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Found 8 results

  1. Hi Everyone, Looks like my old kiln-sitter Duncan DK1020-2 is in need of new elements (about 90% sure of this) and I am eager to replace them since, of course, I am on a deadline. I placed a call to Paragon already with a couple questions but it's the end of the day and i doubt I'll hear back til tomorrow...or later. I admit it's my first foray into kiln repair, but I am pretty handy and my boyfriend is bringing his multimeter over so i have faith between the two of us we can handle this; especially given all the videos and the manual information at hand. Here's my question: As I am going to be replacing all of the elements at this point are there other parts it is advisable to test and/or replace as well since I'm doing this? All the parts appear to be the original ones (from the 1970s/early 80s, yikes). Wondering if i should also plan to replace the power relays, infinite switch or anything else. Many thanks.
  2. Being a less-than-tall person, I bought an L&L 18" deep kiln - I couldn't reach the bottom of the 27â€ers. Kiln works great, tho I have to add degrees to the cone offset for 04 bisquing, and remove some from cone 6, ( according to my witness cones). Actually right now I’m using the cone 5 setting and that seems to get my 6 cone to the right spot. My e28s has 4 elements and 2 thermocouples, and this creates some challenges. I get even responses from my witness cones only if I fire with only 2 shelves. With 3 shelves in, the witness cones vary widely. I’ve tried every variation on shelf placement I can think of, including staggering and using 2 1/2 half shelves. The manufacturer says that you need 2 elements and 1 thermocouple per shelf, and I’m pretty sure I also read that the shelves should clear the elements. With my kiln , that means you can only have 2 shelves in, and when I follow these guidelines the kiln gods do favor me with matching witness cones. This has all turned out not to be a big problem for me anyway, because I haven’t had as much time as I’d hoped I would to be making stuff. Also running the kiln seems to cost me only about $10 a month for 3-4 firings. I expected the cost to be much higher. I'm making less at one time, but also getting more instant gratification, (instant being a relative term when applied to a slowly cooling kiln). Should I be less concerned about matching cones? I assume it's a matter of degree. It can be more than 1 cone. Also, I have been "lidding" the load with the 2 unused half shelves because I feel I should have them in there to increase the thermal mass, which is already 1/3 less than what the kiln could hold. Any thoughts on that? Thank you in advance for your advice and experience Irene in NJ
  3. I am noticing a slight increase in time to run a cone 6 glaze firing and my witness cones are starting show slightly less of a bend than previously so I think it's time to start planning an element replacement. I am at 180 total firings, 87 cone 6 slow glaze, 72 cone 04 slow Bisque and 21 cone 05 slow glaze transfer firings. I've never done this before sooooo how hard is it? Do I need to replace anything else while I am doing it? Like relays, pins, high temp connectors, etc? I have an Olympic Freedom 1823HE. I have found a repair man that will come down from the John C Campbell school and do it but I have no idea what price range I am looking at for the job. I'd also really REALLY like to learn to do it myself BUT don't want to mess up my kiln. I think knowing how to replace the elements in my kiln is vital to my growth as a potter, I like to understand how things work and go together, etc. Sooooo honestly speaking how hard is it and are there any tricks I should know going in? OR Should I just bite the bullet and let someone else do it for me? Thank you all once again for your help. T
  4. My L & L has been firing very slowly and stopping with an error message when glazing. I checked all my elements and they were glowing an dseemed fine. I changed all of my thermocouples because i bought the kiln used and they seemed a little old. I loaded the kiln and started firing and noticed that i have Two elements in a row rhat are hot firing at all. Im new to all this and my question is, could i have pulled a wire loose in my element wiring while i had the box open fixing thermocouples?
  5. Hi all I have recently purchased a Cone Art Model 1822 Kiln (manual with a cone sitter). I'm very excited to get going, but alas - I can't get the thing working! I followed the electrical supply through the system with a voltmeter; checking the kiln sitter plunger switch; the timer switch; and the infinite switch - all in both on and off positions. Everything looked in order ie. voltage detected when on, none detected when off. I also checked for power running into the elements - it's there, yet no heat is being generated!!!! (after 11/2 hours) (I don't understand!!!) The red operation lights, connected through the infinity switch, show power going to them, and also do not turn on (I figured this was because of a burnt out bulbs, but now, ???). I had to change the elements (came with the unit) because there was a break in one of them - I took pictures and feel confident I rewired properly (took pictures and understood it - plus - there's power going to it...) I'm so confused as to why this isn't working and would appreciate any feedback anyone can give me. Thanks! gay
  6. I thought my diy elements would simply lay in the groove and behave. Dream on! I guess I'll have to pin them in place. Well Skutt does it, so why not. The original elements in my Paragon snf24 didn't have pins when I removed them. I don't feel great about having them now. But it is what it is; it's never what it ain't! Ok to use element wire of same gauge to make pins or, in this case, staples? Huh? Huh? Are there any rules regarding pinning or stapling? I like the staple idea, 'cause two legs seem better than one. ja
  7. Hi all, I just finished stripping the old elements out of two kilns. One kiln is getting new elements, the other is going to get a gas burner. Anyway, what do y'all do with your old kiln elements. I've thought of incorporating them into a multimedia object, or making springy yard art, pitching them,etc. What are your thoughts - think of this as a fun exercise Lee
  8. Hey folks ! Hoping someone can help me out! I'm replacing an element in my kiln for the first time. Everything was going smoothly - I removed the old element and put in the new one but i can't for the life of me loosen the barrel connector (I think that's what it's called) from the electrical wire running from the switch. I need to loosen it to remove the old element wire still inside and to make the electric wire make contact with the element. I'll take a pic and attach it below. It's a barrel connector with a screw in it to keep it tight and I can't loosen it at all!! Is it safe to use a lubricant of some sort on the connector? If so, which brand? My supplier is already closed for the weekend so I can't go to them for help. I've gashed up my fingers from the screw driver and pliers slipping lol. Any help would be super appreciated. I have a massive show coming up and I'm falling behind. Thanks so much!!!
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