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  1. Jeremy Randall: From Flat to Form WS02 – Saturday - Sunday, July 8 & 9, 2017 10-4pm, Fee: $200 members; $225 non-members www.baltimoreclayworks.org In this 2-day workshop, Jeremy will present his techniques for using tarpaper templates to make repeatable and adjustable pottery forms out of textured earthenware slabs. Focusing on the development of form and the terra sigilatta surface, he will assemble the form, discuss line and surface elements in his pots. Eccentric finishing techniques using non-clay elements like carpet tacks and wire for accent for his vessels will be demonstrated. Open to all skill levels Jeremy Randall received his B.F.A. from Syracuse University and his M.F.A. in ceramics from the University of Florida, and has been making his hand built pottery professionally since 2005. He currently lives in Tully, New York, where he owns and operates his home studio. Jeremy is a visiting instructor of art at Cazenovia College in Cazenovia NY, and an adjunct professor of art at Syracuse University. Jeremy has been involved in numerous national and international shows, is represented by Red Lodge Clay Center in Red lodge MT, The Clay Studio Philadelphia, Society of Arts And Crafts in Boston, among others. He also has work included in the permanent collections of Robert and Jane Myerhoff in Baltimore, Bailey Pottery Equipment permanent Collection, and the Southern Illinois University Museum in Carbondale, Illinois. Questions? Please contact Mary Cloonan at [email protected]<script data-cfhash='f9e31' type="text/javascript">/* */</script>
  2. Hi there, I'm pretty new to glazing and looking for help. I've always been in love with Lucie ries work and have been trying to create a beautiful black glaze of hers made up of equal parts manganese dioxide and red clay. I'm not even sure you can call that a glaze which maybe why I'm having problems with running. The glaze looks beautiful but it runs! Is there anything I can do to stabilise the glaze while keeping the beautiful finish. I am firing it over earthstone original clay in an electric kiln to 1230. Up to 600 at 60/hr then at 100/hr up to 1230. Does anyone have any suggestions to help? I also wondered if anyone might know of a way of making this food safe? Can you layer a clear glaze over it? Appreciate your advice.
  3. From the album: 2016

    Made for a friend's 50th birthday. Various 'significant' words & phrases stamped inside and out with different letter styles, highlighted with oxide washes before bisque firing. Dipped in transparent glaze & fired to 1100oC in an electric kiln.
  4. It's me again. Some advise please. My teacher suggested I use Indian ink to emphasize crackels in a glazed piece. If I did that would I have to refire? If I used say cobalt or black iron oxide instead of the ink, which would give a better result? The pot in question is
  5. Hi all my local hardware store sells a product called Black Oxide which is used to colour cement. Has anyone tried this is a glaze recipe? I dont know the chemical formula as their product website does not give that information, only that it is derived from anthracite and coal. So I dont know if it can be used for glaze? Can anyone help?
  6. Just starting to do pottery at home. Have inherited many bags (40+) of cone 4-6 glazes, stains and oxides and I am overwhelmed by all of it. I have done some pottery before but in a school where all the material was premixed. I know how to mix powdered glaze with water, no problem, but don't know how to mix the stains and oxides. Plus, I don't know where to start. Do I start trying out just one glaze or do I prepare small batches and do a series of test tiles?
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