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Found 101 results

  1. Hello all! My partner and I want to slip cast cups, I have a bit of an idea when it comes to ceramics (thanks mum) but have some questions :) We have found a clay that already has a speckle in it - can we use it to make slip for casting? If the clay cannot be made into slip - is there something we could add to plain slip to make a speckled look (that's food safe)? Can we add pigment to clay/slip that already has a speckle? Would this interfere with the chemistry? I know the other option is to use glaze to achieve a speckled look but we would prefer that it came from the clay. (the speckled glaze I have used in the past is glossy and we want a matte finish) I've attached a picture of the look we want to achieve with slip casting - I hope this helps Thanks everyone xx
  2. I am working on figurative ceramic sculptures and would like to bisque them (08) since they are very fragile. Then I want to coat them so the effect is multiple thick layers of colored slips/engobe? I am using stoneware b clay with grog. I love the look that artists like Michele Gregor has, Debra Fritt....I assume that potters can help me understand the chemistry and what I CAN use to get this look. As I read, I am learning that I can color engobes with mason stain BUT I need to make sure the engobe recipe is right so that it will bond with the bisqued clay body? I have never made slip or engobe before. Yes, I'm a newb.
  3. glazenerd

    Slip- Engobe Study

    I have concluded my studies on stoneware and porcelain: time to move on to a new topic. I have been reading some background studies done in the 40s, thru 70,s. on slip chemistry. I am interested in hearing experiences, thoughts, opinions, links to articles, abstracts, etc. This is an open topic, so as long as your post has the word "clay" in it: ramble on. Finite details welcomed. I have been reading studies from W.G. Lawrence and A.F. Norton; both Alfred PhD's on this topic. While viscosity was covered, there was much more emphasis placed on the water film, PH levels, temperature, and particle stacking. It was specifically noted that "particle stacking" is an entirely different principle than particle distribution. Was or is any of these principles taught, or still covered today? Any potter familiar with "terra sig" has delved into PH and particle stacking. Does anyone have links about the effects of temperature on ionic charges? Tom i realize there are many links to collidal chemistry, PH dependent charges, etc: but interested in those specifically related to pottery use.
  4. Does anyone have any input on why I’m getting intermittent peeling slip on my cone 1 red earthenware pots? It happens on a handful of pots from each firing. Typically, it’s on the edges of a pot (mostly near the rim). I’ve tried reformulating my slip recipe and am now using deflocculated slip (Martina Lantin’s recipe). My colors are from the base recipe with the addition of mason stains. I use Laguna red earthenware clay and fire to cone 1. I hoped the deflocculated slip would solve the problem since the water content is so low, but it hasn’t. I’m ready to give up! It’s so frustrating. I’d greatly appreciate advice on this. See the attached photo.
  5. Cline Campbell Pottery

    piping slip

    I'm working on a trompe l'oeil porcelain wedding cake. The clay is Laguna cone 10 and has their added plasticizer. Porcelain doesn't behave like sugar and shortening, of course, and sometimes crumbles when I try to extrude elements. Can I add some sugar based material like corn syrup or regular sugar or maybe something like gelatin or agar agar to make the clay stick together better? The additive or any mold that grows on it will burn out, but could it cause problems with drying or pitted surfaces? I don't plan to reclaim any scraps. Cynthia
  6. Hi, Would it work to use a decorating slip on greenware , bisque fire it and then decorate with underglazes before clear glazing and firing? I seem to remember someone telling me that the colour of the slip would mix with the underglaze but I don't know if firing in-between would maybe help with that? The reason I'd like to do this is for the slip to be the background colour, as I've found it tends to be less patchy than underglaze for larger areas. And for the underglaze to be the design detail on top. Is that a sensible way to do it or is there a better way to achieve something like that? I'm fairly new to decorating - any advice appreciated! Thanks :)
  7. Dear all This is my first post here, having been a lurking reader for a while. I would like to suspend some coarse particulates in a porcelain slip. I am intrigued by the coarse feldspar inclusions in some Japanese wood fired pottery. I have tried adding coarse inclusions in a porcelain body, which fired well but the large chunks got in the way of my preferred style of handbuilding and surforming the surface. I now want to try to add these particulates in a porcelain slip that I can apply to my pots by dipping. Does anyone have any tricks on how to suspend larger particulates in a clay slip, eg grog or coarse inclusions? Do grogged slips exist? I was thinking that perhaps adding bentonite could help due to its thixotropy, but I am not sure. Any help from this very helpful forum in my self-learning endeavors would be much appreciated Best Joris The Netherlands
  8. I am using underglaze to create designs on newsprint underneath slip to form decals to apply to greenware. I need advice on how to avoid streaking underglaze.
  9. mansie131

    Iron Oxide Slip

    Hi, i'm having trouble with iron oxide slip applied at the greenware stage. i've noticed that a thin layer gives varied colours and a thick layer gives either black or nothing- does it burn off? (i use a transparent glaze over this) additionally, a lot of the colour washes out on cleaning after bisque. what's going wrong and how can i stablize the slip to give me a solid black? i use stoneware fired to cone 09 bisque and cone 6 glaze. thanks!
  10. Kristy

    colored slips

    Hey All! I'm new here and very new to throwing clay (6 months in) but have come to LOVE using colored slip on greenware and doing sgraffito. Now, please excuse my novice questions but I've been looking online for recipes for different colored slips. My pottery mentor told me to avoid buying stains as they are way too overpriced and to make my own colored slips with different chemicals. I found a black slip recipe easily but can't find a purple one or pink or yellow or green...even blue. Are there such recipes? I do love vibrant colors so this may be something that doesn't exist. Please share what you know about coloring slips without stains. Thanks! Kristy
  11. Hello, I am new here and also just taken over a small pottery studio with limited experience. I have done pottery as a hobby and now in at the deep end, which is fun but also daunting and expensive! I have looked online for the best and cheapest way to make underglazes for kids to use on greenware for one-off groups. (also considering just keeping it un-glazed and send off bisqued to paint at home?!) I made some stained glaze powder/ ball clay concoctions but were very weak in colour and too thick. Can someone please advise on the cheapest way to make underglazes? I have seen other potters have jars of it in kids classes in the past... Does mixing it with ball clay always dull down the colour and what ratio is best? Using just water is too runny. Advice greatly appreciated. Thanks
  12. Meganthwaites

    How do I make black slip?

    I have some white stoneware slip that I bought from my clay supplier, I just want to know if I can add black iron oxide to it to get a black fired clay, and if I can do that then how much oxide do I need to add to get it really black?
  13. I have a bucket of old porcelain casting slip that I made a couple of years ago, and I'm wondering if I can reconstitute it. It's pretty chunky, it was originally deflocculated with Darvan 811. Can I get it back to a proper consistency for casting? Should I add more Darvan? Also, does Darvan expire?
  14. Hi everyone, I am experimenting with sponges, submerged in slurry/ slip. I have seen a view examples that I am trying to replicate. I have done a view test using natural sponges. I do not want to use any artificial sponge due to unhealthy fumes that might occur wile firing. However, the results so far did not really satisfy me. The remaining structure of the sponge looked interesting but it was very brittle and fell apart easily. I fired it at cone 05. I am wondering if anyone has some experience on that subject and a tip what I could do differently? And do you have any recommendation for natural spongy materials that I could use, alternatively to a sponge? Thank you so much for any advice , best wishes, Seb
  15. Hello everyone, I am wondering if anybody can give me an advice on deflocculation? I am trying to adjust the viscosity of one gallon slip "Cone 06 Casting Slip - White" from a ca 50 seconds runtime, to ca 30 seconds. I have used dispersal "Darvan 7" in small increments and I am not adding water! For some reason, the slip does not seem to change significantly. Could there be an issue that I am not aware of? About how much would I roughly need to add to a gallon to get the running time down about 20 seconds under normal circumstances? Any advice would be so much appreciated! Thanks everyone, Seb
  16. sheppard.lin

    Flashing Slips

    Hello all, I'm participating in my first wood firing, and I have been doing some reading about using flashing slips. Some say they are applied thinly over bisque wear, others seem to apply before the bisque. Anyone have some experience with these methods? Photos would be greatly appreciated as well! I'm also interested in trying to spray some slips. Thanks!
  17. Apologies for the stupid question - I'm very very new to this Can I use slip at the greenware stage instead of glaze for drinking cups/mugs, or will they leak? The reason I'm asking is that I want my mugs to have a very thin matte finish. Maybe there is a better way to achieve that? Thank you and I'm sorry if the question is too stupid. Nili
  18. Hi everyone I am the tech at a small studio and introduced a Zakin clear (cone6) to them as a new clear glaze. They had been using Ron Meyers recipe and wanted something they could dip. It seem to be working just fine until a studio member put it over a slip colored with Raven Black mason stain. It changed from black to a rusty chocolate brown. Has anyone else run into this issue? Any advice or ideas would be great. Thanks! Slip recipe: Raven Black mason stain porcelain sodium sicate soda ash Zakin clear: Silica 18 kona F4 40 wollastonite 10 Gerstley borate 16 OM4 12 Zinc 4
  19. I've got a bone dry bowl. Arctic white stoneware. It has thin walls and has been sitting for about a month. I also have a 'raven black' slip (description below). Is it possible for me to paint the pot with the slip, then paint patterns with shellac and wipe the black slip away, revealing the clay underneath? I'm unsure if the bowl will take the slip and whether it's possible to wipe the excess away, so I'm left with a black pattern. Ideas: These decorating slips, are suitable for use on both Earthernware and Stoneware bodies. When manufacturing our slips we believe in using high percentages of stain to give strong, vivid colours throughout the range. The slip can be applied to leather hard clay with brushes, sponges or slip trailers. After biscuit firing the pots should be glazed with a suitable transparent glaze which will further enhance the vibrant colours. Our sample is fired to 1060degC.The colours darken the higher you fire. Wide firing range - 1000-1300°C" Is it possible for me to paint the pot with the slip, then paint patterns with shellac and wipe the black slip
  20. I'm looking for any advice on properly maintaining a pouring table and the slip in it. Any advice is welcomed! Thank you in advance.
  21. Hi all! The company we work with that formulates our slip is having difficulties achieving the necessary properties for casting. The issues are due to the fact that they are taking a plastic throwing body, and are trying to convert it into a casting slip. Due to the fact that we have little control of that formulation, I do not know the exact recipe for the slip. We are just curious how difficult it is to create a Mid-Range Red Casting Slip that is properly flocculated, and casts evenly with no issues. After firing, the color we are trying to achieve is a Red-Orange, preferably something that withstands thermal shock since we are creating drinking vessels. Does anyone have any recipes, or reasons why a high-iron casting slip acts weird? Thank you all for your time!
  22. Hello, I am fairly new to slip casting (about 9 months), and have been trying to learn as much possible through books and videos. I haven't delved into making my own slip yet, instead I have been using Dover Slip from Miller (Laguna). It is a Cone 6 White Stoneware. I am having some issues with the slip: 1) A film forms on top the slip after sitting in the mold for about 10 minutes. 2) When I do the hand dip test no webbing is forming at all. 3) I believe the Specific Gravity is 1.8 (which should be right) I measured out 100ml and it weighs 180 grams. 4) It is pretty thick, pours out of the mold poorly leaving behind some gunk on the rim of the mold (makes for an uneven lip of my tableware) 5) It doesn't pull from the mold well, sometimes even 2 hours later I still can't get a simple cup out. Just for some addition information the room I am casting in lately has been around 85-95 degrees F, with pretty high humidity. What I am trying to figure out is if I need to add more deflocculant or if the slip has come over deflocculated from the factory, or perhaps I need to add more water. Thanks for the input. -Matt
  23. Does the slip used in this way have a special recipe? At what stage is this usually applied?
  24. HI, I have some slightly pink clay with (iron?) rocks which generally crush up in the mixing process. I am using it to low fire 30cm flat +-5mm tiles in a sawdust firing without bisquing first. Firstly, how fine do these particles need to be? Can I get away with a 5mm mesh or will sediment this big blow up piece in firing? (given that I am only firing low and it is not functional ware?) or do I really need to get all the lumps out?? Secondly - I found a page that recommends about 1.85 specific gravity for slip casting. Any thoughts? Thirdly, does anyone have tios or useful videos of how to keep temp rising fairly slowly to reduce thermal shock. I have ref. bricks that I am making a rectangle with and using a piece of reo. bar to hold tiles vertically off base so they don't fall and break. Doesn;t matter if some break as I can put those on the base of this conceptual installation piece. Making +- 300 tiles. Fourthly - to defloc or not?? I have sodium silicate - am pouring a 1.5 sq metre area and then cutting up tiles... Yes, I am on a steep learning curve here! Assistance gratefully received. Cheers, Fiona
  25. Hey guys, Quick question I can't seam to find much information on. I'm slipcasting a shape from a two piece mould and it leaves a seam down the side of my piece. I sand it as greenware then again as bisque before stoneware firing and wondering if seams are just inevitable. It could possibly be a combination of protruding just enough to be visible but also a discoloration effect. I have experimented a little but just wondering if you guys find that seams are just unavoidable or are usually very easy to get rid of. I'm possibly not doing enough to remove them. I'm not glazing the seamed area. Thanks.
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