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Showing results for tags 'Kiln vent'.
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I'm making plans to build a pottery studio on my (very rural and remote) property, and am planning to buy an L&L front-loading kiln: L&L EFL2636. Three questions, before I place my order: Re: Vent. I've read on this forum that venting a kiln is not absolutely necessary if the kiln room won't have people in it while firing. But the (excellent, clear, and detailed) documentation on the L&L website says that all kilns should be vented because of the corrosive nature of the fumes inside the kiln, which shorten its life — quite a different concern than the concern for human health. My studio will have a separate kiln room, divided from the rest of the studio by a wall with a door that will be closed during firing. It will have a window that will be open in nice weather, and a gable fan that will always run during firing no matter the weather. The studio building itself is on a different part of the property from my house. What do you think? Should I buy the vent kit or not? Re: Wiring. The kiln I've chosen has two wiring options. One is to hard-wire the kiln to the fuse panel. The other is a 6-foot cord that plugs into a receptacle wired to the fuse panel. I thought I'd prefer the plug-in option so that I could buy the optional casters and move the kiln if necessary (though I don't imagine it would be moved often, or even ever). Do you see any downside to the plug-in cord option? Re: Fuse. The L&L documentation for this kiln says that a certain kind of fuse should be installed instead of a breaker because breakers are more apt to trip and ruin the firing due to the nature of the energy demands. Sounds reasonable to me, though I imagine my electrician will press to install the usual breakers and I'll have to insist. Any opinion about this? Thanks in advance for any advice. Helmsalee
I seam to be making every mistake in the book. It would be nice to have a successful firing in-between disasters. This time I had loaded the kiln for a bisque fire quite close to the lid (Not sure how far away you should stay from the lid) After warming overnight with the vent on (Kiln is vented from the bottom), I turned all to low in the morning. My kiln is an old Norman kiln with a kiln sitter and four dials on the front. Two peep holes. Shortly after I worried, maybe the pieces at the top were blocking enough air from entering through the three holes the vent installer drilled through the lid to allow air in as the vent drew air out through the bottom. So I opened the top peep hole for a bit and then decided that I should stick to the vent instructions which clearly said â€œNever open the peep holes when the vent is runningâ€. I finished the bisque firing and opened the kiln after cooling to find piles of bisque fired shards of clay. This wasnâ€™t just an air bubble that blew out, but every piece except for maybe one piece on each shelf was in crumbles. (See photos attached) UUUUggggh! I had some real favorites in this load. This is becoming a very emotionally taxing hobby I found a local ceramics studio and have contacted them to see about taking some classes. I think that would be hugely beneficial. â€‹I am going to have to be careful about vacuuming out the coils too as their were shards of clay sticking out from the coil area so I am sure there is plenty that fell down in there.
I have two kilns hooked to a vent. I am firing sometimes both kilns 4 days a week. I believe the hoses are both connected correctly (I use a damper), but would certainly not mind tips on ways to check. I am not sure now because the studio has a kiln odor and I sometimes have some smoke coming out when the wax burns off. I usually dip glaze and fire immediately. Could this be my problem. I just changed out some of the vent hoses as they eroded, so I am hoping that will help. I have been experiencing shortness of breath and coughing (especially when running) for a few years now but just assumed it was from previous years of bad studio practices. I thought that the vent and good cleaning schedule would take care of any issues I have, but it is not. Since I am doing production, I fire a mostly full kiln loads of copper glazed- green - pots and of course, bisque. Could this be sulfuric acid? I do see a good amount of rusting on equipment, but I am also near the coast and it gets very humid here. I would like to make my work environment as safe as possible. I also wear a P100 respirator in the studio but would love to be able to work unencumbered by the mask. Any help you can give me would be great!
I built a kiln vent. For ease of construction I am using the bottom peep hole for exhaust instead of drilling holes in the bottom of the kiln. I think the peep hole was to big on its own. I took a hollow peep plug and drilled four holes through the end tip. The kiln vents through these. The end of the vent, 6" expandable aluminum, fits snugly against the side of the kiln. It is held in place with wire from the two plugs above it. This all works great. No odor at all during firing. Prior to the using the vent my kiln always fired one cone hotter on the top shelf than the bottom. I was thinking the vent would help even out this difference. It hasn't. After two bisque firings, the top shelf is still one cone hotter than the bottom. I am glaze firing today. I have several glazes that are cone 5 only. They will blister at cone 6. So I make sure this glaze is in the bottom shelf only. I put my more flexible glazes in the middle and top. Question: Could this temp difference simple be an element issue? I have never had to change my elements. At this time I am OK with the temp difference due to the different glaze temps. But in the future what can I do the get more even temps. I want to try some controlled cooling firings. I am worried how these will turn out. I appreciate any help offered.