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Found 8 results

  1. Hello. I have a hige problem with bubbles in my work. It is slipcasted porcelain in a closed mould. Does anyone know what the problem could be? The air shouldn't be trapped as there are enough holes in the highest places. The bubbles are inside and on top and bottom of the casting. I would really,really appreciate any help!! Anna
  2. Hey guys, Quick question I can't seam to find much information on. I'm slipcasting a shape from a two piece mould and it leaves a seam down the side of my piece. I sand it as greenware then again as bisque before stoneware firing and wondering if seams are just inevitable. It could possibly be a combination of protruding just enough to be visible but also a discoloration effect. I have experimented a little but just wondering if you guys find that seams are just unavoidable or are usually very easy to get rid of. I'm possibly not doing enough to remove them. I'm not glazing the seamed area. Thanks.
  3. Hi all, I am trying to figure out how to make figures reminiscent of Staffordshire pottery, such as the following (sorry it's so big): Apparently these were made using press molds. But I have no idea how the original was made and cast. I bought Plaster Mold and Model Making by Chaney and Skee, but I still don't feel any closer to figuring out this fundamental question. For example, is the original made of clay and then cast before firing? (Obviously, something like the above piece would need several molds in order to create it.) Or were the multiple pieces fired first and then cast? If so, if the parts were thicker than an inch, were they completely dried before firing and then fired at a low temperature? (If this is the method you would recommend, what temperature do you think would be safe to go to?) I found the following very interesting site of an artist working in this old style, but she is using oil-based clay, and somehow I don't think the Old English potters were using that: https://porcelainmenagerie.wordpress.com/ Anyway, if anyone has any info on this (books, advice, etc.), I would be ever so grateful! Thanks in advance, Havely
  4. Hi Everyone, I am a newbie and would like to learn how do we make ceramic pots or tiles. Currently, I am stuck in an application where i need to make a ceramic top for an instrument which can withstand temperature upto 500 C. The instrument is similar to a Hot Plate. Any knowhow on how to make such ceramic tops will be a great help for completing my project on time. Thanks in advance., Vinod
  5. Dear All, I am a newbie in this field and would like to get any know-how regarding the making of a ceramic (hot) top similar to Hotplates used in labs. Thanks in Advance
  6. Hi guys, I have some pieces I want to cast in plaster for a mould. The pieces will not be particularly flexible and I worry they wont release properly. Its a basic vase shape that narrows in at the top like a pair- this taper part is a 6cm diameter x 8cm long pipe that I feel the plaster will grip too tightly to release and slip out. I haven't had much luck with soft soap and I'm wondering could I rub a candle on my piece to give it a shiny and slightly slippery surface for the plaster to cast? I worry it will ruin the porosity of the mould though. Has anyone done such a thing? Other solutions are welcome but I'm mostly wondering if wax will ruin plaster or there are similar products that wont. Cheers!
  7. Hi there, this is my first post on this very helpful site. I can't seem to find much information anywhere about using rubber to make mold masters for recreating slipcast molds. I have been experimenting with making rubber masters of my molds (mostly 2 to 3 piece molds). But I find that whenever I pour a new mold from the master, they don't quite fit together as well as the original. I have experimented with a few different types of rubber, but am limited to products that don't need degassing. Is there any one particular product that is recommended for use in this situation? I've attached a couple of photos to show how I am constructing my masters. The blue handle mold was made using Smooth-on Oomoo 25 (which is very soft), and the light colored one was made using Polytek Polygel 35. Any little tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  8. Lets say you have to slipcast relatively large bowls. Top diameter (widest) is about 45 cm (18.3") and hight is about the same. Final walls (after firing) can not be thicker than 6 mm and the shape is relatively complicated (not just a nice upside-down arch). Q: Is it better to use low, mid or high fire clay? Or lets ask this way: will low fire white clay warp less than a mid- or high temp white clay or half porcelain. Pieces will be glazed with what ever the clay temp requires (forget the glaze for now)
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