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Found 9 results

  1. Week 29 As a safety measure, Ben Carter recommends using plastic gloves when throwing _______________. Porcelain tall pots Earthenware Black clays As a core component of both clay bodies and glaze, ______________ is present in all stages of the ceramic process. While harmless to the touch, it can be progressively harmful once it enters your lungs. Alumina Water Silica Oxides The size of a teapot is should be directly related to the ______________________. method of brewing clay body being used type of tea being brewed style of teabag being used Getting started with throwing large requires setting yourself up for success. That's right, the first hurdle to making large work is ________________ larger amounts of clay. Lifting throwing wedging using This weeks questions come from Mastering the Potter's Wheel, Techniques, Tips and Tricks For Potters, by Ben Carter, c.2016, Quarto Publishing Group Note from Pres: This is a new book in my library. I usually do not purchase wheel throwing books anymore, but as I was lately at B&N, and found it there, surprised, I purchased it. It is quite well done, has lots of illustrations, has some good ideas illustrated better than I have seen in other books, and skips into philosophy of making quite a bit, and I enjoy that. The sections on teapot making and design are very well done. Answers: 4. black clays -Materials in this category include chrome, manganese, copper, vanadium, and other soluble heavy-metal colorants. These materials should be kept in a hard plastic container to reduce spillage and unwanted contamination. The only material in this category that you are likely to come into contact with on the wheel is manganese. Many black clays have a percentage of manganese to help them achieve their rich colors. If you choose to use these clays, I recommend wearing plastic gloves when you are forming the clay. I also recommend you take special care when firing to insure no fumes from the kiln enter your studio air supply. A kiln-venting system that exhausts fumes outside your studio is recommended if you plan to use these on a regular basis. 3. Silica-Your first studio safety concern is mitigating silica dust and other lung irritants. As a core component of both clay bodies and glaze, silica is present in all stages of the ceramic process. While it is harmless to the touch, it can be progressively harmful once it enters your lungs. Prolonged exposure to silica dust is linked to an emphysema-like condition known as silicosis. 3. type of tea being brewed-From a functional standpoint, the body of a teapot acts as a reservoir in which the tea will be brewed. The scale is dictated by the speed at which the tea you are brewing steeps. Green teas are best steeped for a short amount of time ( 1 to 2 minutes) and are usually served in small teapots with 8- to 16-ounce capacity. Black teas can be steeped for a longer amount of time (3 to 5 min- utes) and are served in larger forms that hold 16 to 32 ounces. I won’t go into sizes for all tea types, but I do want to reiterate that as the maker, you should match the teapot to the specific type and brewing style of the tea you wish to serve. 3. wedging-Note that before you begin this chapter you should set yourself up for success. That’s right, the first hurdle to making large work is wedging larger amounts of clay. To accomplish this, I recommend using the conical method, which allows you to wedge larger amounts with ease. Note from Pres: after reading this book twice, I really think that it is a gem for those of you that are just beginning, and those of you that are advancing into more forms.
  2. The other day I heard a weird constant noise coming from my studio, I thought it was one of my many vents or fans left on and didn't think much about it. The next day I found my wheel to be left on (oops) and spinning at top speed. I rushed over to fix the pedal but it was in the off position. Today I opened up the pedal to make the adjustment to the little plastic lever, I assumed this was the problem, having dealt with this flimsy contraption many times, but the lever seems to be working properly. No matter which position it's in the wheel goes top speed. Anyone had this happen before? Is there another area that regulates speed besides the pedal that I could check? It's a Brent CXC from the late 80's
  3. Hi, I have this very old Amaco wheel (See image attached) that I have been using and works pretty well except for the slightly loose wheel head and some strange sounds it's starting to make. I am beginning to think about treating myself to a new wheel but I've become accustomed to plaster bats and the only wheels I see for sale do not use plaster bats. I'm not even sure how that works. I was always taught the plaster helped to dry the piece evenly as the top tends to dry first and the plaster draws water from the bottom. Does anyone still use plaster bats? What can you all tell me about wheels and how you work. P.S. I'll be purchasing from Bailey's Pottery Supply in Kingston, NY if that helps. Thank you so much best, -Mary
  4. Hi. I am new to the community. I am looking to acquire a potters wheel. Kick wheel or motorized. I live in Olympia, Washington. I will pay what is reasonable, but ideally i hope to acquire one that is no longer used, for free. Hope you all had a great new years eve! I look forward to hearing from you
  5. I purchased a Randall potters wheel 40 years ago. I have everything but the wheel head. please make suggestions for replacement. what type of bats are being used these days. thank you, Steven
  6. I couldn't find anything via search so here it goes! What kind of maintenance should I be doing for my wheel? How often should I get into it and lubricate? It is a Shimpo, the front says 21 century metal traction drive wheel. It had been cleaned and tuned up (bought used at retail) but I have no knowledge of its on going needs, beyond that machinery can't withstand friction without maintence: so clearly, I need to know! I am aware I could call up my clay supplier and ask, however I just don't want to be the obnoxiously needy customer if I can find what I need on my own! 😊
  7. Easy to guess from the title, but I am looking to buy a used wheel. I looked through the FAQ links and didn't get as clear of an answer as I'd like, so here I go! I've been working on a loaner from some friends who where generous enough to offer it up when they heard I wanted to start throwing again, but they will need it back in a few weeks. I remember using Brent wheels in school, as well as a Lockberbie kick wheel with a motor hookup but that is quite a long time ago! What models have you personally tried? What did you like or dislike? What wheel do you prefer to work on? If you could have any wheel, what would you choose any why? Also are there any wheels you have tried but didn't enjoy, and if so, why? Any that have major faults, or that should be on a "don't buy" list? I know a lot of it boils down to preference and working style, but it's a bit mind boggling without more information! It seems like most of the branded used equipment I've seen is Shimpo or Brent, so comparison between those two companies qualities and advantages would also be helpful.
  8. I purchased a Shimpo VL Lite brand new about three weeks ago. I also purchased some plastibats to go with it. I got it in and put together and threw on it. When I went to center the clay, it wouldn't center perfectly. I like my clay to center so my hands glide perfectly over it with no movement. When I centered on the wheel, there was movement in my hands, a bump, if you will. My husband (who knows nothing about ceramics) noticed the wheel head didn't seem to be moving in a perfect circle--there was a gap between the wheel head and the bats. I assumed maybe I got bad bats, so I sent them back and bought Wonder Bats. I also had the company send me a new wheel head, just to be on the safe side. Fast forward a week. Same exact situation. The clay will not center exactly, and as I'm throwing, I can only go up about 4 inches before the clay gets so off center it flops. I'm really unhappy. I messaged the company, sent them videos, and to be honest, the guy from the company I purchased the wheel from has kind of disregarded everything I've said. I called Shimpo and on Friday, the woman I spoke with was convinced the wheel axle was bent, but she e-mailed me back today and said "there is nothing wrong with the wheel." When the wheel was shipped, the box was badly beat up. I was a ceramics major in college just a few short years ago. I have taken a few years off, but I know what a wheel should feel like when I'm throwing on it, and I'm just not sure what else to do. Am I doing something wrong? What suggestions do you have for me?
  9. Hi, I do need some help. Last year I went through an illness that made me reconsider a great deal of things. I am a waitress, and most people would not have chosen this as a life profession, it has suited me for 25 years, money and schedule being good. After this illness my my recuperation time has been long and I also realized it was time to get the things I have been postponing into my life. I want to throw clay on a wheel. I was going to take classes, but the instructor wants $190 for 4 lessons, and $100 a month to use his studio, bring my own clay and glazes. I already have a kiln, and a shop, I have decided to invest in my own wheel. I am broke from not working for a year , plus I am resistant to buying a very expensive wheel w/o having thrown nor knowing anything about wheels. Here's where I need input: there is a Brent model b used on ebay, probably will bid up to $350, it looks rusty but my husband thinks that it is fine. I could just about swing a clay boss, but I found a few reviews that weren't glowing. My husband is a wood worker so I could get the foot wheel kit by Brent . I could swing the ie by Brent.Finally there is a Bailey pro-x on ebay that will probably bid up to $400. I am a person who almost always goes small, plus my kiln cannot hold large pieces. Any input is very appreciated. Thanks Jolie
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