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Found 6 results

  1. Hi There, I have an e23T L&L kiln. I have 1/4" holes in the bottom of the kiln. There are 2. I've been having trouble with bloating and pin holes during glazing. A colleague suggested I might need to drill a couple of holes in the lid to help with the air circulation. I read in the L&L manual not to add more holes. How can I tell if I need more holes or not? Thanks!
  2. dazzlepottery

    Propping Kiln Lid

    When I am firing my electric kiln, I start with the lid propped open about 2 inches and the top peephole out. Then at around 1000 degrees F I shut the lid. The top peephole is open the whole time. I understand that the lid needs to be propped to allow moisture and gasses to escape in the early stages of firing. My questions are: 1) is 1000F an appropriate temp to close the lid? 2) Is it necessary to prop the lid on a ^6 glaze firing as well as the bisque, or only during the bisque (^06) I have been firing this way for a couple years and the pots always come out well. However the lid has badly cracked on both the inside and outside, necessitating repair with kiln cement. I have a large electric Skutt Kiln (I think it's the 1227). Even with my repair, it is all fractured and occasionally falls onto the pots below. The metal handle is also badly rusted and corroded, an issue I didn't notice when I bought this kiln used a couple years ago. I notice when I close the lid on an 1000F kiln it makes a soft settling crackling noise. I am curious if the cracking lid is from thermal shock when it goes from hot room temp to 1000F. Because of this, i wonder if it's better not to close it so late (and hot) in the firing. Perhaps it's just time for an envirovent. Is it normal for a lid to start to deteriorate like this? The newer versions of my kiln are made with the hydraulic lid lifter, which I assume lifts it more evenly, without the torque from supporting it on just one part. Please let me know if anyone else has had this cracking lid issue. -Dana
  3. Good evening! my husband and I have a smaller Duncan and a digital Paragon kiln and are looking at a used Duncan kiln that is about 29" wide and 26" tall and the ceramic outer hard shell has come off about 1/3 or 1/4 of the top with a few areas coming off on the underside (of the lid). I have read many forums on here that have been very helpful and noticed that there is a Paragon dealer/rep in Texas who comments on Duncan parts, etc. Well, I am wondering, would we need to replace this lid right away if we got it or is it safely operable still? Or is there any way to repair the ceramic fiber (specifically outer layer)? I know on my Paragon with firebrick on the lid, we can, but noticed in the manual it says to ask a Duncan/Paragon rep. Thank you!
  4. GiselleNo5

    Teapot Lid Detail

    From the album: Pottery 2016

    White stoneware, thrown on the wheel as a "chopstick" jar and then altered into a teapot. I added the little hand-shaped flower knob. Fired at ^6 in an electric kiln. Laguna's Dynasty Red and Peach Blush, Duncan Concepts Bright Kiwi as the underglazed leaves and stems.

    © Giselle No. 5 Ceramics 2016, all rights reserved

  5. I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on the type of cement to use to make a new kiln lid. Have been searching but haven't found anything that's made for lids, most cements I have found say not to use on lids. I am in the process of making a new gas kiln and would like to cement this one instead of drilling and cinching with all thread as I did on the last kiln. I have some amaco kiln cement, would this work? Will be firing mostly to cone 5-6 with an occasional cone 10.
  6. Judy_in_GA

    Tripod Pot

    From the album: Handbuilding work

    This little bisque tripod pot was formed using Sandi Pierantozzi's method. Slab rolled, gutter cover rolled into the slab with a pony roller then formed into a cylinder and pinch the feet. I added the lid using the same method except it was four "feet" and using a different gutter cover for the texture.
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