Slip recipe: Raven Black mason stain porcelain sodium sicate soda ash Zakin clear: Silica 18 kona F4 40 wollastonite 10 Gerstley borate 16 OM4 12 Zinc 4
  11. I've got a bone dry bowl. Arctic white stoneware. It has thin walls and has been sitting for about a month. I also have a 'raven black' slip (description below). Is it possible for me to paint the pot with the slip, then paint patterns with shellac and wipe the black slip away, revealing the clay underneath? I'm unsure if the bowl will take the slip and whether it's possible to wipe the excess away, so I'm left with a black pattern. Ideas: These decorating slips, are suitable for use on both Earthernware and Stoneware bodies. When manufacturing our slips we believe in using high percentages of stain to give strong, vivid colours throughout the range. The slip can be applied to leather hard clay with brushes, sponges or slip trailers. After biscuit firing the pots should be glazed with a suitable transparent glaze which will further enhance the vibrant colours. Our sample is fired to 1060degC.The colours darken the higher you fire. Wide firing range - 1000-1300°C" Is it possible for me to paint the pot with the slip, then paint patterns with shellac and wipe the black slip
  12. I'm looking for any advice on properly maintaining a pouring table and the slip in it. Any advice is welcomed! Thank you in advance.
  13. Hi all! The company we work with that formulates our slip is having difficulties achieving the necessary properties for casting. The issues are due to the fact that they are taking a plastic throwing body, and are trying to convert it into a casting slip. Due to the fact that we have little control of that formulation, I do not know the exact recipe for the slip. We are just curious how difficult it is to create a Mid-Range Red Casting Slip that is properly flocculated, and casts evenly with no issues. After firing, the color we are trying to achieve is a Red-Orange, preferably something that withstands thermal shock since we are creating drinking vessels. Does anyone have any recipes, or reasons why a high-iron casting slip acts weird? Thank you all for your time!
  14. Hello, I am fairly new to slip casting (about 9 months), and have been trying to learn as much possible through books and videos. I haven't delved into making my own slip yet, instead I have been using Dover Slip from Miller (Laguna). It is a Cone 6 White Stoneware. I am having some issues with the slip: 1) A film forms on top the slip after sitting in the mold for about 10 minutes. 2) When I do the hand dip test no webbing is forming at all. 3) I believe the Specific Gravity is 1.8 (which should be right) I measured out 100ml and it weighs 180 grams. 4) It is pretty thick, pours out of the mold poorly leaving behind some gunk on the rim of the mold (makes for an uneven lip of my tableware) 5) It doesn't pull from the mold well, sometimes even 2 hours later I still can't get a simple cup out. Just for some addition information the room I am casting in lately has been around 85-95 degrees F, with pretty high humidity. What I am trying to figure out is if I need to add more deflocculant or if the slip has come over deflocculated from the factory, or perhaps I need to add more water. Thanks for the input. -Matt
  15. Does the slip used in this way have a special recipe? At what stage is this usually applied?
  16. HI, I have some slightly pink clay with (iron?) rocks which generally crush up in the mixing process. I am using it to low fire 30cm flat +-5mm tiles in a sawdust firing without bisquing first. Firstly, how fine do these particles need to be? Can I get away with a 5mm mesh or will sediment this big blow up piece in firing? (given that I am only firing low and it is not functional ware?) or do I really need to get all the lumps out?? Secondly - I found a page that recommends about 1.85 specific gravity for slip casting. Any thoughts? Thirdly, does anyone have tios or useful videos of how to keep temp rising fairly slowly to reduce thermal shock. I have ref. bricks that I am making a rectangle with and using a piece of reo. bar to hold tiles vertically off base so they don't fall and break. Doesn;t matter if some break as I can put those on the base of this conceptual installation piece. Making +- 300 tiles. Fourthly - to defloc or not?? I have sodium silicate - am pouring a 1.5 sq metre area and then cutting up tiles... Yes, I am on a steep learning curve here! Assistance gratefully received. Cheers, Fiona
  17. Hey guys, Quick question I can't seam to find much information on. I'm slipcasting a shape from a two piece mould and it leaves a seam down the side of my piece. I sand it as greenware then again as bisque before stoneware firing and wondering if seams are just inevitable. It could possibly be a combination of protruding just enough to be visible but also a discoloration effect. I have experimented a little but just wondering if you guys find that seams are just unavoidable or are usually very easy to get rid of. I'm possibly not doing enough to remove them. I'm not glazing the seamed area. Thanks.
  18. Yvanox

    Crater Slip

    I am looking to find a slip recipe for trailing. I need something bubbly, fluffy like a crater glaze or something like that. I'm looking for a rough concrete look with little holes... any idea or low fire recipes ?
  19. glazenerd

    Slip Recipes

    Spring is on the way, and I saw robins in the yard already- a month ahead of schedule. I have finished my porcelain study, almost done with stoneware, and done with crystalline. So this spring and summer, I am going to look more closely at slips and standard cone 6 glazes. I have an interest in slips; to be used in non-traditional applications. Have these thoughts rolling around about using slip as color nodes, or for colorant fields for a runny glaze to leach color from as it runs through it. I am sure there are books out there, but I usually do not read them until after I get done experimenting. Do not learn very much by reading them; they tend to be shy on technical information (chemistry). So if you have some generic slip recipes floating around that I can "rearrange"; please send them along please. Nerd
  20. So what is your experiences with stains in your making/glazing process? Do they separate or pool when you use them in glaze? Do they create a course texture when used in a slip/engobe? What are some of the problems you have had in their use? Just curious?...well more than that.. but Nerd
  21. I just tried making paperclay slip from a recipe that I was given at a workshop. The slip has turned out extremely runny and will not dry. To a 50# bag of dry porcelain clay Add to one qt of warm water • 7 grams Barium Carbonate • 13 grams soda ash To a 5 gallon bucket add • 2 gallons of water Add the barium carb mixture to the water and mix for 5 minutes, and while water is mixing: get mixture ready • ¾-1 oz of sodium silicate • 1 oz Darvon • 2 oz of water The paper pulp is made separately and added to the slip. First, it wasn't clear that you don't add the pulp to the entire 5 gallons of slip, so I added it to 2 gallons. I tried dipping wire and after 30 minutes, it's still wet. I left both the slip and the paperclay slip uncovered overnight in hopes of evaporating water, but that hasn't helped. I would really want to save this batch because I can't afford another 50# bag of porcelain. I wonder if there was too much deflocullent in the slip? Can I save it by adding a flocullent like epsom salts? Btw, are the epsom salts bought at a drugstore the same used in ceramics? Aloha - Eve
  22. Hello Fellow mud mashers, I work with Stans red earthenware and decorate it with a basic 4 ingredient slip. The slip has been perfect for years, now, all of a sudden it is settling like a gooey rock and will not stay suspended. I cannot for the life of me figure out what has happened, I have not changed a thing. Here is the recipe: 25% of each.....EPK, G200, Silica and OM4. Kinda hard to mess this up. Could it be a problem with one of the ingredients, It seems as though the prob started when I purchased new silica and EPK. I cant manage this problem with wholesale orders coming in, especially when I mix colors from the base and they ALL settle. Any help would be soooooo wonderful!! Penny
  23. Pottery by Penny

    Coffee Mug

    From the album: Fun Fun Fun

    © Pottery by Penny

  24. Hi all, Intermediate level-I'm trying to make some slip transfers with slips/underglazes with some of my drawings on leather hard pieces. I tend to use stoneware and/or terra cotta clays and bisque to cone 06. I tried rice paper, but it's too fibrous, it seeps into the work and the decoration loses clarity (see rice paper transfer photo examples). I recently bought transfer paper to try, it's a bit dry (I tried to use underglaze on this) and not all of the decoration transfers across to the piece. I used two coats of underglaze on the last try with transfer paper. I'm hand painting the decorations onto the paper using some of my drawings. I put the paper on the leather hard piece, gently wet the back of the paper until it has "traction" on the piece, then rub the decoration with the back of a spoon. I gently peel back the paper on a corner to see how much of the decoration has been transferred. This almost worked (especially with the transfer paper), it missed in a few areas, so I just touched up with the same underglaze. It'd be nice to be able to transfer the decoration with this type of application instead of having to touch up areas. Any suggestions for a better application? Thanks in advance! mel340
  25. Lately I've been trying to do some new stuff with slips. I make my slips by using my porcelain trimmings, mixed with stains and/or oxides. I've experimented a bit with adding titania to some slips, which gives a different surface to some glazes applied over the slip-- glazes that are on the edge of developing matte surfaces will go matte reliably over the slips. But I'm wondering if I could make slips more reactive or to put it another way, more interactive with both body and glaze by adding small amounts of flux to them... say 5 % of gerstley borax. This might not be a good idea when slips need to retain a hard edge, as in some resist work, but an example of what I'm trying to do is to spray bands of colored slips onto pots and have those bands interact and fuse in an interesting way. Has anyone experimented with fluxed slips made from a porcelain body, and what were the results? Or do you know of potters who have explored this area?
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