Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Kilns'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Ceramic Arts Daily Forums
    • Forum FAQ & Help Topics
    • Studio Operations and Making Work
    • Clay and Glaze Chemistry
    • Equipment Use and Repair
    • Business, Marketing, and Accounting
    • Educational Approaches and Resources
    • Aesthetic Approaches and Philosophy
    • Int'l Ceramic Artists Network (ICAN) Operations and Benefits
    • Ceramic Events of Interest

Found 31 results

  1. L&l Vs Skutt

    I am looking into buying a new kiln and have narrowed it down to two models that can work for my purposes, The Easy-Fire 23s by L&L or the Skutt KM1018. Both are the same price with the accompanying furniture kits. Both would be supplied with their standard model controllers. Dyna-trol vs Kilnmaster. I have a 60amp breaker and my electrician brother is wiring a new outlet for me (the old kiln was hardwired). At first I thought the L&L was a shoe-in because of the element holders but now I see that Skutt has their own rebuttal to this claiming that the heat distribution in their kilns is better because it isn't limited by the kiln element holders https://skutt.com/features/pdf/L%20_L%20response.pdf. I really am not sure what to think. I realize that some of it is simply subjective but not being able to actually experience these models first-hand I am at the mercy of the oh-so-fickle internet. Are there more linear feet of coils in a Skutt? Are the element holders of an L&L a help or a hinderance? are there other glaring differences I should know about? I would appreciate any insights potters here may have regarding these two models, especially those who have experienced both manufacturers' (pref recent) products. Thank you.
  2. I have a Skutt KM822 I have been firing since I bought it new in March 2013. I fire to cone 6 in it. Lately I have noticed a change in when the relays "click." Let me preface by saying the firing I did last week I got error code 1. Kiln stalled out at 2177. I fire to 2210 with a 10 min hold. It was a very hot day when I did this firing, was mid afternoon when the error code 1 came on. I have multiple fans going to move air around in my kiln shed. I did diagnostic test and for amp, voltage. All OK. I also did a test fire of the kiln to 1100 with a 30 min hold and checked every peephole to see if elements all on. They were and I heard relays clicking the entire firing. OK..here is the issue. I just completed another cone 6 firing. I do ramp/hold program. Modified from one I saw online here in this forum. All are degrees Fahrenheit 150 to 250 degrees no hold 400 to 1900 no hold 130 to 2210 Hold 10-13 min. This firing I heard the relays clicking at the beginning. When I checked at 1700 degress no clicking but the temp rising. Checked again at 1923 and I hear clicking relays. Checked again at 2127 no relays sounds but the temp rising. I didn't hear the relays click again until I was in the hold at the end. The temp during the hold rose to 2217 and then the relays began clicking and the temp dropped to 2210. I have fired a manual Skutt for decades, so digital is foreign to me still. I will probably call Skutt this week, but curious if this sounds normal or not to those of you who have more digital firing experience than I do. Appreciate any insight!
  3. I have a new-ish L&L E23T kiln with 3" brick; one of the reasons I chose it was its ability to fire to cone 10. Now it seems that I might want to actually start to do that once in a while—I will mostly use it for bisque and cone 5/6. The motivation to do this is that since I left my last membership studio, I had a small load of cone 10 work gas fired at a friends studio, where I can also use her glazes. Despite the very reasonable $.05 per cu. inch cost, this load cost me $72—more than what two full kiln loads would cost in my electric kiln, and almost double what the friend said it cost in gas for one firing in her kiln! Obviously, that is not sustainable. I know I can't achieve the things I could with cone 10 reduction, but I will limit the firings to what will be happy in oxidation—matte and gloss white, matte black, crawl glaze, and Heino and/or Laguna turquoise. Any advice or words of wisdom about cone 10 electric firing? I'm very new to doing my own firing. I've included a pic of the spectacular Heino glaze from that last gas firing mentioned above; if I could anything close to this in electric oxidation I'd be a very happy potter!
  4. Hi - I was doing a glaze fire to cone 5 last night, and due to a dumb mistake on my part, the kiln shut off an hour too early. My question is this: can I save these pots by refiring them to the correct temperature? Can I do this without reglazing them? Is it even worth it? Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
  5. I am looking for tips on where to sell a large kiln. Craigslist seems good for kilns you can pack into the back of an SUV but I never see kilns of this size for sale (at least not in the Atlanta area). Are there any sites that cater to professional potters I should post to? This is the kiln, but mine is older and does not have a controller, it just uses a kiln sitter. http://www.sheffield-pottery.com/FL-20-FRONT-LOADING-OLYMPIC-KILN-p/olfl20.htm
  6. From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A wood fired climbing kiln that was fired in the Longwood Avenue section of Brookline (part of Boston) for many years. Afterburners on the chimney controlled the smoke outside the kiln building.

    © john baymore -all rigthts reserved

  7. Crossdraft Propane Fired Gas Kiln

    From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A small propane fired sprung catenary arch crossdraft kiln.

    © John baymore -all rights reserved

  8. From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A natural gas fired downdraft soda kiln constructed at a workshop I gave at the Harvard University Ceramics Program.

    © john baymore -all rights reserved

  9. From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A small Bizen-style climbing kiln.

    © John Baymore -all rights reserved

  10. From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A propane fired gas kiln with a hinged door constructed at the Silvermine Art School in CT.

    © John Baymore -all rights reserved

  11. Crossdraft Propane Fired Gas Kiln 1977

    From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A crossdraft propane fired gas kiln.

    © John Baymore -all rights reserved

  12. 40 Cubic Foot Gas Kiln Plan Example

    From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    And example of one page of gas kiln plans.

    © john baymore -all rights reserved

  13. From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A propane gas fired car kiln built in a workshop held in Virginia.

    © John Baymore -all rights reserved

  14. From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A propane gas fired car kiln built in a workshop held in Virginia.

    © John Baymore -all rights reserved

  15. From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A rear-fired natural gas downdraft kiln.

    © John Baymore - all rights reserved

  16. Noborigama At River Bend Pottery -1980

    From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    The five chamber noborigama located at River Bend Pottery constructed 1980.

    © 2010 John Baymore -all rights reserved

  17. From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A kiln building workshop I ran for the NH Potters Guild for building a combination wood fired and also gas fired crossdraft kiln. Here, the kiln is being built in the early stages.

    © John Baymore - all rights reserved

  18. From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A large 'hybrid' design of a Japanese anagama and a US southestern groundhog kiln concept built in Japan.

    © 2009 J. Baymore - all rights reserved

  19. From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A large 'hybrid' design of a Japanese anagama and a US southestern groundhog kiln concept built in Japan. (Just behind it in the background of the image is a large X type crossdraft kiln built by Fred Olsen.)

    © 2009 J. Baymore - all rights reserved

  20. Okay, so I really pulled a goofy one this last firing. Had everything in glaze load, loaded up water smoked a bit to keep morning made cone pack from blowing up and to allow the recently glazed pots to dry up. It comes to 12 midnight, and decision time. I know it won't be anywhere near ready til early morning if I fie it to all switches(3) on ten, probably 5 am. I decided to put the bottom on 10, Mid to 9, and the top to 7. All this figuring to fire a little on all at 10 when I got up at 7. Next morning 7 out to the kiln, cone 5, 6, and 7 are down. Can't really tell how bad, but glow is not white still yellow orange. 24 hours later, I unload and find that one teapot lid is glued on, another lid that did not get fired on the pot is glued to the shelf, but other than some darker earthier colors, all is good. Definitely a potentially bad situation came in OK, Lucky me! This got me to thinking about my cone packs, and how I am the last of a really gone breed. Still firing with cone packs in an electric kiln. Got me also to thinking that maybe someone would like to see what my cone pack looks like. You can see the standard fire I do in the middle, the one on the right is Wednesday nights, and the one on the left is one I made at the same time as Wednesday for the next load. best, Pres
  21. Hi, I'm looking for a used kiln. Hopefully a Skutt or an L&L. I'm looking for a programmable one that will fire to cone 10, although I plan to fire to cone 5. (It's nice to have the option.) My question is, what should I look for when I actually get to see one in person? What am I looking for concerning the elements or control panels? Is there a way to test it without doing a full firing? Thanks!
  22. Hi: I just finished a three week course for ceramic sculpting in Chicago. I'm back in L.A. and would like to start sculpting with these new basic skills. What I'd like to find out (and I posted on here because I didn't see anything that looked like general info) is to rent space in a kiln to fire my pieces. I live in West Los Angeles and looked for a community kiln that might offer this but haven't found anything as of yet. Any help in directing me to someone who does this would be greatly appreciated.
  23. My firing buddy. Steve, just came back from holiday in the states. He purchased one advancer kiln shelf for $300.00 Canadian from Minnesota clay. We would like to purchase about 20 more but can't afford this exorbitant cost. Where do you buy your shelves? Can we go directly to the manufacturer. There is a rumour that these shelves come from India. I have no idea where to get a cheap price. Thanks.
  24. I was loading a kiln load up today, glazing as I went, loading each piece as I usually do into the kiln when finished with it. I set of my pre waxed taller pieces aside, working on the patens(plates). I go through a series of dip glazes, sprayed and poured glazes, and some atomized on stains. I then finish the foot ring by using a damp sponge on the foot rings of the patens while on the griffin grip. Chalices are done much the same, in batches of 2 or 4 to match patens. I placed the lid on the kiln(mine is not hinged, but has two handles) leaving a little space up top for early venting. I also leave out the peep plugs on the top two layers. All kiln switches were turned to 9 o'clock which is 25% on my switches. An hour later, I have closed the lid, but leave the switches at the same position. What simple test could I use to tell when to start up the regular firing? This is for the newbies out there, and the experienced folks also. I have been noticing questions involving, shivering, spots on kiln shelves, and other things that this test could help alleviate. Answers folks?
  25. Kiln Room Ventilation?

    I am in the process of renovating a building for my studio. I am using a room in the basement for my electric kilns. There is a good sized window that is boarded up in that room. I have a kiln vent for one of my kilns, but I thought it might be beneficial to ventilate the room by installing some sort of exhaust fan in the window space. My contractor is suggesting an attic vent. This sounds like overkill and might be too noisy. Any suggestions based experience? Thanks! Elisa Stone
×