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Found 3 results

  1. I know this kind of thread has been done many times. I've read lots of them, watched lots of YouTube videos and clayart topics. From this I have learnt there are many problems with this kind of conversion. I have never fired with gas, but I love the look of reduction glazes and my old electric kiln was nearly dead anyway. Following a recent house move I faced the prospect of a costly electrician bill to install it in our outbuilding, and decided that converting it to gas would be comparable in cost. Initially I was going to do an updraft kiln. After reading many uneven firing woes I decided the cost and hassle of building a chimney would be worthwhile. I decided to spend a decent amount of money on a burner. I know one burner kilns aren't as good as 2 but I don't have money for another one. Mine will fire up to a 10 cubic ft kiln apparently. It has flame failure protection and a needle valve so it should be ok to fire my small kiln hopefully. My kiln is 17" width and 22" deep so around 3 cubic ft. So burner is overkill but perhaps I will build a bigger kiln from scratch in the future and I don't want to have to buy more burners. After ordering the burner I read this thread which is very close to what I intend to do. Joel originally had a very similar burner to mine, although his was 90 degree and mine is straight. I'm worried that this doesn't bode well for my success as he totally changed burner setup after failing to reach temp. I do think there might be something in the comments about his chimney size though... So I'm going to press on with a larger chimney. I'm hopefully goes to collect some 230x114x76mm insulation bricks next week. I have worked out on paper my chimney setup. Things I need to decide now: 1. Do I use 50/50 fireclay and grog mix with some sodium silicate or something else like expensive kiln mortar to stick bricks together. 2. Burner port placement. There isn't going to be much room at the base of kiln with that chimney opening. Can I have a burner port above the floor shelf? I guess pots directly in flame path would get too hot. 3. Connecting chimney to kiln opening. This needs to be insulated, so do I use like a 2cm thick strip of kiln brick as a kind of bridge all around the 4 planes of the connection. This would reduce the area of flue but would be worth it? Not sure if that will make sense to anyone? I could ramble all day about this, I will probably just keep posting my progress and hopefully someone may be able to help me out of the darkness and into the light! Edit: the 114 in image should read 76!
  2. I’m a recent grad working on setting up a studio space on a really tight budget, and my current plan is to convert an old electric kiln I got for free into a propane-fueled gas kiln. My original plan was to fire it with a pair of propane weed burners, (like simon leach’s conversion) but it’s occurred to me that could be a safety issue during an overnight preheat. I’m planning to once-fire most of my work to cone 10 reduction, and I’m used to the university gas kilns, which use Venturi burners with pilot lights and safety shut offs. My usual firing schedule is an 8-10 hour overnight preheat, bring it up to cone 06 slowly (4-5+ hours, reducing 012-09) and then up to 10 quickly(1-2+ hours) and letting it cool naturally. Obviously I’ll be monitoring the kiln while it’s firing, but I’m worried about the preheat. On the other hand, I don’t have a ton of money laying around until I can start firing work to sell, and proper kiln/forge/raku burners are prohibitively(for now)expensive. Does anyone have any advice for this? Maybe an inexpensive burner actually designed for long-term use? Or an alternative firing schedule that doesn’t call for me to be awake and alert for 16-24 hours?
  3. I have the opportunity to buy a large 3 phase kiln - metal frame, ceramic fibre - 900mmx800mmx800mm with lots of added kiln furniture... so it is very tempting. I really want it for its size but it uses 3 phase which I do not have. I am on acreage and the cost of bringing 3 phase to my house is too much. It draws 37.5 amps. I have a 40amp line from our switchboard on our house to another small switchboard in our studio shed. I like to consider the kiln as a large shell to which I could place new elements and rewire with a new controller. If I could do this for $2-4,000, I would then have a large single phase kiln for a third the price of a new one. Or...I could convert it to gas but it would probably cost a fortune to pass new regulations in Australia. Has anyone done this before and can give advice?

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