Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Grog'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Ceramic Arts Daily Forums
    • Forum FAQ & Terms of Use
    • Studio Operations and Making Work
    • Clay and Glaze Chemistry
    • Equipment Use and Repair
    • Business, Marketing, and Accounting
    • Educational Approaches and Resources
    • Aesthetic Approaches and Philosophy
    • Int'l Ceramic Artists Network (ICAN) Operations and Benefits
    • Ceramic Events of Interest
    • Community Marketplace – Buy/Sell/Trade/Free

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 7 results

  1. While looking into shrinkage rates and cracks and plasticity I found a picture I immediately recognised. This picture exactly matches something I've encountered. I thought maybe it was the result of some 60 mesh silica sand I was trying but now I suspect not. As someone looking for any clue along the way this small tidbit helps a bit. Thanks Tony and anyone else at Digitalfire.
  2. Dear all This is my first post here, having been a lurking reader for a while. I would like to suspend some coarse particulates in a porcelain slip. I am intrigued by the coarse feldspar inclusions in some Japanese wood fired pottery. I have tried adding coarse inclusions in a porcelain body, which fired well but the large chunks got in the way of my preferred style of handbuilding and surforming the surface. I now want to try to add these particulates in a porcelain slip that I can apply to my pots by dipping. Does anyone have any tricks on how to suspend larger particulates in a clay slip, eg grog or coarse inclusions? Do grogged slips exist? I was thinking that perhaps adding bentonite could help due to its thixotropy, but I am not sure. Any help from this very helpful forum in my self-learning endeavors would be much appreciated Best Joris The Netherlands
  3. Hello! I have been having trouble tracking down a suitable clay body for my kurinuki pieces. I had issues with 'S' cracks using the stoneware provided by the ceramic department, and I switched to HELIOS porcelain for a brief stint, but the lack of grog didn't appeal to me (I'm obsessed with texture). I mostly wish to do atmospheric firings, although I'm stuck with electric for the near future until I can track down a wood kiln near Austin. My main question is, would a sculpture clay body be suitable for carving to make my chawans, yunomis, etc? I'm thinking that with the higher grolleg content, I'll have less cracking issues, as well as added texture to the surfaces. I don't know of anyone that uses sculpture clay for tableware, though. I tried Standard 710 w/grog, hoping that the added grog would rough up the surface, but it was negligible. I do heavy carving on my kurinuki pieces, and I really want that rough texture showing through the final piece. Here are examples of my texture I'm chasing.
  4. Guest

    ClayAlteration ForGlazeNerd

    From the album: Images For Misc. Posts

    This photo is for GlazeNerd.......... showing how I "ruin" a nice commercial clay body for woodfiring.
  5. Hi everyone, I've been throwing for a little while now and bought a wheel to keep practicing. I'm working towards a raku fire next month so have been working with a fine grogged raku clay. I can't seem to centre more than 550g of clay on my wheel without it slipping from the center of the wheel. I'm using particle board bats. Not sure if i'm using too much/not enough water, wheel is too slow. Any help to prevent slipping when centering would be great. Thanks
  6. Originally published in February 2019 issue of Ceramics Monthly, pages 66,67, & 68. http://www.ceramicsmonthly.org . Copyright, The American Ceramic Society. Reprinted with permission." techno File section: Clay Body Shopping Nerd
  7. I'm wondering if I should expect to encounter any problems in the firing or drying stage if, with the exact same base body, I use a very highly grogged core but use an ungrogged version of the same body for, say, the last eigth to quarter of an inch of the form. I can't think of any plausible reason why it wouldn't work if dried patiently, but being a sculptor, and not a potter, I thought it was worth asking those who know.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.