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Found 29 results

  1. Hi everyone, I'm really hoping you can give me some advice on possibly what to expect from this event. Our kiln is electric and was set going yesterday for a bisque firing at 3pm after school finished, I came in this morning to find the kiln still on, hovering at 987*c, the target temperature on the electronic control was 1000*c before ramping down. I can only assume that its been stuck at almost the top temperature for around 8-9 hours. The main problem being that the only option I've had is just to switch the kiln off and let it cool down, and if it was just my work I wouldn't be so worried, however the kiln currently contains final exam pieces from our students so I am very worried, I am new to ceramics and learning every day but this is something I've never encountered. How will being held at so close to top temperature for such a long time affect it? Am I going to open the door to a kiln full of shards? Thanks for any help you can give.
  2. Glaze Melding

    Hi everyone! I am am new to ceramics after moving to it from metal clay. Things are going well but there is one constant error. I have a small jewellery kiln and it fires to the correct temp and the ceramic and glaze is working fine APART from where the object touches the kiln shelf on a glaze fire. I make pendants and rings mostly and it is so upsetting to have the items ruined or stuck to the shelf!! I use low fire stoneware clay and low fire glazes. So my question is what do I fire my pieces on. I have seen metal kiln furniture, is that the way forward? I am hoping you can help me, if you need any more info from me let me know! Thank you! Emma xxx
  3. I am asking for suggestions for matte white underglazes or engobes. I would also consider making my own engobe out of my white stoneware clay body but I don't know how. I've never done that. I need it to be able to be painted on bisque ware under my Clear Bright from Laguna. I have tried: - Duncan Concepts white underglaze. It flares up and comes through the clear glaze. Yuck. That's not going to work. - Dune White engobe from Laguna. If applied too thickly it forms micro cracks along the edges. Since this is filling in carving .... I thought I would try Amaco's Velvet White but it says it is only food safe if I use it with their clear. I have extensively experimented with the Clear Bright and my clay bodies and I am not willing to change it. I have been making a series of highly decorated pie plates with carving and slip inlay. I paint wax on a leather-hard piece and then carve through to the clay, then paint it with white stoneware slip. The problem I am having is that the two most recent pieces I've made this way have been horribly pitted, tiny air bubbles formed when I painted on the slip and they did not show up until after it was fired. I thought I had them filled with the glaze but after glaze firing about 20 pits were still open, making a high-investment piece completely unusable. I want to try just carving it plain and painting on/wiping off an underglaze or engobe after it is bisque fired. This is not the item with the issues, this is another one that I made with the same technique.
  4. Re-Firing

    Hello everyone, I have set the kiln to fire at night time and it switched off in the middle of the firing because of a power cut. Can I fire that again to get to the right temperature? Will the glaze be compromised? Thank you! Tatiana
  5. Hi, I'm wondering is anyone can offer any advise!! I loaded my kiln about 9pm last night, and after I switched it from low to medium to high, I went to bed like normal. Today around noon I went in to going unload my stuff from the night before and to my surprise my kiln was still running!!! I turned it off right away. After letting it cool a few hours I was able to peak in the top and my trees looked like this!! They are glazed exactly the same as the other tree in the other picture though. I am wondering if maybe my kiln didn't reach temp. it should have which is why it didn't shut off and these did not fire all the way? Or if they fired to much and they are burnt?? Can anyone help me??
  6. Glaze 101

    Hi guys! Id love to start making my own glazes however I have no idea how to! Where I used to help teach the other artist always made the glazes and now on my own Id love to learn! Ive tried looking it up and watching videos but I just can't get the hang of it! Any help with ideas, recipes, recommendations and options would be great!
  7. Hi all, I have recently purchased a Podmore wheel to find that the whole electrics system needs repairing! not ideal Everything else in the wheel seems in good condition and would be a shame to write the wheel off! My uncle fixes motorbikes and deals with electrics so had a look at it and got it working but then it stopped again. we figure that someone previously has done some soldering work on it and basically it needs a replacement electric system. I rang Potterycrafts who took over Podmore in 1982 and asked if it could be refurbished or if they sell the parts and they said I would need to find an electrician who wanted to fix it for me and the modern wheels are so different electrically wise that we cant even combine the two. The wheel is currently in swindon, Wiltshire. Any ideas of how to get it fixed or who to ask? i really dont want to scrap it
  8. Hello! New user here, I am pretty new to ceramics and just inherited my first kiln! My grandmother passed down a Duncan EA-092 kiln to me, and through internet searches and reading the manual I can not find what its maximum cone temperature is! I read somewhere that someone fired it at 019 (1220 degrees F)....which is a bit disappointing as I wanted to be able to fire at at least cone 5 for the typical clays and glazes I am used to using. I have only been using glazes and kilns through classes, so I have not had much hands on application for firing my own ceramics. My questions are, what is the EA-092 max cone firing. And if it does only fire to 019 what are my options for clays and glazes? Thank you!
  9. Help Replicating Glaze

    I'm hoping someone can tell me how this kind of glaze effect is accomplished or if this is glaze , these were advertised as ceramic plugs so i assumed the color on top is glaze and the sides look like bisque, please help, id love to replicate these colors on my pottery, it looks more like glass then glaze. thanks
  10. Dear All, I am a newbie in this field and would like to get any know-how regarding the making of a ceramic (hot) top similar to Hotplates used in labs. Thanks in Advance
  11. Hi Everyone, I am a newbie and would like to learn how do we make ceramic pots or tiles. Currently, I am stuck in an application where i need to make a ceramic top for an instrument which can withstand temperature upto 500 C. The instrument is similar to a Hot Plate. Any knowhow on how to make such ceramic tops will be a great help for completing my project on time. Thanks in advance., Vinod
  12. New Business (What advice would you give yourself when you started doing Ceramics Full-Time) First, thank you all for taking your time reading this post. I appreciate all the advice and wisdom I can gain from a site like this. I am married to a ceramics artist and I would love to be able to aid her in the desire to run her business full time. I have a business finance background and have mostly done customer service, management or operations management in my young career. This post is not about me though, it is about my wife whom is a very talented ceramics artist whom does not set limits on the success that she can have. She will be graduating in May. My questions are: 1. What would be your first step after graduation if you had the choice to do it over again? 2. What would be your first step in starting your business? ​3. Where is the best place to go to get more exposure to her craft? 4. Is there anywhere that gives Ceramic business discounts to run their business? (Wholesale clay etc...) Any information that you can provide would be great. Feel free to read the following piece my wife's college wrote about her. http://ivyleavesjournal.com/jada-keeran Thanks again!
  13. I'm new to mixing the Laguna dry glazes and Im having a hard time finding specific instructions. I'll be pouring so I'm wondering if anybody has the specific gravity or any other way to determine the correct pouring consistency. Before anybody suggests it, I have requested this information from the manufacturer more than once. I have been referred back to the online instructions which say to add "between 8 and 11 ounces of water per pound of dry glaze". I need more specific instructions than that. The glazes I'm looking for help with are: Power Turquoise Antique Jade Clear Bright Spring Green Navy Blue Peach Blush Blackberry Wine
  14. As some of you may know, I am a beginner on the wheel. I started learning in October of last year when my dad set up his new wheel in my garage since he doesn't have a spot for it yet. (Ohhh the sacrifices I make for him ) In the past year I have gotten to the point where I can pretty much make what I want, though I still can't handle anything over five pounds. I don't feel I'm qualified to teach anybody else, but my dad is really struggling. He wants to retire from his masonry business and use pottery to supplement his pension, so there is a lot of mental pressure on himself to make a success of this as soon as possible. I know from my own experience that this kind of thinking makes the learning go much slower, and I've told him so many times, trying to encourage him to be easier on himself and give it time and patience. Today he came over to throw and I noticed this weird thing. I'm right handed. I throw with the wheel spinning counter-clockwise. When I'm lifting the clay I have my left hand on the inside of the pot and my right hand on the outside at around 3 or 4 o'clock. My dad is also right-handed and uses the same setting on the wheel. But he does everything inside the pot with his RIGHT hand, and the outside with his left. His hands are at 8-9 o'clock on the wheel. He has lots of problems with gouging the pot, thin spots, collapses, etc. etc. etc. and I think that might be why. I told him and he laughed and said that he's always thrown this way ... I never noticed before because he really doesn't like help so I leave him alone when he comes over to throw. He threw one pot "my" way and it actually turned out pretty well but he said it was strange and went back to "his" way with the next pot. My question is, which way is correct? If "my" way is correct, then is it easier to re-learn this way, or should he try throwing on the wheel with the wheel going clockwise instead, as if he's left-handed, and otherwise keep doing everything the same? Any advice or suggestions? (By the way, I think he would benefit from a wheel throwing class but I know he won't do it. He's really discouraged right now.) Is it possible that his struggle with throwing can be as simple as having his hands in the wrong position?
  15. What Is This? Is This Mold?

    Hi! I just came across this wonderful forum page and hopefully someone here can help me out! I recently bought a used kiln but did not have a proper space for it, so I kept it in safe storage for a while. Ive finally built an outside space for it, but unfortunately it had to be left outside covered with a tarp for a few days until the electrician came. Naturally it decided to rain for the entire week, so I'm afraid the tarp didn't fully hold up to its potential. Being that I got the kiln a while ago, I can't remember if the underside of the lid always looked like this. I was wondering what do you think this dark ring looks like? I think it looks like it could be mold, but am not fully sure. Do you think, because of the condensation from the rain, mold started to grow on the underside of the lid? Is there anyways of removing this potential mold by burning it off or scraping it? Hope someone here can help! -G
  16. Hi, I am looking for some advise if possible. I fired my kiln last night but the kiln didn't reach full temperature. I looked at the cone I have in my cone stand and it is not melted. The cone in the sitter either melted or fell off and the kiln shut off. Can I re-fire? As I have not unloaded it, can I just turn it on? Thanks Mal
  17. Put a few hours into this one, It has not been Bisque fired yet, is there anything I can do to salvage it?
  18. I am 20 and have had my own studio for 1year and 6months. From the beginning I purchased a kick wheel from my potter teacher in high school. Then purchased a 1990's cress turbo fire electric kiln for a extreme price(now I know). Used scholarship money to purchase slab roller and coil extruder(should have saved my money). Then purchased a an electric wheel. Learned many things in every aspect of ceramics. Soon discovered the beauty of gas fired wares. Purchased three more small electric kilns for less than the first one. Converted them to gas, worked poorly. Purchased a 1950's 12 cubic feet gas kiln with a lot of damage( I was so exited I had to have it). First firing 1900 degrees with flames coming out of every crack and hole. Spent a fare amount of money on bricks, motor, and fiber. Replaced front wall, door, and lined with fiber. Next firing 1300 F stall out after 18hours. Second 25hours stall at 1850. Fourth firing stuck in the 1800's unable to exceed 1890, it seems this is a dis-functional kiln, will continue the strive for completed firing. So when unable to produce wares is rough on the mind and body when working day and night(as you may know?). When it is your source of income, yet unable to prevail due to many small set backs you become trapped by your work and wont stop until your work is complete. Does anyone know of ways they would search for assistance financially if in my position? Maybe you have had a similar experience to share? Anything helps. Appreciate all help. Enjoy
  19. I have been trying to find an answer to this online with no result. If I were to mix two kinds of premixed casting slip with different shrinkage rates, what would happen? Would the shrinkage average out or would a mushroom cloud obliterate my dad's kiln shed? We want to try mixing Laguna Oriental Pearl (shrinkage 14%) with Lagina White Stoneware (shrinkage 10%). I know that stoneware/porcelain blends exist as a clay form, but I'm not sure how it works with slip.
  20. I fired some commercial bisque tiles that were painted with a low fire glaze ^05. Now strange things are happening to the tiles. Water keeps appearing on the surface and back of the fired tiles. I have used the same tiles and glaze for years and have never seen anything like this. Please help J
  21. I'd like to paint the bottom of my pieces as I don't care for the bare clay look. however I'm firing to cone 5 so I cant use stilts. I've been using Amaco Velvet underglaze which works somewhat but I still get some kiln wash on the piece. any suggestions???
  22. Hi everyone, I am a new middle school art teacher and am interested in having my kids work with clay. I throw and handbuild but have never fired a kiln myself before. I've only loaded/unloaded them. The art room that I inherited in August has a Skutt electric kiln and its model is KS 1027. My predecessor left me a note prior to the start of school saying: "The kiln works fine but during construction a few years ago there was some damage on the side that resulted in a lost knob. I just use one of the other knobs to turn the kiln up or down. It is a makeshift way of doing it but it works fine. You just have to keep track of how you turn the knob." I accessed the PDF manual for this specific kiln and only felt even more confused. Below, you'll find a photo of the red box that is on the front of the kiln. http://oi58.tinypic.com/2n6avj5.jpg The kiln says it fires to cone 6 which is perfect and I intended to bisque fire at cone 06. I'm just not sure how to proceed as I have never even attempted to fire a kiln! Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! C
  23. I just graduated from high school where my teacher would do everything with the kiln. I just got a kiln and am going to start firing my own things. It is a cress cone sitter. I have a bunch of low fire clays around but i plan on getting some potters choice glazes. will the cone 5-6 glaze would work with the low fire clays? what clays would be good for throwing and firing with the potters choice? can i bisque high fire clays at around 04? Im a bit new to firing my own pieces so sorry about all the questions.
  24. I had back surgery six weeks ago to remove portions of a ruptured disk in my lumber (lower back) region. Surgeon says I have two adjacent disks that are degenerating and may rupture if I don't change my ways! Problem is throwing in a sitting position, bent over the wheel. I need to re-learn how to throw while standing. I have access to classes at my local community center, but they have neither a table-top wheel nor an instructor who feels confident in that position. Any videos or books you recommend that deal with this topic? Or artists that use this throwing position? Any tips on converting/raising my Brent Model B to table height are also appreciated.
  25. Hello all, I can't tell you how much help you've been - I've stalked these forums for quite some time. I'm hoping you can help me out with some advice about transporting a kiln I just purchased. I happened across an L&L JD230 that I couldn't pass up and I need to transport it over 200 miles to get it back home. It comes apart in 3 pieces. I've read and read about moving kilns but I am curious if anyone has tried moving a kiln like this without putting it back together during transport. I will be using a truck to move it and I wondered about pulling each section apart and protecting each one individually. The sections could lay next to each other without anything on top, with a buffer so they wouldn't knock together. I guess I'm concerned about the height of the kiln in the back of the truck if we transported it assembled and the possibility it could fall over. I know the brick is the most fragile part of the kiln and I'll do whatever is needed to protect it. Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to give! I'm so super excited to play with my new kiln!
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