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Found 18 results

  1. Hi, After my graduation I bought a new gas kiln, Rohde TG80 top loading gas kiln downdraft. I have done one test firing but got a bit insecure so I wish to double check. My kiln is fired with Propane. My firing schedule was 200 C/h till 900, then went into reduction till around 1212 C/h after which I failed to keep it in reduction because i started to play to much. Top temperature wa around 1280C. Everything I fire is porcelain unglazed. The top part of the kiln seems ok reduced (not as strong as I wished), but the bottom part not and also lower in temperature. I have read quite some online information and also fired different gas kilns manually before, but not the same as this one. I read different stories about the flames from a reduction firing. Some say orange licking flame is great. But I learned before that a blueish rocket like flame with a bit of orange from the peephole was good as well. I'm a bit confused now. I would like to ask if anyone would like to share some tips and tricks? It would be very helpful. Thank you very much
  2. Bottom Shelf

    From the album Gas Kiln

    I put these shelves in with some extra space so the flames can flow through a bit easier.
  3. Burner Inlet Ports

    From the album Gas Kiln

    So I am curious if I need to place something over the inlet flues to redirect the flow of the flame so it doesn't just shoot straight up. Anyone know?
  4. Hello there, my partner and I are considering the challenging undertaking of a ceramics workshop at the next Burning Seed festival (Australia's Burning Man) in September, so quite a bit of research and development time. However, if this is an absolutely impossible task in your esteemed and learned opinions, it would be better to pull the plug early on. It will be held outdoors (under shelter), there will be no electricity available and the festival lasts 6 days. Budget isn't huge and conventional small gas kilns aren't easily available in Australia, so I've been considering the ceramic fibre flat pack gas kiln designs. At this point, I believe my biggest challenge is the timeframe - I feel like delivering a glazed piece on day 6 is likely unlikely, particularly considering the lack of drying time and the unpredictability of being exposed to the elements. Though if there is any way I could incorporate a candling feature into the flat pack design, perhaps this issue could be mitigated. Here are my thoughts on a timeframe: Day 1 & 2: Handbuilding workshop - earthenware clay, cups Day 3: Drying Day 4: Candling and bisque Day 5: Glazing and glaze firing Day 6: Finished! So my questions are: -Impossible? Yay or nay? -Is candling possible in the flat pack gas kilns? Perhaps with a smaller, less powerful torch attached? -Are there any better ways you think this could be achieved? -Do you have any other general advice? Thanks wonderful people, this forum is an absolute wealth of information and you're all great. If all else fails I'll just take some airdry clay and be done with it :-P
  5. Crossdraft Propane Fired Gas Kiln

    From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A small propane fired sprung catenary arch crossdraft kiln.

    © John baymore -all rights reserved

  6. From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A natural gas fired downdraft soda kiln constructed at a workshop I gave at the Harvard University Ceramics Program.

    © john baymore -all rights reserved

  7. From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A propane fired gas kiln with a hinged door constructed at the Silvermine Art School in CT.

    © John Baymore -all rights reserved

  8. Crossdraft Propane Fired Gas Kiln 1977

    From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A crossdraft propane fired gas kiln.

    © John Baymore -all rights reserved

  9. 40 Cubic Foot Gas Kiln Plan Example

    From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    And example of one page of gas kiln plans.

    © john baymore -all rights reserved

  10. From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A propane gas fired car kiln built in a workshop held in Virginia.

    © John Baymore -all rights reserved

  11. From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A propane gas fired car kiln built in a workshop held in Virginia.

    © John Baymore -all rights reserved

  12. From the album Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A rear-fired natural gas downdraft kiln.

    © John Baymore - all rights reserved

  13. I just joined today so please go easy on me . . . I'm a fairly experienced student and I love cone 10 reduction. My only kiln firing education experience was very limited and over five years ago, at a well-equipped big city community college with huge kilns burning natural gas. I was a newbie just following precise instructions from the instructor, so I'm just about completely ignorant in practice. I am now 500 miles away on a small farm with the new-to-me 12 cubic ft updraft kiln all hooked up to my 250 gal propane tank. The kiln is 7 ft in height including the ~ 2' iron stand. There is also a pyramidal sheet metal hood on top, which adds another foot for a total of 8' in height. Between droughts we get RAIN here in the winter and often it's falling "horizontally" and in summer quite a strong breeze in the late afternoon. In short, my kiln needs to be in an enclosure to keep it dry and the wind away from the burners. I want to build a permanent shed around it. I have a few questions related to that: How high above the kiln vents should the metal ceiling of the shed be? What's the ideal size for an opening in the shed ceiling above the vent for a kiln this size being fired to cone 10? This opening will be covered with a rain cap so I can fire in winter, too. Will heat pretty much go straight up and out of the vent? I'm thinking the rain cap is going to get extremely hot, is that correct? How far above the kiln vents should it be? i.e. does it need to be on top of a wire "stovepipe" or something like that? Any suggestions for "room size" for the shed? I know I'll be needing to control air to fuel ratio using the vents at the top and will need some space for moving around to do that safely. Fortunately on ag zoned land few regulations seem to apply to what we do out here and we are avid about keeping brush cleared, etc. for fire safety. Also I've met a retired ceramics teacher and she is going to fire her own pieces and help out/oversee/advise once I start to actually use the kiln. Plus one of the propane company guys is interested enought to want to see it in action, so once we're firing things should be safe and sane, despite my being totally in over my head. All my best, Roberta
  14. I posted this question in another spot but maybe its own topic is better. I have an old fashioned 28 cu ft caternary arch gas fired brick kiln. I have had to rebuild parts and now I have uneven firing. I am going to cone 6 and the centre fires to that before the top or bottom does. The top and bottom ports show the cones down at 4 only while in the middle 4, 5 & 6 are completely down. I though I had enough spaces in the bag walls and the floor but perhaps not? I am pretty sure I haven't blocked anything with the shelves. The heat goes up behind the bag walls & then down - downdraft thru the floor and out to the chimney. Help!!!!
  15. Is anyone here familiar with the electric-to-gas conversion kits manufactured by Summit? The one I'm considering is the GV-18. A while back someone was clearing out their storage shed and I got an old worn-out kiln, a Lockerbie kick wheel and a venturi burner (they had been planning to make a raku kiln out of it. I'm not interested in raku, and I fear one burner will be inadequate for efficient Cone 8 firing. The GV-18 kit has two burners and a steel stand. By the time I bought another burner and fabricated a stand, I'd probably be close to the cost of the conversion kit, which is a little over 200 bucks. Any experience or opinions? (I'm aware of the drawbacks of updraft kilns.)
  16. Temps are cooling here in MN and this Fall and maybe winter, I'd like to continue to fire my gas kiln. I have an Olympic Torchbearer firing on LP and to Cone 10. I can control a slow heating up when the kiln is cold in the AM but am wondering how, after reaching temp, I go about slowing the cooling (and for how long) in a proper way so that glazes do not bubble from rapid cooling and pieces do not crack from shock. My kiln is in an enclosed shed but the only heat there is from the kiln. I don't want to damage my kiln or pottery just for a firing or 2 in the winter. On a usual warm weather firing, I can unload the kiln about 36 hours after firing is completed. I appreciate your sharing of knowledge.
  17. Kiln Building Intensive For students who want a hands-on experience to learn more about kiln design and building, this is the class for you. Master kiln builder John Baymore will lead this intensive course beginning with two evening lectures about kiln theory, design, and construction. The class then switches gears, as the students then spend two full days building a gas fired kiln in the NHIA Manchester kiln room. Bring work gloves and a respirator and prepare to get your hands dirty! Prerequisite: Basic clay skills. Limit: 10 Manchester Campus Professor John Baymore MCER077 Thu & Fri, Sep. 25 & 26 / 6 – 9 pm; Sat & Sun, Sep. 27 28 / 9 am – 6 pm 4 Days / Thu. + Fri. Amherst/Williams 204; Sat. + Sun. Amherst/Williams 001 Tuition: $176 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR QUESTIONS: Chris Archer (603) 836.2561 carcher@nhia.edu TO REGISTER FOR A CLASS: Rhiannon Mimms (603) 836.2564 CERegistration@nhia.edu LOCATIONS: Manchester Campus New Hampshire Institute of Art 148 Concord Street, Manchester, NH 03104-4858 www.nhia.
  18. This is my first gas kiln and I have had a successful test firing and bisque firing. The man who I brought it off gave me his old successful kiln log sheets so I have been working of that. I went to start a glaze firing at 7am in the morning, by 9pm at night I cone 3, 4, 5 had not melted so I called it a night and shut it off. Any suggestions?? (attached is some pics of my kiln for reference) (Internal firing space 650x650x650)
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