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    • Jennifer Harnetty

      Moderators needed!   12/08/2017

      Ceramic Arts Network is looking for two new forum moderators for the Clay and Glaze Chemistry and Equipment Use and Repair sections of the Ceramic Arts Network Community Forum. We are looking for somebody who is an active participant (i.e. somebody who participates on a daily basis, or near daily) on the forum. Moderators must be willing to monitor the forum on a daily basis to remove spam, make sure members are adhering to the Forum Terms of Use, and make sure posts are in the appropriate categories. In addition to moderating their primary sections, Moderators must work as a team with other moderators to monitor the areas of the forum that do not have dedicated moderators (Educational Approaches and Resources, Aesthetic Approaches and Philosophy, etc.). Moderators must have a solid understanding of the area of the forum they are going to moderate (i.e. the Clay and Glaze Chemistry moderator must be somebody who mixes, tests, and has a decent understanding of materials). Moderators must be diplomatic communicators, be receptive to others’ ideas, and be able to see things from multiple perspectives. This is a volunteer position that comes with an honorary annual ICAN Gold membership. If you are interested, please send an email outlining your experience and qualifications to jharnetty@ceramics.org.

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Found 14 results

  1. As a newcomer to firing my own work can anyone explain cone tempretures? I have an electric kiln with a digital temperature control so i don't use cones. So much advice refers to firing to cone 06 or 04... I've tried researching this but can't find a definitive answer. If kilns have advanced to accurate digital control why do i need cones and why can't firing advice refer to given tempretures? Any advice will be greatly received.
  2. Hey everyone! I'm in the process of creating a home studio, and I thought it would be a great idea to start making my own glazes. What are some good resources, magazines, or books that have helped you guys when it comes to introductory to advanced glaze making? Also, are there any tips or suggestions when I'm starting out! Thank you so much and any input would be greatly appreciated.
  3. I fired my kiln last night same as I have been for the last 2+ years to cone 03 usually takes about 7.26 hours, half way through I went to check the kiln and the orton sentry xpress control board displayed CPLT @ 4.11 it was still at 1400 degrees F so I waited til this morning to open it and 4 shelves of beads and pendants were completely melted i mean gone! a giant blob of glass 4 shelves deep I dont understand what happened, I fired the same as always, the control bored should have gave me an error message if it got too hot, my question is could my work have melted like this not because it got too hot but because it reached temperature twice as fast as normal?? a few months back i woke up to a kiln load of glazed ware that didnt finish fring the display read HTDE Heat temperature deviation kiln shut off because relay got stuck or something, i never figured it out i refired and watched the kiln and it worked without issue until today, and one more thing to add is that if the relay was stuck bridged than i would have had to physically shut off the kiln would have still been hot but the kiln read Completed after just 4 hours also the control bored would give an error if it overheated, I cant let this happen again, paragon wants to send replacement parts but i want to know what the problem even is, they said replace the control bored and the relay but why? which is it and what happened, did my kiln furniture and jewelry all melt because it fired too fast or did my kiln get too hot and somehow bypass showing an error message? and once again as far as it appears kiln seems to be working again thanks for any help! P.s. I attached images to see what happened to my high fire kiln shelves when fired to cone 03 in 4 hours and 11min
  4. Hi I have recently purchased a Skutt 1027 Specifications: Model: KS-1027 Volts: 208 Amps: 48 PH: 1 Is it possible to upgrade it to get up to cone 10?
  5. I just got a little Firecraft P-1317 . There is no max temp anywhere on it and no documentation (only for the PerfectFire controller). It's a 240V, 20Amp, 17.5"W x 13.5"H. I have looked everywhere on the net for info. Does anyone here have an idea of what this kiln is rated for? I generally work ^6 stoneware and would like to use it for that. Any and all thoughts are greatly appreciated!
  6. Cress Fx27P Help

    Hey everyone! I recently purchased a used Cress FX27P Electric Kiln, and after bisque firing the first time with the automatic kiln sitter, I noticed that the thumbwheel does not move, and appears to have some sort of malfunction. I figured out a way to bisque firing while moving the thumbwheel manually, but I haven't tried glaze firing yet. Anybody owns this kiln or a similar version of this kiln and can help with how I can glaze fire (cone 6) by moving the thumbwheel myself? For everyone that doesn't know what the purpose of the thumbwheel is, there are numbers 0 to 10 on it, and it moves gradually by itself during a firing. 0 being no power to the elements, and 10 being maximum power to the elements. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks.
  7. Hello! New user here, I am pretty new to ceramics and just inherited my first kiln! My grandmother passed down a Duncan EA-092 kiln to me, and through internet searches and reading the manual I can not find what its maximum cone temperature is! I read somewhere that someone fired it at 019 (1220 degrees F)....which is a bit disappointing as I wanted to be able to fire at at least cone 5 for the typical clays and glazes I am used to using. I have only been using glazes and kilns through classes, so I have not had much hands on application for firing my own ceramics. My questions are, what is the EA-092 max cone firing. And if it does only fire to 019 what are my options for clays and glazes? Thank you!
  8. I thought I would start a new subject line rather than continuing to hijack the other one. I am trying to learn how to do some basic fine tuning of my glaze firing. I am going to start by trying to correct a pinhole issue I am having with one of my more popular glazes. I think the problem is that the temperature is dropping too quickly once reached and "freezing" the glaze before it has time to smooth out and heal over. I have a Bartlett V6-CF controller on my Olympic Kiln and I glaze fire to cone 6. With help from people over on the other subject of firing schedules (thank you!) I read through the Bartlett manual again. I read it when I first got it but didn't understand most of what I was reading so bad me for not reading it again. It seemed easiest to simply cut and paste the info from the Bartlett Manual so I don't get it wrong. This is their firing schedule for cone 6: Then I found this towards the back of the manual concerning a pre programmed vary fire program called User 6. They have something called a 16-S (16 segment program) under the menu section on the controller. I played around with the controller and was able to turn on this special, 16-S, user 6 cool down program. I do have a question concerning their Important Notes section. I am using the preprogrammed slow glaze cone fire program and the preprogrammed user 6 slow cool program. I don't see anywhere to do the segment adjustment they are saying to do. What am I not getting? Once I get the programming figured out my firing schedule should look like this if I am understanding it correctly: Slow Glaze Cone 6, 2232F 150 degrees per hour to 250 degrees 400 degrees per hour to 1982 degrees 120 degrees per hour to 2232 degrees Add on the Vary-fire User 6 Program (user 6 cone 6 cool down) Temperature starts at 2232 degrees F then cools at its natural rate to 1900 degrees F Then cools at 150 degrees F until it reaches 1500 degrees F at which point it then cools at its natural rate the rest of the way down to kiln opening temperature. Am I getting this right? Will adding this onto my slow glaze schedule help reduce pinholes? T
  9. So... I've just fired my Nabertherm electric kiln (pre-loved) for the first time, for a bisque firing. I put two cone packs in - one on the bottom shelf, one near the top, with 04, 05, 06 large cones. The program was 100oC per hour to 600oC then 250oC per hour to 1000oC. I don't regularly use cones, but thought it was a good opportunity to see what the new kiln did and how the bisque firing temperature related to the Orton Cones. I've attached a photo of one of the cones packs - there was very little difference in them. Does this look as you'd expect? I'm surprised that there's such a big difference between the 06 - completely down and the 05 which is barely bent. I thought the differences between the three would be more even. Is it telling me that this was a cone 5 1/2 firing or something else? Don't know why the photo has flipped! I edited one and flipped it myself and that one still imported upside down !
  10. Bubbles!

    Hey everybody, been doing some testing and went through my first gas firing. (click my sig link if you are interested in the firing) I thought it was a disaster but others tell me not so much. Expectations will absolutely RUIN your happiness. Anyways, I have 2 glazes that I really kinda dig. The first glaze is a leach white which is nice and I'm still doing some tuning on that. Below is an example of the leach 4-3-2-1 glaze that went through the gas firing with too much reduction and made it to cone 9. I put a sprinkling of FE203 Red Iron Oxide and a sprinkling of Rutile as well just to see what each would do. The second glaze is what I'm curious about. It's Malloy Clear. Its not really clear, its opacity is created by billions of bubbles trapped in the glaze which is actually quite cool. It gives it a warmer color and I'm quite smitten. Being that there are bubbles in this, and they do not affect the surface of the piece would these be in any way compromised in strength / durabiltiy / foodsafenes etc?
  11. Clay With Bite!

    Hey guys and gals. I'm working on a white locally produced commercial claybody which is my favorite at the moment. I have 200 lbs of it to work through. It is only very lightly grogged. I am going to be doing some more testing with my own locally sourced lake clay but in the meantime I want to give this clay some more bite to it. Rather than grog, can I use silica sand or regular stream sand or something? I like the Korean's texture of the Maksabal which has just enough texture because they are using indigenous clay which is filled with impurities and is sieved leaving behind some of the bigger textured bits. Oh forgot to add that I am firing to cone 6 in oxidation.
  12. What is the highest cone temp you have reached in your Raku kiln- ill be using Propane for the fuel source.
  13. Is there any way to salvage a glazed piece where a witness cone melted on it!
  14. Firing Issue

    Took my kiln out of 17 year storage. Tried to fire to cone 04. Set timer to 10 hours and placed cone in kiln sitter and knob to " ceramics". It cut off at 10 hours but plate didn't drop on cone. I did have to replace the knob, as it was missing, yet it isn't quite the same as before and clicks for high fire, ceramics and overglaze are not where the wording is. I assumed the second click would be the " ceramics". What is your suggestions or knowledge on how to fix this issue with firing and/or should I buy the complete switch? Or would you think the switch is an issue? All coils are working. Or buy a news kiln? Could I turn it back on for more hours and see if it will reach the cone temp or start over? Thank you in advance. I I have a Duncan Teacher Plus
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