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Found 10 results

  1. LogicalHue


    From the album: 2018 Family Portraits

    © meg perine 2018

  2. LogicalHue


    From the album: 2018 Family Portraits

    © meg perine 2018

  3. LogicalHue


    From the album: 2018 Family Portraits

    © meg perine 2018

  4. JanieEddings

    Help firing older kiln

    I was given an older paragon kiln with a set n fire. Its model lt-3k and I have no idea how to use it yet. I want to fire cone 6 stoneware and already have some greenware ready to fire and plenty of furniture. Any advice would be great!
  5. Hey gang! I'm curious if there is a way to achieve the look of MG2 over soldate 60 - that cool speckled look, at cone 6 in an electric kiln? I love the look and miss making it, and would love to recreate it at home if possible. Thanks!!
  6. BornonSunsetCeramics

    Bloaty Mc-Bloatface

    Hello lovely ceramics people! I've been having some bloat issues with one particular clay body. It's a buff cone 5/6. It's made by the ceramics store I use here in southern cal. Here's the scoop: When fired previously up to cone 5, there was zero bloat but I wasn't too pleased with my glaze results (Amaco's potter's choice - not in attached photo) so I fired up to cone 6, and first had the bloat. I called my clay shop and spoke to their clay-kiln guy (lovely and helpful) and he gave me his custom bisque program that he said would help with specifically with inorganic burnouts (he said something about iron?) that can happen with darker clays. Again, this is a buff, not something as dark as Black Mt. but he said this was the issue. Then I fired the next batch using the nifty bisque program to cone 6 and soaked for 10 minutes. The only modification I made was to do 8 hours in the candling phase instead of 12 as written, because I know my pieces are bone dry before I load my kiln. I was very hopeful for this next batch until... bloat again! We spoke today and he still believes the iron is the issue, but I'm unsure of what to do next. Do you think this clay isn't stable at cone 6? I know there isn't technically a huge difference in temp between cone 5 and 6 but I'm tempted to take some old bisque pieces that I have stored away and test them at cone 5. That brings us back to the issue of glaze maturation and so I'd like to let the pieces soak at cone 5 -- how long do you think is adequate? Could cone 5 and a long soak be the solution? I adore throwing this clay body, and I really feel like my throwing skills have improved due in part to the nature of this clay, so I'm hoping that I can figure this out and keep using it... plus I have at least 200 lbs of it sitting on a shelf in my garage that I'd hate to not use. I've attached one of my bloated pieces and the bisque program I used during this process. Please excuse my pencil scribble on the firing program... I was trying to figure out total firing time so I could drop the lid at the appropriate time. **my matte white glaze also made by my local store appears underfired? over fired? So many issues for this newbie. If you're still reading this... thank you! I truly appreciate the wisdom of this group! cheers, alli
  7. jothamhung

    Cress Fx27P Help

    Hey everyone! I recently purchased a used Cress FX27P Electric Kiln, and after bisque firing the first time with the automatic kiln sitter, I noticed that the thumbwheel does not move, and appears to have some sort of malfunction. I figured out a way to bisque firing while moving the thumbwheel manually, but I haven't tried glaze firing yet. Anybody owns this kiln or a similar version of this kiln and can help with how I can glaze fire (cone 6) by moving the thumbwheel myself? For everyone that doesn't know what the purpose of the thumbwheel is, there are numbers 0 to 10 on it, and it moves gradually by itself during a firing. 0 being no power to the elements, and 10 being maximum power to the elements. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks.
  8. Hello! Could anyone please give me hints on where to go next best to figure out where the following problem comes from? Here are three examples of first tests made by me and my friend with glazes we found in recepy books and online, all for cone 6. We are using an electric kiln at one workshop where we can only program a ramp with three steps and so we tried the following firing programme, while skipping the step 1 and the last one (so we had no hold on cooling and just had the kiln switch off after the 15min hold on the top temperature). here the original firing programme: http://digitalfire.com/4sight/firingschedule/plainsman_cone_6_electric_standard_firing_schedule_114.html I suspect we need a slower cooling. We can program the kiln to cool down with a constant temperature, but we can't add any hold into the programme. Any idea what would be a good temperature then? We now also try to apply some of the glazes thinner. Several texts I have read on the troubleshooting issues mention to lengthen the firing programme, but give no specifics about which step and how much to lengthen. Some say to use higher temperature, but doesn't give a hint in terms of how much higher etc. Any advices would be highly appreciated! Best wishes, Martin
  9. I am on the 15th hour of a cone six glaze firing, Yes, hour 15 and I am getting nervous. I usually fire on a slow cycle with my cress Firemate but it usually takes about 11or 12 hours . The kiln sitter shut off an hour ago but the witness cones that I could view had not started to bend so I continued to fire. The cones are just starting to bend but I am concerned about what is happening on the shelves I cannot see. The kiln is smaller and usually fires even .I think I must be ready for new elements. I have a lot of glaze tests in this load and hate to waste all the time I have put in this far. Any advice ? Should stop the firing even if the visable witness cones are not fully bent?

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