Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'low fire'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Ceramic Arts Daily Forums
    • Forum FAQ & Terms of Use
    • Studio Operations and Making Work
    • Clay and Glaze Chemistry
    • Equipment Use and Repair
    • Business, Marketing, and Accounting
    • Educational Approaches and Resources
    • Aesthetic Approaches and Philosophy
    • Int'l Ceramic Artists Network (ICAN) Operations and Benefits
    • Ceramic Events of Interest

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 19 results

  1. Aloha, I currently teach ceramics in a middle school and would love to know what clay body most teachers are using in their classroom. Actually, to those veteran educators working with kids what is your favorite clay? My first few years I used Soldate 60 because that is what I inherited. I enjoyed working with this clay body, but I decided to try Laguna Buff with Sand and EM-210 White since they are low fire and I have a lot of low fire glazes. My students hated the Buff with Sand because it was rough and honestly I couldn't pull a handle from a fresh bag of clay. I then decided to try a more plastic clay and smooth clay, so now I am using Laguna White EM-210. I have encountered several issues with dunting and shivering and want to get a new clay body for next year but am unsure which clay to order. Being a teacher with over 200 students I do not have time to troubleshoot firing issues and want to purchase premixed clay and glazes to ensure successful results. I don't mind troubleshooting issues at my home studio, but I want to go with the sure thing at school and not have to worry about shivering, adding feldspar to change the ph level of my clay body, or have to play around with different firing schedules only to get bad results. Thanks in advance for your support.
  2. Hello! I have been harvesting a beautiful blue marbled clay, processing it, and then making cups. I did a test-bisque at cone 04 which turned out great, but the low-fire glaze that I applied afterward (cone 05-06 glaze) did not absorb easily and took several hours to dry. Is it worth trying to fire it anyways? And in the future: Will I run into complications if I bisque at a lower temperature (cone 05-08?) then apply glaze and fire at 05? The glaze directions say to bisque at cone 04, but I'm assuming its not necessary if the clay I'm working with is extremely low-fire? Thanks for the help! I am a beginner ceramicist working at home with access to a community kiln. I have never worked with locally harvested clay before and its amazing but difficult to figure it all out.
  3. starsbythedoor

    Glaze Melding

    Hi everyone! I am am new to ceramics after moving to it from metal clay. Things are going well but there is one constant error. I have a small jewellery kiln and it fires to the correct temp and the ceramic and glaze is working fine APART from where the object touches the kiln shelf on a glaze fire. I make pendants and rings mostly and it is so upsetting to have the items ruined or stuck to the shelf!! I use low fire stoneware clay and low fire glazes. So my question is what do I fire my pieces on. I have seen metal kiln furniture, is that the way forward? I am hoping you can help me, if you need any more info from me let me know! Thank you! Emma xxx
  4. Linda Lees

    IMG 6865

    From the album: Curves and Crisp Edges

    Slab built using Feeney's Red Raku clay and glazed with Mayco Elements Burnished Steel

    © Linda Lees

  5. Linda Lees

    IMG 6818

    From the album: Curves and Crisp Edges

    Slab built from Feeney's Red Raku clay. Glazed with Mayco Copper Adventurine

    © Linda Lees

  6. Yvanox

    Crater Slip

    I am looking to find a slip recipe for trailing. I need something bubbly, fluffy like a crater glaze or something like that. I'm looking for a rough concrete look with little holes... any idea or low fire recipes ?
  7. howdy. I have been experimenting with low fire glaze that is safe for food use with stoneware clay. I am firing bisque at cone 05 and glaze firing to cone 05. My mugs look great and then I add in hot water and they start to craze. the craze is faint but, I can see lines. Should I bisque fire to 04 and keep glaze to 05? I have an old kiln so, I don't really want to use any high fire glazes so, this works best for me. Any advice will help.
  8. Dear all, This is a rather odd post in that i am brand new to pottery and manage an art studio in a resort in the Maldives. I have received a kiln from China which is a front loading, electric machine with no pre programmed programmes.... I have amaco low fire clay (red and white) and am wondering what to input in my kiln for bisque firing. The clay is to be fired to cone 04 1077 degrees C, but im not sure on the ramp/timings? I'm really stuck with this now....there doesn't seem to be any clear info available to me online and the supplier sent me instructions on HOW to programme but not what to input (understandable). If anyone can give me a nice step by step explanation on what to input, temps, for how long (whole profile) I would be so grateful! Does anyone use the Amaco low fire clay? Many humble thanks in advance! Melissa
  9. Hi everyone, I have been trying to get a definitive answer to whether or not my low fire shino is truly food safe. Here is the recipe: Lithium carb 26 Neph sy 64 EPK 10 I know that the powdered form of lithium carbonate is considered toxic and precautions should be used in glaze preparation. However once it it fired to maturity (cone 04 for this glaze) it is converted to lithium oxide. I could me misunderstanding, but I have read that in the oxide form, it is safe. Can anyone shed any light on this for me? I love this glaze for its semi-matte texture, beautiful color development, and interesting reactions with other glazes. If it isn't food safe, I would love to know how I could alter it so that it is. Thank you in advance for your help! Sloane
  10. Cindygibs

    Cone 1 Glaze Recipes

    Does anyone know of any cone 1 glazes? I know Linda Arbuckle has information of them and so does Charlie Cummings. However, I'm still searching for the right recipe to be fired in a soda kiln to cone 1. Thanks,
  11. Dear esteemed Ceramic Artists, I am a novice potter with a history in painting. I live in Brazil where supplies are very expensive and I am operating on a budget. I have a friend visiting from the States and I would like her to bring me some glazes. My question is this: I will be using a low fire kiln and want to get a good range of glazes to make foodsafe pieces. I want to be able to mix colours and paint images with glaze -(it has been suggested I get majolica style glazes to be able to paint on the pieces and see the results). I have been trying to understand the terms and the huge variety of products out there and that brings me to you... for example, AMACO has a series of glazes called Teacher's Pallet which suggests that you could mix their red with yellow and achieve an orange. I want to be able to see what I am painting and I want the colour on the unfired piece to look the same when I fire it. I would appreciate any advice that would help me put together a "beginner's kit" that would allow me to mix and create a full spectrum of colours. What products or manufacturers could you suggest for me? Thank you VERY much for your time.
  12. I would like to press sand onto the surface to cone 06 clay before bisque firing. Can I create a sand-like surface this way?
  13. I fired some commercial bisque tiles that were painted with a low fire glaze ^05. Now strange things are happening to the tiles. Water keeps appearing on the surface and back of the fired tiles. I have used the same tiles and glaze for years and have never seen anything like this. Please help J
  14. Hi everyone, Mayco makes a clear "Pottery Cascade" which allows commercial glazes to melt and run together at low cone temps. I would like to create this on my own but am not sure which ingredients would produce the best result. Can anyone suggest a recipe? Thanks.
  15. Hello! So, I'm planning on making two gargoyles to protect my home. Sadly, my kiln is a tired old man and only likes to fire in earthenware. Anyone here have experience with this? I was thinking a heavily grogged terracotta that is fired to ^03 might be my best option, but I'm not sure. The statues will not be glazed, as South Dakota winters are lethal to glazed ware!!
  16. What is your favorite clay for slab building small projects. Grog or no grog? Porcelain? Thanks! Linda
  17. Hello, I am curious about the incorporation of metals into ceramic sculpture for aesthetic reasons. At my university we use mostly stoneware (although we can make or buy our own clay bodies) and the ^10 is the normal firing temp although we can independently fire at lower cones. To use metals with the sculpture they must obviously be bisque fired together- as they will be apart of the clay (there will be obvious shrinkage but I plan to accommodate that) I guess my question is, if I were to use stoneware (for sculpture) and fire at a lower temp say... Bisque at 06 and fire at ^5 - ^6 up to the melting point of the metal used ... Would it make the sculpture super fragile considering the stoneware wasn't fired to it's fully matured temp... Any suggestions on a hardy low fire (^5 -6) clay body, or what metal should be used... What all metals CAN be used? I am curious about bronze (which would have to be fired at an even lower temp) or maybe just tiny scraps of steel... These metal pieces will be small decorations protruding out from the sculpture- and I'm not even sure if this is possible, I'm somewhat inexperienced, but if anyone has any info I would GREATLY appreciate it! Thank you! -June
  18. Hi all, I'm taking a ceramics class and our teacher provided us with ^06 clay. I didn't realize how low-fire that was until it was too late to start my project over...in fact, she had told us that it was ^6 not ^06. I'm a little concerned as I am making a teapot and don't think I will be able to glaze inside the spout, and have read that unglazed areas of low-fire clay are fairly porous and are not generally considered foodsafe. Should I be concerned that the teapot I spent hours and hours on might not be safe to actually use? Any ideas for how to properly glaze the inside of the pour spout? Thanks!
  19. BARAKE SCULPTOR

    STRAY DOG PUP

    From the album: SCULPTOR

    LOW FIRE CLAY SCULPTURE

    © Barake Sculptor

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.