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Found 11 results

  1. Hi peps, Does anyone know if your can burn of decals I have a bowl on which the decal bubbled and it was also lost because of the colour. The glaze firing was to 1260 C for your information. Thanks in advance
  2. From the album Air Brushed Pieces

    One of my latest firing. Porcelain thrown bowl, altered. Decal added after glazing and then gold luster
  3. Hi folks. I've been using a Silhouette Cameo cutter to create vinyl decals I put on my bisque before dipping in glaze to create a negative space design. (it's ain't easy creating a signature look and standing out in an art town) It's challenging (sometimes flat crazy making) because if you pull the decals too soon, glaze runs into the area you want to keep clean and too late, it flakes and chunks come off with the decal and I end up doing a lot of clean up or touch up. Add to that my unnatural love of gooey, reactive, unpredictable and persnickety glazes and it can be a real PITA, especially when doing runs of 200+ pieces. My cutter just broke and I won't be able to afford a new one any time soon. Once I was done stressing out and having a mini meltdown, I decided to try to create something new, different and cooler. I was thinking about carving stamps of my more popular designs and then using crayons as wax resist (I have no love for liquid wax resist and a very complicated history with it) Crayons are crazy cheap at the dollar store and easy to control. Bonus, I can leave some small bits unwaxed to add shadow/more texture... I've only made one stamp, I carved into some craft plaster of paris advertised as “carvableâ€, then pushed wet clay into the carving and bisque fired to create a stamp. So here are my questions…. Has anyone ever used crayons as wax resist? And did they work well for you? What is your favorite carving material for making stamps? I've added a couple of photos of what I've been doing to provide a visual… Thanks in advance
  4. Godzilla Plate

    From the album Rogryphon's stuff

    I love Godzilla, so made a plate. Mayco stamp for city, water slide decals for Godzilla and planes.
  5. Witch party mug

    From the album Rogryphon's stuff

    Water slide decals from HP laser printer
  6. Alchemy mug

    From the album Rogryphon's stuff

    Love old images so did an Alchemy mug. Skull and various alchemal symbols, old science images on other side. Waterslide decals on HP printer.
  7. Decal floral large bead necklace

    From the album Jewels

  8. Elk skeleton Mug

    From the album Rogryphon's stuff

    Playing with decals to see what they can do. Fun finding weird images on the internet.
  9. Hi, Thank you for allowing me to join this forum. I have a background of fusing glass so, other than in school, I am pretty dumb when it comes to ceramics. I want to make a clock out of a Bopla plate. I know I could get stick on letters, (or some sort of permanent paint?) for the clock face. I think it would look much more professional if I could re-fire it with the clock face numbers. I have used fired on decals on fused glass before. Is it possible to re-fire commercial porcelain without any loss to the design. The decals I have fired onto glass fire at around 1000 degrees. I don't know temps for ceramic decals though. This is for a Christmas present. Thanks, Dave Kingman P.S. If this is possible, I would appreciate finding a source for ceramic decal numbers 1-12. The place I used before required an image file and was pretty expensive.
  10. I'm using a technique where I apply contact paper stencils to create designs on my bisque before dipping into my cone 4-6 glaze. I've had really awesome results with this. My only issue has been that when I go to peel them off, no matter how quickly I try, chunks of glaze pull off around the edges leaving me less sharp lines. I've been using a damp sponge to wipe the glaze off of the paper and dampen the edges, but I still end up doing a lot of time consuming detail work with a paint brush. I'm toying with the idea of wiping the glaze off of the decal then leaving it in place to burn off in the firing (well ventilated, of course) I don't mind if the tiny bit of ash leaves some pattern on the unglazed bisque, but don't want it messing up glazed pieces in the kiln. Has anyone tired this or had similar experience?
  11. Hi All, For the last few months I've been experimenting with decals. With my HP laser printer I've been printing my own iron-rich decals and getting results I'm really happy with (picture below). The process is pretty straightforward, and so long as the ^6 glaze I'm putting decals on top of doesn't change with the additional firing, the results are predictable and aesthetically where I want them to be. But I'm working in only one color. As mentioned in other decal-focused posts, a ceramic printer that can print full color decals costs a few grand. And while there are commercial services available for printing decals, I'm more of a DIY kind of guy. So I'd like to start screenprinting my own decals using gold overglaze, cobalt, etc, and I'm curious if anyone can help shed some light on this process. I have a background in screenprinting, so I'm very comfortable withe the physical steps of the process. What I'm wondering about are the following: - The decal paper needs to be submerged in water to get the backing paper to release. Is there a substance I should mix in with my overglaze/cobalt oxide wash to make it so the image wont wash off the paper? - Should I be spraying a fixer over the images instead of/in addition to mixing a fixing agent into my "ink"? - Should the decals be applied face-down? The iron decals can be applied right-side-up, but I have a suspicion that printing things backward and applying the paper with the "ink" in direct contact with the ware will be more effective. - Any ratios, recipes, tricks or tips will be appreciated. Thanks, Chris
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