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Found 4 results

  1. L&l Vs Skutt

    I am looking into buying a new kiln and have narrowed it down to two models that can work for my purposes, The Easy-Fire 23s by L&L or the Skutt KM1018. Both are the same price with the accompanying furniture kits. Both would be supplied with their standard model controllers. Dyna-trol vs Kilnmaster. I have a 60amp breaker and my electrician brother is wiring a new outlet for me (the old kiln was hardwired). At first I thought the L&L was a shoe-in because of the element holders but now I see that Skutt has their own rebuttal to this claiming that the heat distribution in their kilns is better because it isn't limited by the kiln element holders https://skutt.com/features/pdf/L%20_L%20response.pdf. I really am not sure what to think. I realize that some of it is simply subjective but not being able to actually experience these models first-hand I am at the mercy of the oh-so-fickle internet. Are there more linear feet of coils in a Skutt? Are the element holders of an L&L a help or a hinderance? are there other glaring differences I should know about? I would appreciate any insights potters here may have regarding these two models, especially those who have experienced both manufacturers' (pref recent) products. Thank you.
  2. Hi There, I have an e23T L&L kiln. I have 1/4" holes in the bottom of the kiln. There are 2. I've been having trouble with bloating and pin holes during glazing. A colleague suggested I might need to drill a couple of holes in the lid to help with the air circulation. I read in the L&L manual not to add more holes. How can I tell if I need more holes or not? Thanks!
  3. So I went out to see the temp on my kiln this morning after last nights firing and the panel had E-2 on it. I looked up E-2 on hotkilns.com (http://hotkilns.com/how-fix-e-2-or-err2) It says it can only happen on a down ramp or in a hold. I haven't been able to open the kiln yet (still cooling), but it appears the error happened in the last phases of my cooling schedule I guess, cause the temp when I hit enter said 1792F, and the time was over 9 hours 20 something minutes. My normal schedule takes about 9 hours 50 minutes. My kiln is set to hold at 1742F and according to this L&L page(http://www.hotkilns.com/error-codes) for E-2: Kiln temperature 50°F above hold temperature (18 seconds). If this a cooling segment, try using a cooling rate of 400°F or 500°F rather than one that is faster. Loose and overheated TC connections/ wires or old thermocouples can cause this too. Sometimes happens on an empty kiln during a first test firing. It was 50F over my hold schedule. My cooling rate to 1742F was 9999, because I thought that meant it can cool naturally as fast as it wants. I have ran this schedule before many times and never had this error. One of the causes listed on L&L was uneven loading of the kiln. This kiln was loaded pretty uneven. I didn't have anything on the top portion of the kiln and the bottom and middle was loaded. I was glazing and planning on loading the whole thing. I was loading and glazing as I went and it got dark and dinner was done so I just filled it half way. Maybe this was the problem? The top TC had nothing on that level. Err2 usually happens on a down-ramp, often because of how the kiln cools naturally with the load placed as it is in the kiln- one of the TC readings is not cooling off as fast as the others, and when the coolest TC reaches the set point, Err2 can happen. Should I just fire again and see if it E-2's again or should I do the entire inspection that L&L has listed on that page above. My kiln has 145 firings on the elements, rougly half of those are bisque, so I assume my elements had nothing to do with this as the error pages don't mention them. Thoughts?
  4. Hello all, I can't tell you how much help you've been - I've stalked these forums for quite some time. I'm hoping you can help me out with some advice about transporting a kiln I just purchased. I happened across an L&L JD230 that I couldn't pass up and I need to transport it over 200 miles to get it back home. It comes apart in 3 pieces. I've read and read about moving kilns but I am curious if anyone has tried moving a kiln like this without putting it back together during transport. I will be using a truck to move it and I wondered about pulling each section apart and protecting each one individually. The sections could lay next to each other without anything on top, with a buffer so they wouldn't knock together. I guess I'm concerned about the height of the kiln in the back of the truck if we transported it assembled and the possibility it could fall over. I know the brick is the most fragile part of the kiln and I'll do whatever is needed to protect it. Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to give! I'm so super excited to play with my new kiln!
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