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      Ceramic Arts Network is looking for two new forum moderators for the Clay and Glaze Chemistry and Equipment Use and Repair sections of the Ceramic Arts Network Community Forum. We are looking for somebody who is an active participant (i.e. somebody who participates on a daily basis, or near daily) on the forum. Moderators must be willing to monitor the forum on a daily basis to remove spam, make sure members are adhering to the Forum Terms of Use, and make sure posts are in the appropriate categories. In addition to moderating their primary sections, Moderators must work as a team with other moderators to monitor the areas of the forum that do not have dedicated moderators (Educational Approaches and Resources, Aesthetic Approaches and Philosophy, etc.). Moderators must have a solid understanding of the area of the forum they are going to moderate (i.e. the Clay and Glaze Chemistry moderator must be somebody who mixes, tests, and has a decent understanding of materials). Moderators must be diplomatic communicators, be receptive to others’ ideas, and be able to see things from multiple perspectives. This is a volunteer position that comes with an honorary annual ICAN Gold membership. If you are interested, please send an email outlining your experience and qualifications to jharnetty@ceramics.org.

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Found 14 results

  1. Hey y'all -- So I have an old Jenken sitter kiln I got from a retired potter (along with my other equipment). Earlier this year I converted to fire with gas (downdraft), using a homemade cast-iron burner with a squirrel-cage fan. I don't have any issues getting it up to temperature, but I have noticed that it is significantly cooler closer to the bottom of the kiln, and it feels like an unacceptable portion of my work is not getting the heatwork it needs. I don't load anything on the floor of the kiln, but have some bricks to help steer the heat. I've tried a couple configurations, but every time I fire there are very significant differences across the strata of the kiln. I'm pretty frustrated and can use some guidance. Some details The burner sits underneath the kiln and fires upward into the kiln, close to its edge. There is an external chimney made of soft firebrick. The flame enters the chimney through a port on the side of the kiln, which is on the other side from the flame's entry, floor-level. I've cut a little bit off of the shelves I'm using to allow for the heat to move unimpeded. I'm not an expert by any means -- my initial thoughts are that the heat is moving past the first shelf too quickly, or has no reason to linger there. I'm considering placing the second shelf offset, so as to block the flame and persuading it to move around toward the top of the kiln, sort of like a spiral. I'm concerned about possible crackage, though, or any issues I might not be foreseeing. Just curious about any thoughts that y'all might have. I understand that gas kiln conversion problems are probably tricky to diagnose, but I'm wondering if there's something elementary I could try that I've overlooked, or some kind of general troubleshooting checklist for those of you who have more experience tinkering with this method than I do. thanks! Kevin
  2. I am rebuilding an AIM Gas Kiln model 2327G (About the size of a Skutt KM1027). I'm looking for help in finding a operating manual or copy of original instructions. I called Aim and they don't have instructions for the older gas kilns anymore. I'm interested in if there were baffles originally at the bottom of the kiln to redirect the flame. It has 3 Gaco 75,000 BTU burners and is set up for Natural Gas. It's about 20 feet from my Gas meter on a 3/4" line. Any input or help would be appreciated. I intend to fire at Cone 10 reduction.
  3. Good Afternoon, I'm using a Paragon HT22 kiln with the Dwyer gas inlet flow meter. I'm producing small wire springs (stainless steel) that need to be heat treated in order to secure their final form. In my regular smaller kiln, the oxygen in the atmosphere is reacting with the heated stainless steel and results in pretty intense discoloration (brown/dark purple/etc). Using my new kiln with a tank of Nitrogen gas hooked up, I am able to produce springs that have only a slight blue discoloration. This drastic reduction in discoloration/oxidation means that the nitrogen gas is working it's magic, and pushing the vast majority of oxygen out of the kiln, creating an ALMOST perfect inert atmosphere. The question is: IS IT PHYSICALLY POSSIBLE to create a perfectly inert atmosphere in the kiln? Is there something I'm not seeing here? I'm investigating trying to get a higher flow dwyer meter to allow me to pump nitrogen in at a higher rate, but in my gut, I feel like it's not possible. The removal of this blue oxidation requires a chemical bath, which is certainly within my ability to perform, but I'd really rather not. Does anyone have any experience with these gas injected paragon kilns? Any words of wisdom/tips/tricks? Appreciate the help. Kiln on.
  4. Firing

    From the album Gas Kiln

    Turning on the gas
  5. I am struggling to control the heat rise of my gas downdraft - it gets too hot too quickly! I'm test firing empty (I've put in all the kiln shelves) to learn how to control temperature. I'm trying to emulate a slow bisque as I will be firing large, thick sculptural pieces. I'd like to control heat rise to 20 - 30 deg. C per hour, particularly for the first 100 deg. The slowest I've managed is 200 deg. C in 30 minutes! This is with one burner lit, at it's very lowest setting (the flame is JUST clearing the port inside). The top of the kiln heats really quickly and after 30 mins., the top kiln shelves are too hot to touch, but the bottom shelf / false floor is just comfortably warm. I've tried different damper settings to no avail. I'm thinking that there is insufficient draw to pull heat down throughout the chamber. And maybe that my burners are just too powerful for a slow bisque? My next thought is to heat the stack somehow - maybe put a blowtorch in the damper slot to heat the flue air and create some draw. And/or look for a smaller burner that I can use for early stage heating (something like a domestic gas burner that can run at a lower flame/heat setting). I'd REALLY appreciate any feedback/suggestions anyone can offer. Thanks! P.S. It's a converted electric, approx. 8.5 cubic feet. Flue area is 6x6 inches narrowing to a 6 inch diam. pipe. The kiln is fired by 2 venturi burners, using LPG (propane), and the flue outlet matches the area of the burner inlets (as per Olsen).
  6. Hello everyone, I am new to this form, and new to kilns. last week i started trying to make an updraft gas kiln, and it seems i hit a wall that i need some help with. Setup : Kiln inside size : 9" x 18" height 15" first shelf @ 6" Bricks used : Firebricks/ refractory bricks 9x2.5x4.5 ** Dry stacked ** Gas : LP Temperature : K type thermocouple sensor (0-1300 c ) positioned at 9" height on the sidewall and sticking out 1.25" (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UWVZAY8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) The problem : I cannot get the kiln to go more than 1200 degrees Trials : 1- With heat source positioned flush with inside wall, two top bricks open. Temperature rises to 500 f within 5 minutes and then within 10 minutes to 600 degrees. From then on temperature will stay between 600-700 degrees even after 45 minutes. adjusting the gas flow at times helps get it to temperature. 2- Continuation of 1 : top bricks closed... temperature drops fast to 400 degrees and with adjusting the gas down to accomodate less oxygin i can bring it back up to 600-650 3- Same as 1 but after 30 minutes i started opening up holes in the bricks by sliding them apart without burning myself to make more air holes... the more holes i open the higher the temperature got.... reached max 1200 f 4- same as 1 with burner positioned 2" outside of the Kiln. same max temp as 1 From what i am seeing and from the amount of carbon in the kiln after so few firings, i think i have too little oxygen in the kiln. It is my first attempt to make a kiln and from all the pictures and videos i saw i didnt see holes in an upward drift gas kiln, other than the peek holes, which i tried to make but it only increased the temperature upto 900 f. Do i have to make holes all over the kiln for oxygen? is the kiln design just wrong? is it too small ? i really cannot figure out what is the next step i should try, or just redo the whole thing with a different design. ANy help is very much appreciated. Here are some pictures of the project. Thanks in advance, Layth
  7. Since day 1 I wanted to do wood firing. I started with an electric kiln and although it is possible to do interesting things I'm still focused on ultimately doing Anagama. I cant truly test Cone 10 glazes in my electric and want to get as close to possible to that environment, which means a way to do reduction, neutral and oxidation. So I got a broke down Duncan kiln donated to me and the burner came in today so I'm super excited!!! Stripping it down tonight and getting the elements out then will figure out how to cut the burner port and the top opening. Then I have to find a 40 - 50 gallon tank. Gaaaaaaah excited! df
  8. I recently paid off my student loans and bought a house so I decided to dig my ceramic equipment out of storage where it has been for the last 15 years. While doing schooling and an internship in ceramics I bought a second hand little Amaco Gas Kiln Model # AG40 Serial# 192 . I loved this kiln because we did many raku firings with it at the pottery and I would love to repair it and fire it up again now that I have space. The issue is that I can not find any information on the kiln and I am also in the process of cleaning up and repairing the burner. I was wondering if any here heard of this kiln and maybe know where I could get parts, new or used, or even an instruction manual. Thanks! Al
  9. I have decided to take the leap and build my own studio. I want to put in a front load gas kiln and would like input. I searched the forums and unless I missed it, I couldn't find much on gas kilns, so forgive me if this topic has already been addressed. I have been looking at the Olympic DD12 and the Bailey Front Load Standard 18/12 and I have also talked to Seattle Pottery about their Crucible front load kiln. The Bailey is about twice the price of the Olympic and the Crucible. My plan is to have an attached shed on the studio in which to put the kiln. I live in Montana so it will need to be protected from the weather. I figured it would be better to decide on the kiln so I can know what size to make the shed - area and ceiling height. I would appreciate any thoughts, experiences and ideas. Thanks.
  10. Small porcelain cup with pink hue

    From the album Gas kiln 2013.09.05

    gas kiln, reduction , cone 10
  11. clay and porcelain tea cup

    From the album Gas kiln 2013.09.05

    gas kiln, reduction , cone 10
  12. Small porcelain bowl with a dot

    From the album Gas kiln 2013.09.05

    gas kiln, reduction , cone 10
  13. Small porcelain bowl

    From the album Gas kiln 2013.09.05

    gas kiln, reduction , cone 10
  14. I have found several pages that all repeat the same: OK, fine by me Lets say we have a 250 l kiln (9 cf). We are going to need 16000 x 9= 144000 BTU We know that 1 Kg of propane packs about 13.97 kWh or 47668 BTU So, 144000/47668= 3.02 Kg (6.65 lbs) of propane per firing to cone 10? (I am using weight and not the volume because volume can be anything if exact pressure and temperature are unknown) Q 1: How close is this to actual gas usage? About the downdraft kilns and actual stacking area. Q 2: Is it safe to say that 250 l total inside volume will give us only about 155 l of stack space? I am asking, because we like to make some firing cost calculations before we start taking bids for building a 250 l kiln... or do we actually need a 350+ l kiln Thank you.
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