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Found 16 results

  1. L&l Vs Skutt

    I am looking into buying a new kiln and have narrowed it down to two models that can work for my purposes, The Easy-Fire 23s by L&L or the Skutt KM1018. Both are the same price with the accompanying furniture kits. Both would be supplied with their standard model controllers. Dyna-trol vs Kilnmaster. I have a 60amp breaker and my electrician brother is wiring a new outlet for me (the old kiln was hardwired). At first I thought the L&L was a shoe-in because of the element holders but now I see that Skutt has their own rebuttal to this claiming that the heat distribution in their kilns is better because it isn't limited by the kiln element holders https://skutt.com/features/pdf/L%20_L%20response.pdf. I really am not sure what to think. I realize that some of it is simply subjective but not being able to actually experience these models first-hand I am at the mercy of the oh-so-fickle internet. Are there more linear feet of coils in a Skutt? Are the element holders of an L&L a help or a hinderance? are there other glaring differences I should know about? I would appreciate any insights potters here may have regarding these two models, especially those who have experienced both manufacturers' (pref recent) products. Thank you.
  2. Propping Kiln Lid

    When I am firing my electric kiln, I start with the lid propped open about 2 inches and the top peephole out. Then at around 1000 degrees F I shut the lid. The top peephole is open the whole time. I understand that the lid needs to be propped to allow moisture and gasses to escape in the early stages of firing. My questions are: 1) is 1000F an appropriate temp to close the lid? 2) Is it necessary to prop the lid on a ^6 glaze firing as well as the bisque, or only during the bisque (^06) I have been firing this way for a couple years and the pots always come out well. However the lid has badly cracked on both the inside and outside, necessitating repair with kiln cement. I have a large electric Skutt Kiln (I think it's the 1227). Even with my repair, it is all fractured and occasionally falls onto the pots below. The metal handle is also badly rusted and corroded, an issue I didn't notice when I bought this kiln used a couple years ago. I notice when I close the lid on an 1000F kiln it makes a soft settling crackling noise. I am curious if the cracking lid is from thermal shock when it goes from hot room temp to 1000F. Because of this, i wonder if it's better not to close it so late (and hot) in the firing. Perhaps it's just time for an envirovent. Is it normal for a lid to start to deteriorate like this? The newer versions of my kiln are made with the hydraulic lid lifter, which I assume lifts it more evenly, without the torque from supporting it on just one part. Please let me know if anyone else has had this cracking lid issue. -Dana
  3. Uneven Kiln Brick

    I am in the process of rebuilding a skutt km1227, some of the brick had been previously replaced. In building the three main sections, I noticed they were uneven, leaving gaps between the brick. The newer brick were alittle bigger/taller than the old brick. Is there a way to index these surfaces together without ordering a bunch of new brick
  4. In resourcing parts for my own kiln controllers, I have noticed a simular design shared between the bartlet v6, skutt, dynatrol control boards. I like continuity between controllers for ease of programming, but not all my kilns are made by the same manufacturers. The cost isn't so much an issue. Can I run any of these controllers on my kilns. I have Olympic2327 and skutt1027 1227 kilns so far, similar in size, I like multi zone control. I was going to just mount my controllers on the wall and run the thermocouple/power wires over to the kilns ( much like a L&L Jupiter controller). Has anyone wired these controllers with this cross compatibility in mind? And how similar is the programs on these controllers?
  5. I have a standard old school Skutt with a kiln sitter but not really old, from about 2005 or so, just not computerized. It normally runs like a champ and no issues with the elements. I belong to a large co-op but probably do 10 or so loads at home so it doesn't get heavy use as I fire most of my work at the other studio. Of course I have a show this week-end and was ready to run one last load through since I sold quite a bit at my co-op sale. For the first time my kiln tripped the breaker when I turned it to high, but not right away, about a half hour in. This is after I had it on low for an hour vented and then on medium for at least another hour with no issues. When I ran it on high it tripped the breaker after about a half hour. I re-set it and tried again and had the same issue. I didn't want to keep trying as there must be a more serious issue though I can't understand what would be causing it to trip when the temperature goes up. Anyone have any ideas? I may have to call in someone to fix if I can't figure it out myself. Thanks
  6. Hello, I am new to ceramics. I have made coil and slab pieces during high school art class, but that's it. I think I know the basics of making pieces, but I'm not sure how the whole firing process goes. I have found a used Skutt kiln for sale. Model LT-3K, three tier, new shut off tube assembly, inside 1/2 selves, on roll cart, and vents to outside for $700. Does this sound like a deal to anyone? What should I look out for when purchasing a used kiln? Also, I need all the start up tools. I think I would like to purchase a wheel to make cups, bowls, plates, mugs, and vases. Any thoughts? Thanks!
  7. I just purchased a Skutt digital pyrometer and have no idea how to install it. I have a pyrometer hole punched in my kiln jacket. I know I'm supposed to drill a hole in there but how far do I insert this 7 inch thermocoupler? If I just insert it an inch or two it will fall out. Do I keep it in all during the firing process? There are some screws and wires attached to the end of the thermocoupler. What do I do with those? Sorry I am such a dummy about this. Any help most appreciated. Please address responses as if you were speaking to to a mentally challenged 6 year old so I have a chance of understanding! Thanks so much!
  8. I have a fairly new Skutt KM822 (about 20 firings). As I was waiting for the cycle to complete yesterday, I noticed that the temperature went to 2241° before the kiln shut off. When the firing was complete I used "Review" to check the "Highest Temperature Reached" and it reported 2236°. I don't know if this is normal for this controller or something is wrong or it can be accounted for as heat work instead of temperature. I emailed Skutt about this yesterday morning, but haven't received any reply yet. Anyone else out there have any ideas about this?
  9. What Is This? Is This Mold?

    Hi! I just came across this wonderful forum page and hopefully someone here can help me out! I recently bought a used kiln but did not have a proper space for it, so I kept it in safe storage for a while. Ive finally built an outside space for it, but unfortunately it had to be left outside covered with a tarp for a few days until the electrician came. Naturally it decided to rain for the entire week, so I'm afraid the tarp didn't fully hold up to its potential. Being that I got the kiln a while ago, I can't remember if the underside of the lid always looked like this. I was wondering what do you think this dark ring looks like? I think it looks like it could be mold, but am not fully sure. Do you think, because of the condensation from the rain, mold started to grow on the underside of the lid? Is there anyways of removing this potential mold by burning it off or scraping it? Hope someone here can help! -G
  10. I've been looking to buy a kiln, and keeping my eye on craigslist for either a Skutt or L&L around 5 cu.ft. This weekend, a 20 year old Skutt KM-1018 for $400 popped up. Since I've never owned a kiln before, I'm turning to this great forum to get some feedback as to whether this would be a good purchase.
  11. Im on the market for a good wheel. i have used the Shimpo vl whisper and love it. i was wondering because ill probably start doing larger pots so i dont want torque to mess things up. im looking at a shimpo vl whiper and rk whiper ( http://www.bennettpottery.com/pdfs/2013/P33-35.pdf ) and a skutt prodigy ( http://www.theceramicshop.com/store/product/2807/Skutt-Prodigy-Pottery-Wheel/?gclid=CjwKEAjwsvmvBRCT5ozK-dmY7D4SJACyIoJmOZsGHBUNKvAMehqsykzyBtfyBKliX2gd3ndAwkik0xoCi0rw_wcB )
  12. I have a big sale coming up this weekend and I put the last bisque load in yesterday afternoon. I come into the studio today to find the kiln reading Error 1. This is a Skutt kiln model km-1227 firing a bisque load to cone 04. This error is about the ramping up rate being less than 12 degrees per hour. Possible causes include large load which isn't the case, and issues with either the relays, elements, or voltage. Normally, I would just call the kiln repair man, but he was here in July fixing this kiln. The issue then was the electrical plug. It had some discoloration around one of the prongs, and he re-wired and replaced the whole plug section. I also had an electrician come out and check the wall wiring and outlet to make sure the problem was isolated in the kiln plug, which it was. The wall wiring is fine. The kiln has been running about twice a week since the repair just fine. The other issue is that our power had been out all morning before I turned the kiln on. Questions: 1) would a power outage cause the kiln to sense low voltage? 2) do you think the issue is with the wiring or is it just ANOTHER issue with the same kiln that happened to pop up right after the first issue? 3) Am I correct in assuming trying to re-run the kiln will result in the same error or create a bigger problem? Most importantly: 4) Will the load be underfired and need to be fired again? Or do you think it's okay to glaze? I have no idea what temp it was at when the error occured and it's still too hot to open and look at. My other kiln is doing glaze loads all week and if I need to re-fire I will not get this entire kiln load done in time for the sale. Thanks!!!
  13. Hi everyone, I am a new middle school art teacher and am interested in having my kids work with clay. I throw and handbuild but have never fired a kiln myself before. I've only loaded/unloaded them. The art room that I inherited in August has a Skutt electric kiln and its model is KS 1027. My predecessor left me a note prior to the start of school saying: "The kiln works fine but during construction a few years ago there was some damage on the side that resulted in a lost knob. I just use one of the other knobs to turn the kiln up or down. It is a makeshift way of doing it but it works fine. You just have to keep track of how you turn the knob." I accessed the PDF manual for this specific kiln and only felt even more confused. Below, you'll find a photo of the red box that is on the front of the kiln. http://oi58.tinypic.com/2n6avj5.jpg The kiln says it fires to cone 6 which is perfect and I intended to bisque fire at cone 06. I'm just not sure how to proceed as I have never even attempted to fire a kiln! Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! C
  14. Ever wonder how much it costs to fire your electric kiln? It is probably less expensive than you think. Check out the New Potter's Page on the Skutt website for a formula and "fudge factor" description. http://skutt.com/potter/faqs/
  15. Okay I wasn't going to pester everyone with this question but I would really like to hear from someone that has either of these pottery wheels. My husband has informed me he is going to get me a pottery wheel for Christmas. He looked at me when he made this statement as if I already had a model picked out waiting to ship. LOL I have checked around locally and have not found anywhere that I can test drive either model chosen. Oh and yes I have done searches and read through all the subjects here on the forum that cover wheels. I have gotten the list down from about a dozen different wheels to the final 2: The Bailey Pro-XL http://www.baileypottery.com/potterywheels/pro-series.htm The Thomas Stuart Stevin Hill Signature Wheel http://www.skuttwheels.com/signature.html Does anyone out there have either of these wheels? If so would you mind telling me you like and dislike about them? My reasons for picking these 2 models: They both have leg extensions so I can work standing up. How hard are they to adjust? Can I easily working sitting one and a standing the next? Have a bad back need the flexibility of doing both. Both have reversing switches. I am left handed and would really like the option of working in either direction. I like the integrated splash pan. Sorry to those of you that hate splash pans! I don't want the hassles of a possibly leaking pan nor can I because of my back carry heavy pans around to empty so even if the pan was removable I wouldn't be removing it a whole heck of a lot. I also don't want the mess of working with no pan whatsoever. Want a motor big enough to never have to upgrade to a stronger wheel. I know this level of motor is more than I need but the price difference between this level and the next one down is not very much so might just as well get this level. On the forum everybody seems to like both of these companies. It says a lot when working potters say they like or use a particular brand or model. Now I know the Bailey is much cheaper than the Thomas Stuart so is it worth going that extra stretch to get the TS? If I get the TS I would have to cut back on the extras I would be able to get like the ST-1 potters stool, bats, shelves, etc. Again thank you all so much for your input! Terry
  16. Has anyone found a suitable replacement motor for Skutt's Envirovent 2? I realize Skutt sells replacements, but was hoping for something less expensive and easily swapped with the old motor. Thanks! Regards, No Draft
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