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Found 9 results

  1. Hello All! I wonder if someone here has the knowledge to solve a very annoying problem I have been facing lately: I create Porcelain plates, about 9" in diameter. The wight of each plate after glaze firing is about 200 to 250 grams which makes them pretty thin. When bisque firing them, all is well - Always. When glaze firing them (1230 C) , many many of the plates are broken WHEN TOUCHED, that means that when I open the kiln, they all look fine but when I come to pick them up, they break up in my hands. Those that do make it in one piece, have a hollow sound when knocked and break soon after. A few facts to add to the mystery: 1. I do not use a slab roller. 2. Other plates that have a wavy edge style also made from the same Porcelain and with the same method do not break at all IN THE SAME FIRING, 3. Some plates do come out OK. 4. Am using an electric Kiln. 5. The plates are only glazed on their top side. 6. Some plates have a supporting ring element (made also from Porcelain) underneath their circumference to keep their shape (raised edges) and some don't. They all break. 7. The plates are bone dry when entering the glaze firing - the glaze is air dried for a few hours before I fire up the kiln. Any help on this issue will be greatly appreciated! Thank you, Diana.
  2. Hello everyone I've searched through the forum but didn't find the answer to my question: If I want to make handbuild plates (so they wouldn't have any foot) and then want to glaze them top and bottom, can I use any kind of stilt to prevent the plate from wrapping? The plates would be made with stoneware fired between cone 8 and 10. I red about plate setters but that means the plate can't be glazed underneath, right? Is there any way to support the plate even though it's glazed? I know for low fire we can use metallic stilts but I wonder if they would wrap at such high temperatures. And what about clay stilts? Thanks!
  3. Hello, I became a member today, because I'm looking for some info. A couple days ago, I bought some second-hand plates under the brand "Faria & Bento". After a thorough search on Google, I just gathered the following info: The plates are handcrafted and made in a small historical village in Portugal. There are no contact info with the ceramics workshop, so I can't retrieve anything further regarding the plates. Also, the search results are pointing to auctions or eBay sellers. I would be grateful if anyone could give me more info on the brand, the historical background of it, even workshop's contact info. Attached you will find a sample how the plates look like. Thank you in advance. P.S.: I don't know if the topic is in the right forum. If it's wrong, please inform me where else I can post it.
  4. New to dipping plates. Plates are 10"+. Picture on upper side which is waxed. Trying to dip in one color that should be a uniform color (no runs or streaks). Tried make a frame for plate to sit in to be dipped but no way to pour out glaze from top of plate. Not enough glaze to use tongs and the plate vertical. Tried using fingers but glaze is smudgy and irregular where I touched it. Please tell me how it should be done.
  5. Hi everyone, I'm going to be doing a lot of hand building of porcelain, plates. platters. Should I bisque fire upside down (on rims), right way up, on kiln washed shelves or on calcite alumina? Thanks Andrea
  6. Hello, I am new to ceramics. I have made coil and slab pieces during high school art class, but that's it. I think I know the basics of making pieces, but I'm not sure how the whole firing process goes. I have found a used Skutt kiln for sale. Model LT-3K, three tier, new shut off tube assembly, inside 1/2 selves, on roll cart, and vents to outside for $700. Does this sound like a deal to anyone? What should I look out for when purchasing a used kiln? Also, I need all the start up tools. I think I would like to purchase a wheel to make cups, bowls, plates, mugs, and vases. Any thoughts? Thanks!
  7. Help. This is day 6 of waiting for 12" plates to 'pop off' hydrobats😳
  8. When I first learned to throw, trimming was one of the next things I had to master. My prof demonstrated using the trimming tools and working the outside edge of the piece and then working the foot ring in, then if needed leveling off the foot ring with a needle tool. I had very little problem with this technique, as we were using Randall wheels with plaster bats. Everything dried off the bat, and so there was not cutting off from the wheel head. Crank up 3 years when I started at Penn State and using metal wheel heads and having to cut everything off with cutting wire. Sloppy uneven bottoms that would grab my tools and cause uneven pots that had difficult times getting even-plus I was still a newbie. Someone, either a prof or student showed me to use a flat blade held perpendicular across the whole piece directly over the center. By pressing down with this blade the entire bottom would be leveled out. I started to use it constantly and found that there was never any need for the needle tool leveling of the foot ring. It also made it easier to get very even areas on casseroles, plates and other wider forms. I use the technique on nearly everything unless I decide to use a wiggle wire with an untrimmed base.
  9. I need to glaze fire a pile of plates. Problem is, only one plate fist per kiln shelf so I end up having more shelves (in weight) than plates. Is there a better way to do it because this feels like a such a waste.
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