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Found 6 results

  1. Hi everyone, I'm going to be doing a lot of hand building of porcelain, plates. platters. Should I bisque fire upside down (on rims), right way up, on kiln washed shelves or on calcite alumina? Thanks Andrea
  2. Hello, I am new to ceramics. I have made coil and slab pieces during high school art class, but that's it. I think I know the basics of making pieces, but I'm not sure how the whole firing process goes. I have found a used Skutt kiln for sale. Model LT-3K, three tier, new shut off tube assembly, inside 1/2 selves, on roll cart, and vents to outside for $700. Does this sound like a deal to anyone? What should I look out for when purchasing a used kiln? Also, I need all the start up tools. I think I would like to purchase a wheel to make cups, bowls, plates, mugs, and vases. Any thoughts? Thanks!
  3. Hello everyone I've searched through the forum but didn't find the answer to my question: If I want to make handbuild plates (so they wouldn't have any foot) and then want to glaze them top and bottom, can I use any kind of stilt to prevent the plate from wrapping? The plates would be made with stoneware fired between cone 8 and 10. I red about plate setters but that means the plate can't be glazed underneath, right? Is there any way to support the plate even though it's glazed? I know for low fire we can use metallic stilts but I wonder if they would wrap at such high temperatures. And what about clay stilts? Thanks!
  4. Help. This is day 6 of waiting for 12" plates to 'pop off' hydrobats😳
  5. When I first learned to throw, trimming was one of the next things I had to master. My prof demonstrated using the trimming tools and working the outside edge of the piece and then working the foot ring in, then if needed leveling off the foot ring with a needle tool. I had very little problem with this technique, as we were using Randall wheels with plaster bats. Everything dried off the bat, and so there was not cutting off from the wheel head. Crank up 3 years when I started at Penn State and using metal wheel heads and having to cut everything off with cutting wire. Sloppy uneven bottoms that would grab my tools and cause uneven pots that had difficult times getting even-plus I was still a newbie. Someone, either a prof or student showed me to use a flat blade held perpendicular across the whole piece directly over the center. By pressing down with this blade the entire bottom would be leveled out. I started to use it constantly and found that there was never any need for the needle tool leveling of the foot ring. It also made it easier to get very even areas on casseroles, plates and other wider forms. I use the technique on nearly everything unless I decide to use a wiggle wire with an untrimmed base.
  6. I need to glaze fire a pile of plates. Problem is, only one plate fist per kiln shelf so I end up having more shelves (in weight) than plates. Is there a better way to do it because this feels like a such a waste.
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