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Found 179 results

  1. Dear everyone, I am quite new to a slip casting technique. Have made several plaster molds for casting porcelain. And had some success, but recently I have noticed that some of the greenware gets tiny pinholes and then, (because some cups doesnt have it) there are SOMETIMES also pinholes on the glaze. If i got it right, those tiny pinholes are the result of air bubbles or pieces of dust in the casting slip, right? But i wonder, do those pinholes influence the glaze? I am a bit confused, because some of the porcelain cups are not having those pinholes on the glaze and some do have. The thing is that the kiln in the studio where i used to fire my work is very old, and as a kiln technician said, it fires hire than it should and moreover fires unevenly. I wonder if this could be the reason for the pinholes on the glaze surface? Or maybe pinholes on the greenware? Or both? Do you have any ideas? Or similar experience? Thank you in advance!!
  2. Hello folks! I am a porcelain painter in Brazil! I work with china paint for 25 years... This week I lost seven plates in my kiln. Six at a time (Second firing) and another one in another time (fist firing) ... have lost some, rarely, very uncomon one piece or 2 but at this time I am very anxious because is the There have been losses of dishes a few times but so this is the first time ...I'm scared because it's a big order, the biggest one I've ever taken and this has never happened to me ...What could have been?Exaggerated load of the oven? I've done other burns like this and there's never been a problem ...Concentration of the pieces arranged in the same way in the oven?They were on separate shelves ... two on each shelf. Some broke that one that was in front and the others in the background.I changed the batch and then burned the other dishes without shelves and with less load and yet lost one more.I do not use level ... I burn straight as I have always done my whole life and I never had problems ....Can anyone give me a hint of what might be going on?Today I'm doing another burn and I used it this time ... but I'm scared to death ... The photo of the bad firing is bellow! Thank you if anyone has the knowledge to help me ...
  3. FRANZ Rising Star Project is a scholarship project held by the top porcelain brand in Taiwan – FRANZ Collection Inc. https://www.franzcollection.com.tw/en The aim of the project is to ease students’ financial burden, due to the high expenses for making their artworks and pursuing their porcelain design dreams. 100 artworks would be chosen and we would reimburse USD$ 1,000 each for their outstanding performance and hard work, as our token of appreciation. Qualifications: 1. The applicant must be a current student studying in 2018 or a new 2018 graduate. 2. The artwork itself must contain more than 50% of porcelain/ceramic. Call for Entry: 6/1 - 8/31 Discover more about FRANZ Rising Star Project : https://bit.ly/2O5WvWd Facebook: @RisingStarProject Contact: info@franzproject.com
  4. Not sure if this is the right place for this. If it is, then admins can whoosh wherever is best. I have been using a dark clay body, which I love, but have a bit of fatigue in working with the dark color....I need to work with lighter colors a bit, even if I work in two different clays. I have done some small stuff with Coleman's porcelain and it was okay. I have tried Dave's and fought with it the whole time. I would like to find a nice porcelain that works for me. I am looking for some reviews of porcelain or thoughts on various clay body. I do some mild altering of thrown forms, and deep sgraffito. I also like to do taller forms, but realize that may be more challenging with porcelain. Any thoughts?
  5. I have a bucket of old porcelain casting slip that I made a couple of years ago, and I'm wondering if I can reconstitute it. It's pretty chunky, it was originally deflocculated with Darvan 811. Can I get it back to a proper consistency for casting? Should I add more Darvan? Also, does Darvan expire?
  6. Hi - I am using porcelain for the first time, and while I knew it was persnickety, I am having an unexpected problem: it keeps breaking while I'm glazing. While one pot was a very thin (too thin probably) vase, I have had multiple cup handles break in the middle or away from their attachment site. The handles were not pulled - they were coils that I smoothed with a sponge, so I wondered if maybe the clay was not compressed enough? The handles were relatively small but the cup was small and thin, too, so I don't think that is the problem. It is a cone 10 Narra porcelain, and they were bisqued to cone 06. They seemed very stone-like and sturdy, no visible cracks, so the breaks were a big surprise. I'm getting really frustrated...any ideas would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Anita
  7. Hello, I am trying to build ceramic baskets using extremely fine coils of porcelain, and wanted to try making porcelain paper clay so that I can work as fine as I would like to. I am wondering where I can find the best recipe to make it, and what paper pulp I should use. Would it also be beneficial for me to add porcelain grog/molochite to the mix? Many thanks!
  8. Hi all Have just flipped through the last 20 forum pages (eyes hurt!) looking for a PDF paper some very clever soul once posted last year on making your own ceramic tape sheets of porcelain, a 'homemade' version of Keraflex sheets......of course cannot find it! Have used the Search option with several combinations of words but still no luck! The primary binder was PVA glue that gave the thin translucent porcelain its plastic flexibility but with a bit of water would soften the glue base allowing complex shapes to be formed from the sheets. Much, much cheaper than buying Keraflex no matter how wonderful it is. There was a very specific way of making the slip formula and handling the sheets in drying so am looking for that PDF.....does anyone remember the post?....have the PDF on file?...have another recipie I could use? Help ........! Irene
  9. Marcia Selsor

    Online courses

    A series of online courses for 2018 offered through Teachinart.com Teachers : Nan Rothwell, Antoinette Badenhorst, Marcia Selsor, David Voorhees and soon Paul Lewing and Connie Christenson http://teachinart.com/index.html
  10. LeeU

    Detail "Emerging"

    From the album: LeeU Hidden Mask Series

    This piece was fired in the anagama kiln at the Sharon Art Center in NH.
  11. From the album: LeeU Hidden Mask Series

    This piece was fired in the anagama kiln at the Sharon Art Center in NH. It is porcelain with a celedon glaze on the facial planes and a temmoku on the stamped area. The orange on the right side is on unglazed clay and is an attribute of the firing.
  12. yappystudent

    Dante makes a small impression

    From the album: WIPs

    More WIP. Some molds I made along with some random objects used for impressions, including a cameo of Dante. -The cup in the upper left is not my work btw.
  13. yappystudent

    WIP phase2_Utilitarian Vessels

    From the album: WIPs

    Just excited because of the pinch pot mug body I managed to make without too much trouble. Archiving some prototypes in progress.
  14. From the album: LeeU Hidden Mask Series

    This piece followed a friend's suicide.
  15. Hi, I have a question regarding mixing of large quantities of porcelain into colour. Like 10 kg of each colour. Would you recommend a pug mill for doing this job?
  16. Hi everyone I am a currently teaching myself to work with porcelain. I am about to take a general ceramic course soon, but there are still a lot of specific techniques involved in making small ceramic pieces, that I want to learn. I am making necklace beads and earrings and I have a few questions regarding finishing techniques: - Do you sand or polish greenware, or just use a wet sponge or paint brush to smooth little rough areas? Some of my pieces are really small and have angles so I would need something kind of small, pointy to get to some of the corners. Any tools that you can recommend? The pieces are fairly smooth already, but there are some details on the surface that I would like to smooth, specially in the joins. Any jewellery/small piece makers out there that can give me some advice? Thanks!
  17. I've been using Elaine's Cone 6 porcelain from Sheffield for a few years now, and I love it. I love the feel of it on my hands, I love the way it takes glazes, and overall I've been really happy with it. But over the past, say, 9 months, I've been having new problems with attachments: handles and other attachments are cracking even when I dry super-slow. Does anyone else have experience with this? Any suggestions? I don't want to switch clays, but I'm getting frustrated. Thanks!
  18. Hello! I hope someone with more experience out there can help me! I am making a wall hanging piece that is essentially a collage of flowers within a round frame, probably around 18 by 24 inches. I am in need of advice on the logistics of this project. I am unsure if it would be more effective to make a large slab and attach the flowers to it before firing (this option scares me!) or if I should divide the overall piece into 4 quadrants and arrange the flowers so when the pieces are put together on the wall- you cant see the seam. The other approach I was thinking of would be making individual flowers, firing them and then adhering them to a wooden backing. Lots of options and things to think about. I will be using cone 5-6 Leguna Frost Porcelain. I attached a photo shopped image for reference.. Thanks! Audrey
  19. glazenerd

    C11 Porc.

    From the album: Crystalline Glaze / Tile

    New cone 11 porcelain body, with crystalline glaze. Only given 30 minute soak time.

    © TJA 2017

  20. Hi Guys, I am not sure if this is the right place to post this, but I would like to share this interview with you. I will be teaching porcelain in Europe again in 2018. This video is a glimpse of the fantastic opportunity I had in the summer of 2016. I taught in 6 different countries. This video was made in Slovenia
  21. porcelainbyAntoinette

    Online Workshops

    The next series of online classes are posted on TeachinArt Instructors to look for is Marcia Selsor that is pushing forward with discovery in Alternative Firing. David Voorhees is giving tips about successful throwing of porcelain. Connie Christensen makes a tea set; tray and all and later this year we will add her shino expertise to this school. Nan Rothwell is the latest addition and we are very excited to add her stoneware throwing class. Antoinette Badenhorst added 4 classes in porcelain from Understanding porcelain to making projects in hand building to wheel throwing. Her pinching teapots for the complete beginner is very popular and the pinching porcelain teapots will be available late fall to early winter. An introduction to understanding glazes will also follow later this year. Instructors to look forward to is Paul Lewing, Curtis Benzle and Marie Gibbons. Each one bringing their specialty to TeachinArt.
  22. I have been having an issue with the bottoms of my pots getting big chips out of them during a glaze firing. The chipped parts are not really stuck the the kiln shelf, they brush off easily, so I don't think it's a glazing issue. Normally I dip glaze pots with clear and wipe off the bottom with a sponge. I wonder if a little residual glaze is still there and sticking? This is happening with my cone 6 porcelain (standard 365) and a black stoneware clay. Both have a high shrink rate. I do use kiln wash. Do I need to apply kiln wash for every firing? It seems like that must be the issue but on some shelves the wash is getting so thick that it flakes off. Should I be removing the excess and re applying fresh kiln wash?
  23. Hi everyone, Hope you all have had a good holiday weekend. I have a quick question regarding warppaged and drying of porcelain slip casting. I have a couple of plate moulds and I would like to cast using porcelain. Does porcelain slip warp? Should I follow the same rules for plates regarding drying slowly and upside down? Thanks. Enjoy the rest of the day. Andrea
  24. Hi everybody, This is my first post here, nice to meet you all. I have a question about some result of fired colored porcelain. I am making some unglazed porcelain objects, with the goal of having a very matte finish. Now I have made a test with porcelain colored with a black stain, I have added 4 % to the slip. The stain is based on Co-Fe-Cr, it's standard stain I purchased at a ceramic supplier, the same goes for the slip. What I did: First did a bisque fire (electric kiln) until 950 degree Celsius (1742 degrees Fahrenheit) I removed the objects and finished them (sanding) to a more smooth finish In the kiln again, fired until 1230 degree Celsius (2246 degrees Fahrenheit) The result is a matte looking porcelain, but it has some unwanted glossy spots on the surface (see attached photos). I do not understand why this is happening. Maybe somebody has an idea what could be the cause of this? Thank you in advance. greetings, Patrick Hartog
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