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Found 11 results

  1. I need to find the best All-In-One clay for cone 5, great for both hand building and wheel throwing I know. That's a tall order. But I can dream. I have a pug mill and don't want 2 bodies. Problem: I have too many problems with my gas kiln for cone 06 anymore. I'm DONE. I am moving to cone 5. Criteria / Factors: I'm in Southern California I teach 180 high school students grades 9-12, all levels of art skills, so it has to take punishment Not too sandy on the wheel, not too smooth or squishy for hand building Not too dense so it is so top-heavy when trimming I'm willing to pug the new clay to soften it for throwing, if it is stiff and great for hand building, or visa versa Doesn't stain clothes or the tables, rolling pins, or make a mess everywhere Is not pure white (students can't see where they missed glazing spots when using light color glazes - painting) Good leather hard, doesn't soften up too easily when re-wetting to score things together Doesn't take every indentation to the surface of pieces, temperamentalD Centers on the wheel fairly easily, especially for teen girls with tiny hands Can take a good amount of water from beginners Pulling walls, it is strong, doesn't warp or sag easily Won't dry out too quickly in hands while hand building Doesn't bend or warp easily when removing from the wheel Not so soft that it caves when cutting and sliding off the wheel Doesn't make teens hate the class because it stains clothes or gets everywhere and of course, takes glazes well and can handle a little fluctuation in gas environments Cone 5 clays I've Tried: Laguna - Dover White: Nice clay, but pure white. easy to center, but A little soft when hand building Laguna - Plain (Buff): Nice light tan color, easy center and to rehydrate if repairing, but a bit too squishy and shows every dent Laguna - Moroccan Sand: I love this clay, doesn't leave residue - color, but a bit dense to center. It is really dark grayish brown, if they only could lighten it Laguna - Buff with Sand: Nice tan color, but WAY too sandy for students on the wheel Laguna - Greystone: Too dense and top heavy for small pieces, hard to center, but really takes a beating with water, warps when thin due to density of surrounding clay Laguna - Speckled Buff: A bit dark in color, has iron so it gets read everywhere, could stain (think girls with pure white vans) Laguna - LB-6: hmmm, can't remember, but nixed it very soon after Laguna - Sante Fe: OMG - red EVERYWHERE, like a crime scene Aardvark Clay - SBF - Too dark tan - a bit sticky for students Aardvark Clay -Arctic White: Too white Opinions???? Go!!!
  2. Hey all - I recently bought Laguna speckled buff cone 5 clay and have been really enjoying it! As I'm preparing to glaze, however, I realized my whole stock of glazes are cone 6. Curious to hear your perspectives on this - have you tried it? Any tips or tricks to help make sure I don't ruin all the lovely objects I've made?
  3. HELP! I screwed up my bisque firing and fired at cone 5 instead of 05. Major button pushing error. Can I still glaze my pieces and fire them at cone 5 again? Any suggestions of how to make the glaze stick to the bisque since it is so no porous? Thanks for any help.
  4. I just purchased five containers of Amaco Potters Choice cone 5-6 glazes. I just did a firing at cone 5 with the glazes and none of them vitrified. I also fired a few small pieces of bisque ware with the glazed items and I think that they turned out fine, although they appear more pink than what I have seen before. The glazed pieces look like they haven't been fired at all. I am trying to figure out what I did wrong, or what my kiln did wrong. I cannot imagine that 5 separate containers of Amaco glazes that were made at separate times would be at fault. Here are some details: - I cracked the kiln an inch from the beginning of the firing to the end. I did this because 2 of the small pieces I was bisquing were not bone dry yet and I thought that this could help air out any leftover moisture. The pieces were not completely moist. These were not the pieces I glazed. - The whole firing from it's peak to cooling was about 12-15 hours. - I have a Paragon xpress 1193 which I purchased in January of 2015. I have fired it to cone 5 before but never beyond that. I do not run my kiln frequently, I usually fire to cone 05 for low fire items. - As far as I know, the glazes were not shipped to the store frozen. -The items that were glazed were bisqued to cone 5. What do you think is the culprit? Do you think that my kiln needs to be repaired possibly? Suggestions?
  5. Now that I have my own studio and electric kiln, I'm moving from cone 10 clays to cone 5. This new world of mid-range clays, glazes, and firing is like starting all over again. I'm uncertain about whether cone 5/6 ceramics are correctly referred to as stoneware. Pretty sure that the term "earthenware" refers to low-fire ceramics, but I await the wisdom of those who know better about these things. :-)
  6. GiselleNo5

    Detail of Poppy Bowl

    From the album: Pottery 2016

    Cone 5 B-Mix, carved and glazed in Stoned Denim from Mayco.

    © Giselle Massey 2016 all rights reserved

  7. Hi, I'm looking for a used kiln. Hopefully a Skutt or an L&L. I'm looking for a programmable one that will fire to cone 10, although I plan to fire to cone 5. (It's nice to have the option.) My question is, what should I look for when I actually get to see one in person? What am I looking for concerning the elements or control panels? Is there a way to test it without doing a full firing? Thanks!
  8. JoLinDesigns

    Crazing Issue

    Hello all!! I am having an issue with my small tiles crazing. Very fine lines are showing up after a month. I am using b mix clay to ^06 first then paint/glaze then firing to ^5. I have made over 100 triangular tiles. Can I glaze them again with clear glaze and fire to a low fire? Or are these trash!!!! Thanks!!! The crazing is actually pretty so I don't have a problem with it as far as visuals. My concern more so is the moisture issue. Linda
  9. I am making a rather large, slightly curved bullnose. I will need to glaze one end of it. Since it is large (12 "x10") I fire resting on the shelf. But I'll need to glaze one long end of it. What is the best way to support this so not to glaze it to the kiln shelf? Thanks. Linda
  10. Here's my question: Is it possible or recommended to aluminum wrap saggar fire in an electric kiln ware that has been partially glaze fired to cone 5 or 6? Will the vitrified clay accept the carbon from the smoke? My goal is to have the inside of my ware glazed but have exterior raw and charred looking. Any other suggestions are extremely welcome. Thank you!
  11. (Warning this is me thinking out loud......again) No. 5 Ball Clay 50.00 kg Silica 20.00 kg Feldspar 30.00 kg I've see this recipe in different places for laguna cone 10 b mix. I thought these formula were secret and very proprietary. I'm taking slightly educated guesses at re formulating for cone 5 and wood firing. Any help is appreciated. (I'd fear the ceramic chemistry class.....) Cone 5 b mix guess Wild guess 50 #5 20. Silica 36. Feldspar Total 106 Ok basic knowledge says to increase feldspar to lower it to cone 5 b mix? (Which I'm told is really a cone 6 clay). What changes do you suggest to get this recipe down to cone 5? woodfired B mix guesstimation From what I've gleaned from the Internet helmer porcelain is king of flashing. I'm thinking replace a percentage of om4 with helmer porcelain and or combo of helmer epk. The porcelain addition will raise the maturity alone. Then slightly increasing feldspar to melt get the porcelain to mature. I'm thinking using the B mix ingredients as a base with addition of porcelain 30Helmer/epk 20 #5 20 silica 35 feldspar Total 105 Maybe + 3 percent bentonite or vee gum if necessary for plasticity
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