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Found 10 results

  1. Evening Ceramic Arts Community, After a long stint of teaching without a kiln, and then having the opportunity to work for a semester with one, I got the bug again and remembered how much I love clay under my fingernails. Serendipity steps in and I'm offered a free kiln just to clear it out of its current residence. Hopeful, but hesitant I visit the kiln to snap some pics and see what I can find out, as its been a long time since undergrad... So please take a look and let me know if/ what can be done. Skutt Model K Crack in the brick on kiln floor Flashing peeled away on base Lid loose, hinge partially attached. Chip in brick along top edge Exposed elements Much obliged, Eric
  2. Rk-Whisper

    Hey All, I'm sure this topic has come up before but I can't seem to find much in the forums. I work at a High School and therefore have a limited budget I'd like to (hopefully) spend on wheel repairs. We have 4 Shimpo RK-Whispers and one of them is on the fritz. When you start it spinning the wheel head stutters and spasms for a second before it jerkily spins. While it's spinning it emits a very high pitch squeal. I assumed it just needed to be lubricated but the stuttering is what worries me that it's something different. The wheels are about 7 years old and past the warranty I believe. Any advice would be great. Thanks! -Brett
  3. Hi all, I have recently purchased a Podmore wheel to find that the whole electrics system needs repairing! not ideal Everything else in the wheel seems in good condition and would be a shame to write the wheel off! My uncle fixes motorbikes and deals with electrics so had a look at it and got it working but then it stopped again. we figure that someone previously has done some soldering work on it and basically it needs a replacement electric system. I rang Potterycrafts who took over Podmore in 1982 and asked if it could be refurbished or if they sell the parts and they said I would need to find an electrician who wanted to fix it for me and the modern wheels are so different electrically wise that we cant even combine the two. The wheel is currently in swindon, Wiltshire. Any ideas of how to get it fixed or who to ask? i really dont want to scrap it
  4. Hi, folks, Have 'inherited' an old Olympic kiln, Model #2831(no additional letters), 240 v, max temp 2250, cone 6 (all this is on the metal label). According to our neighbor it had been in the barn for a looonnng time. It's about 4' tall on a stand and maybe 25 or so inches in diameter. Mostly intact but according to an electrician who looked at it will need at least one new element and replacement of one of the plugs that connect the three sections together (chewed by a desperate mouse apparently). I've looked on line using the model number and serial number but haven't found anything to match. Since there are at least 2 parts that need replacement (perhaps more since I'm not sure about the kiln controller box - that's where the chewed plug is) I am wondering if anyone has suggestions about how where to look or whom to talk to so that I can figure out if the kiln can be made operable. Thanks and Happy New Year! Kristi
  5. Hi there, I recently bought my very first kiln. It's VERY old, I think from the 60's or 70's. I was assuming it would have cracks in it, but I am a little concerned about the condition of the firebrick on the top. It's so crumbled it's almost falling into the kiln. I've seen a few websites that say the cracks don't matter unless the elements are sagging because of it, but I just find it hard to believe that with it this damaged they can still insulate (especially at the top). I've attached a picture of it. Can anyone tell me if I need to repair these bricks or not? Or does it just not matter if I can still get to temperature alright? Thanks in advance, Sigourney
  6. Hello! I bought a used Brent C wheel months ago and it runs but it's just a slower than what I'm used to and doesn't stop right when I release pressure on the pedal. I figured I got it at a good price and I had asked someone and they said to get this item: http://www.theceramicshop.com/store/product/2740/Foot-Pedal-Assembly%2C-Brent/and it would apparently fix my problem... but really it made little to know difference. In summary the issue is that the wheel runs slow, and doesn't stop as immediately as I would wish. Any suggestions? Thank you
  7. I have a big sale coming up this weekend and I put the last bisque load in yesterday afternoon. I come into the studio today to find the kiln reading Error 1. This is a Skutt kiln model km-1227 firing a bisque load to cone 04. This error is about the ramping up rate being less than 12 degrees per hour. Possible causes include large load which isn't the case, and issues with either the relays, elements, or voltage. Normally, I would just call the kiln repair man, but he was here in July fixing this kiln. The issue then was the electrical plug. It had some discoloration around one of the prongs, and he re-wired and replaced the whole plug section. I also had an electrician come out and check the wall wiring and outlet to make sure the problem was isolated in the kiln plug, which it was. The wall wiring is fine. The kiln has been running about twice a week since the repair just fine. The other issue is that our power had been out all morning before I turned the kiln on. Questions: 1) would a power outage cause the kiln to sense low voltage? 2) do you think the issue is with the wiring or is it just ANOTHER issue with the same kiln that happened to pop up right after the first issue? 3) Am I correct in assuming trying to re-run the kiln will result in the same error or create a bigger problem? Most importantly: 4) Will the load be underfired and need to be fired again? Or do you think it's okay to glaze? I have no idea what temp it was at when the error occured and it's still too hot to open and look at. My other kiln is doing glaze loads all week and if I need to re-fire I will not get this entire kiln load done in time for the sale. Thanks!!!
  8. Hey folks ! Hoping someone can help me out! I'm replacing an element in my kiln for the first time. Everything was going smoothly - I removed the old element and put in the new one but i can't for the life of me loosen the barrel connector (I think that's what it's called) from the electrical wire running from the switch. I need to loosen it to remove the old element wire still inside and to make the electric wire make contact with the element. I'll take a pic and attach it below. It's a barrel connector with a screw in it to keep it tight and I can't loosen it at all!! Is it safe to use a lubricant of some sort on the connector? If so, which brand? My supplier is already closed for the weekend so I can't go to them for help. I've gashed up my fingers from the screw driver and pliers slipping lol. Any help would be super appreciated. I have a massive show coming up and I'm falling behind. Thanks so much!!!
  9. I cracked a large vase in the green ware stage and repaired it. It made it through the bisque firing only to crack during the glaze fire! This was a wedding gift for my son! I'm so disappointed! Has anyone had luck repairing a finished piece? If so, please help! Signed Desperate in NC!
  10. Hello! I'm not sure if this is the right forum or web site for this question, but... I have an old bone china tea set (c. 1920) whose tea pot has some worn gold gilding, both on the edge and on the outside decorative pattern. Is any repair possible? Are gilding pens or paints food safe? Would I be trashing the value of the tea pot? Thanks for any advice or thoughts...
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