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Found 160 results

  1. Kiln Install on Deck

    Hi all! I'm currently in the process of installing a kiln. I live in the city and the kiln is going on our outdoor deck. I understand there is a fire hazard. The plan is to install a base steel sheet, a layer of cinder blocks, then a layer of bricks, and lastly another sheet of steel. This would then have the kiln stand on it. I have a small L &L easy-Fire 2.6 cu ft electric kiln. I fire to cone 04 at hottest. It will have sufficient spacing from surrounding walls. It will also be protected from weathering. I'm looking for advice on raising the kiln. Does my plan sound sufficient? Is it overkill? At most I will be firing this kiln here for a year. Thank you for your help! Warmly, Kaylee Anderson
  2. I work at a community studio, and we leave our vent fans running until the kilns are completely cool and ware is removed. I just fired my first glaze fire in my own kiln at home, and I'm questioning whether to leave the fan running after the firing has been completed. I have a 7 cubic foot L&L kiln with 3" brick and programmed it with a slow cooling cycle. Will the vent fan cause the kiln to cool too quickly and thus undo anything I might have accomplished with my program? I fire kilns three times a week at work, but I feel like I've never fired a kiln before now that it's my own kiln. Silly! Thank you in advance. Richarde
  3. Evening Ceramic Arts Community, After a long stint of teaching without a kiln, and then having the opportunity to work for a semester with one, I got the bug again and remembered how much I love clay under my fingernails. Serendipity steps in and I'm offered a free kiln just to clear it out of its current residence. Hopeful, but hesitant I visit the kiln to snap some pics and see what I can find out, as its been a long time since undergrad... So please take a look and let me know if/ what can be done. Skutt Model K Crack in the brick on kiln floor Flashing peeled away on base Lid loose, hinge partially attached. Chip in brick along top edge Exposed elements Much obliged, Eric
  4. New Kiln Prep

    Hiya, I've been lurking for a good while, but now I need to ask a newbie question please. I've just had my first kiln delivered - I can't play with it yet because it's not wired in. The instructions say I need to 'burn in' the kiln and furniture before first use, so am I correct to assume that this should be done before I put kiln wash on the shelves? Cheers, Annette
  5. I am rebuilding an AIM Gas Kiln model 2327G (About the size of a Skutt KM1027). I'm looking for help in finding a operating manual or copy of original instructions. I called Aim and they don't have instructions for the older gas kilns anymore. I'm interested in if there were baffles originally at the bottom of the kiln to redirect the flame. It has 3 Gaco 75,000 BTU burners and is set up for Natural Gas. It's about 20 feet from my Gas meter on a 3/4" line. Any input or help would be appreciated. I intend to fire at Cone 10 reduction.
  6. Hi There, I have an e23T L&L kiln. I have 1/4" holes in the bottom of the kiln. There are 2. I've been having trouble with bloating and pin holes during glazing. A colleague suggested I might need to drill a couple of holes in the lid to help with the air circulation. I read in the L&L manual not to add more holes. How can I tell if I need more holes or not? Thanks!
  7. I fired my kiln last night same as I have been for the last 2+ years to cone 03 usually takes about 7.26 hours, half way through I went to check the kiln and the orton sentry xpress control board displayed CPLT @ 4.11 it was still at 1400 degrees F so I waited til this morning to open it and 4 shelves of beads and pendants were completely melted i mean gone! a giant blob of glass 4 shelves deep I dont understand what happened, I fired the same as always, the control bored should have gave me an error message if it got too hot, my question is could my work have melted like this not because it got too hot but because it reached temperature twice as fast as normal?? a few months back i woke up to a kiln load of glazed ware that didnt finish fring the display read HTDE Heat temperature deviation kiln shut off because relay got stuck or something, i never figured it out i refired and watched the kiln and it worked without issue until today, and one more thing to add is that if the relay was stuck bridged than i would have had to physically shut off the kiln would have still been hot but the kiln read Completed after just 4 hours also the control bored would give an error if it overheated, I cant let this happen again, paragon wants to send replacement parts but i want to know what the problem even is, they said replace the control bored and the relay but why? which is it and what happened, did my kiln furniture and jewelry all melt because it fired too fast or did my kiln get too hot and somehow bypass showing an error message? and once again as far as it appears kiln seems to be working again thanks for any help! P.s. I attached images to see what happened to my high fire kiln shelves when fired to cone 03 in 4 hours and 11min
  8. Being a less-than-tall person, I bought an L&L 18" deep kiln - I couldn't reach the bottom of the 27â€ers. Kiln works great, tho I have to add degrees to the cone offset for 04 bisquing, and remove some from cone 6, ( according to my witness cones). Actually right now I’m using the cone 5 setting and that seems to get my 6 cone to the right spot. My e28s has 4 elements and 2 thermocouples, and this creates some challenges. I get even responses from my witness cones only if I fire with only 2 shelves. With 3 shelves in, the witness cones vary widely. I’ve tried every variation on shelf placement I can think of, including staggering and using 2 1/2 half shelves. The manufacturer says that you need 2 elements and 1 thermocouple per shelf, and I’m pretty sure I also read that the shelves should clear the elements. With my kiln , that means you can only have 2 shelves in, and when I follow these guidelines the kiln gods do favor me with matching witness cones. This has all turned out not to be a big problem for me anyway, because I haven’t had as much time as I’d hoped I would to be making stuff. Also running the kiln seems to cost me only about $10 a month for 3-4 firings. I expected the cost to be much higher. I'm making less at one time, but also getting more instant gratification, (instant being a relative term when applied to a slowly cooling kiln). Should I be less concerned about matching cones? I assume it's a matter of degree. It can be more than 1 cone. Also, I have been "lidding" the load with the 2 unused half shelves because I feel I should have them in there to increase the thermal mass, which is already 1/3 less than what the kiln could hold. Any thoughts on that? Thank you in advance for your advice and experience Irene in NJ
  9. Yahoo...I have saved enough for a new kiln and am ready to start shopping. I have been using a manual kiln where holds and ramping etc are not a choice so I am excited to move forward... But there are so many choices and this kiln has to last forever and fit my needs. I fire cone 6 and generally make small functional ware. But I want something that will grow with me, maybe cone 10 someday. I have saved enough for the best. So what are your recommendations and features I should look for Thanks
  10. Hi Everyone, Wondering if anyone has put an electric kiln in garage. I'm aware of the fumes, flammables, and other risks but my primary purpose is to just do bisque fires. I don't want to install vent hoods and other ventilation parts and just want to open my garage doors. Thoughts and inputs are greatly appreciated.
  11. Hi everyone, What will happen to bisque work that has fired too hot for too long? I fired a bisque on Thursday night, and realized on Tuesday morning when I checked it that it was still at 1234 degrees and not cooling. It said "Complete". I hit stop, and it didn't begin cooling (although said Idle), so I turned off the circuit breaker. I have a kiln electrician coming out to check on the kiln, but my biggest concern is the work inside (not my work, but student work). I assume it's ruined?
  12. Hello, My name is Benjamin i reside in WNY, I haven't had much experience in pottery / ceramics although Ive always wanted to. My experience is more in drawing / animation / music. I recently came across a kiln at what seems to be a fair price, but honestly have no idea. Pretty sure the label reads Buffalo Ceramic and Art supply. ( Im near Buffalo NY so that makes sense) . haven't found that name online. I did request better pictures because the pictures are blurry so thats not much help...but any info Id sincerely appreciate. Not looking for anything spectacular , just something usable for hobby crafts and maybe something with my kids. Thank you and best regards...Benjamin .
  13. Hi I have recently purchased a Skutt 1027 Specifications: Model: KS-1027 Volts: 208 Amps: 48 PH: 1 Is it possible to upgrade it to get up to cone 10?
  14. My gas kiln is powered by two venturi burners, of uncertain specification and unknown origin. I have a feeling that they are more than a little inefficient, and in any case are sometimes very finicky to use. I also suspect that they are over-powered for the size of kiln I have. It may be that they could be re-jetted, or something, but to be honest I'd rather just get some modern burners. So, before I buy some new burners, I'd like to be sure I'm getting the correct specification. The kiln is a traditionally designed down-draft, more or less cubic in shape, with a sprung arch. The overall interior volume is 20 cubic feet. The burners fire horizontally into minimally bag-walled fireboxes, from diametrically opposite corners. Gas is bottled propane. The walls of the kiln are 4-inch thick soft IFBs, with a further 2 inch layer of ceramic fibre on the outside. Chimney is a little over 12 feet. The maximum performance required from the kiln is to fire to cone 6 in 8 hours (less would be good). Often, I'm only firing earthenware to cone 03. According to what I can find, the kiln theoretically requires 200,000 Btu per hour, so 2 x 100,000 Btu burners should be about right. Any kiln gurus out there who can tell me if I'm about right in my findings? I'd like to get it right! Many thanks!
  15. Greetings everyone! This is my first post. I'm wanting to start a hobby studio, I've been making pottery for a few months now and think I am ready for a low-cost studio in my small space. I have been online obsessing over different wheels, and have been drawn to the Speedball Artista, considering that I can sometimes find it online for 200-250 dollars. I found a listing that offers an Artista wheel and a Skutt KS-609 ($500 for wheel and kiln, I will have to drive 6-7 hrs to get it too). ​From what I can see, Skutts are great, but I'm worried that this kiln is too small. The big plus ​is that it plugs into a standard 120V outlet (of course, with a dedicated fuse). It has a 9"x11" internal dimension. Anyone have experience with this kiln? Is this a good price for both? What stuff could I fire with it? Thanks for helping me find and finally acquire a wheel and small kiln. -Adam
  16. Hi everyone! New member here, I've been reading posts left and right, so much helpful information! I thought I read a post similar to my question but I can't seem to find it now ... I am a pretty new potter (been years since I worked with clay whatsoever) and have been trying to find a potter with kiln space I can rent on a regular basis, or pay per load. I am trying to work with solely porcelain, but am having difficulty finding somewhere to fire it. The studio kiln I have access to only allows firing and glazing of clay bought from them (understandable), and I am unable to have a kiln in my apartment (nor do I feel comfortable having one until I've been doing this steadily for a good 6 months-1 year or more). I checked the kiln space list on the big ceramic store page, and haven't heard anything from the two potters listed for my state (NC). Does anyone happen to know of any potters in the Winston-Salem/Raleigh/Charlotte area (mid-to-western North Carolina) that might be willing to meet me and set up an arrangement for me to fire my work in their kiln? I would be firing porcelain to cone 10 for bisque ware, and to cone 6 for glazing (using food safe glazes). The size of my pieces would be small (teacups and bowls holding 8-12 oz. or roughly a 1/4 L, ) and very small (pendants/earrings). Thickness of each piece would be 1/2" at most (about 1 1/4 cm). I would like to also fire some plates for dinnerware, but can hold off on that for now if only a small kiln is available for use. If anyone knows anyone or can point me in the direction of where I need to look it would be greatly appreciated!
  17. I just got a little Firecraft P-1317 . There is no max temp anywhere on it and no documentation (only for the PerfectFire controller). It's a 240V, 20Amp, 17.5"W x 13.5"H. I have looked everywhere on the net for info. Does anyone here have an idea of what this kiln is rated for? I generally work ^6 stoneware and would like to use it for that. Any and all thoughts are greatly appreciated!
  18. Hi everyone, I'm really hoping you can give me some advice on possibly what to expect from this event. Our kiln is electric and was set going yesterday for a bisque firing at 3pm after school finished, I came in this morning to find the kiln still on, hovering at 987*c, the target temperature on the electronic control was 1000*c before ramping down. I can only assume that its been stuck at almost the top temperature for around 8-9 hours. The main problem being that the only option I've had is just to switch the kiln off and let it cool down, and if it was just my work I wouldn't be so worried, however the kiln currently contains final exam pieces from our students so I am very worried, I am new to ceramics and learning every day but this is something I've never encountered. How will being held at so close to top temperature for such a long time affect it? Am I going to open the door to a kiln full of shards? Thanks for any help you can give.
  19. Glaze Melding

    Hi everyone! I am am new to ceramics after moving to it from metal clay. Things are going well but there is one constant error. I have a small jewellery kiln and it fires to the correct temp and the ceramic and glaze is working fine APART from where the object touches the kiln shelf on a glaze fire. I make pendants and rings mostly and it is so upsetting to have the items ruined or stuck to the shelf!! I use low fire stoneware clay and low fire glazes. So my question is what do I fire my pieces on. I have seen metal kiln furniture, is that the way forward? I am hoping you can help me, if you need any more info from me let me know! Thank you! Emma xxx
  20. Advice On Old Kiln

    Hello, I've just been given an old kiln and I'm not sure what it needs or even if it's worth spending money on (of which I don't have much) It is a Tetlow (an Australian brand) Model TP6, 15amp, 3 kw, 50HZ Phase 1. It has a thermocouple, does this go in the hole on the front or top? The box on the outside of the kiln has a dial that goes from 0-100, with the words Simmerstat, Sunvic, made in the UK. I've been told that the elements have been replaced. It's a small kiln, 380mm x 380mm x 470mm. I've returned to ceramics after a break of about 20 years. Both in the past and more recently I haven't fired my own work, I've been a member of a club where the group members' works were fired for them, so my knowledge is very limited. I'm wondering if I can add a Digital Temperature Controller, I've found one on eBay from a seller in Canada that's not too expensive. Any info anyone can give me will be gratefully received
  21. I am noticing a slight increase in time to run a cone 6 glaze firing and my witness cones are starting show slightly less of a bend than previously so I think it's time to start planning an element replacement. I am at 180 total firings, 87 cone 6 slow glaze, 72 cone 04 slow Bisque and 21 cone 05 slow glaze transfer firings. I've never done this before sooooo how hard is it? Do I need to replace anything else while I am doing it? Like relays, pins, high temp connectors, etc? I have an Olympic Freedom 1823HE. I have found a repair man that will come down from the John C Campbell school and do it but I have no idea what price range I am looking at for the job. I'd also really REALLY like to learn to do it myself BUT don't want to mess up my kiln. I think knowing how to replace the elements in my kiln is vital to my growth as a potter, I like to understand how things work and go together, etc. Sooooo honestly speaking how hard is it and are there any tricks I should know going in? OR Should I just bite the bullet and let someone else do it for me? Thank you all once again for your help. T
  22. Hi, I am new to ceramic glazing. Are there any methods that can duplicate fire-based glazing on ceramics? I work at home, so i do not have access to kiln. I have read there are oven-based glazes and non-fire based glaze. How effective are they in terms of the glaze (will it be similar to fire glazed plate)? Thank You.
  23. I recently purchased an old Gare ( or Evenheat) Kiln model 2327. Evenheat still makes this high fire kiln but, when I searched their website they only provide a manual for their newer model of the 2327. I am looking for the manual pertaining to the older model 2327. the kiln I purchased is equipped with a kiln sitter model LT-3K which has a timer dial as well. the controller uses a series of 6 (on/off) switches to control which elements are heated, I am also looking for a firing schedule for these switches. If you have any tips or suggestions on operating and firing this kiln please feel free to add to the conversation. Any bit of information is helpful. Thanks all!
  24. I recently acquired a kiln, and sadly I have no clue about it. It was my grandmother's, but she never got anywhere as far as information on it due to family health problems. Please if you have any information on these kilns will you please pass it along?? Thank you in advance!!!
  25. Propping Kiln Lid

    When I am firing my electric kiln, I start with the lid propped open about 2 inches and the top peephole out. Then at around 1000 degrees F I shut the lid. The top peephole is open the whole time. I understand that the lid needs to be propped to allow moisture and gasses to escape in the early stages of firing. My questions are: 1) is 1000F an appropriate temp to close the lid? 2) Is it necessary to prop the lid on a ^6 glaze firing as well as the bisque, or only during the bisque (^06) I have been firing this way for a couple years and the pots always come out well. However the lid has badly cracked on both the inside and outside, necessitating repair with kiln cement. I have a large electric Skutt Kiln (I think it's the 1227). Even with my repair, it is all fractured and occasionally falls onto the pots below. The metal handle is also badly rusted and corroded, an issue I didn't notice when I bought this kiln used a couple years ago. I notice when I close the lid on an 1000F kiln it makes a soft settling crackling noise. I am curious if the cracking lid is from thermal shock when it goes from hot room temp to 1000F. Because of this, i wonder if it's better not to close it so late (and hot) in the firing. Perhaps it's just time for an envirovent. Is it normal for a lid to start to deteriorate like this? The newer versions of my kiln are made with the hydraulic lid lifter, which I assume lifts it more evenly, without the torque from supporting it on just one part. Please let me know if anyone else has had this cracking lid issue. -Dana
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